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bo dawg

Ark 508

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bo dawg

This is the Ark 508 loader I aquired couple weeks ago. Is this the way they all bolt up to the sub frame? Seems weak to me, plus looks like PO had to do some welding. But looks to have bend the frame a little. Its been worked hard Im sure but what has other guys done to improve this? The oil drain is on the bottom of this side as well.

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Goldnboy

I would add a small section of  the same diameter  and gauge tubing an weld or bolt to subframe for added strength  since this is already a weak spot.

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bc.gold

Arc 700.

 

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bc.gold

Take the guess work out of bucket levelling.

 

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Lee1977

A bad design of the subframe caused it to break. Need to redesign the subframe to be under the upright.  Might be better to just start over with a new subframe.

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bo dawg
6 hours ago, bcgold said:

Arc 700.

 

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Thats a whole different loader there. Bigger and Heavier.

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bo dawg

Guys I appreciate the input, but I already know how to fix and improve it. My question was is it "Ark 508" factory correct?

Plus if I add support I will block the oil drain plug thats on the bottom unless I drill and tap a plug at the side.  

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bc.gold
14 minutes ago, bo dawg said:

Guys I appreciate the input, but I already know how to fix and improve it. My question was is it "Ark 508" factory correct?

Plus if I add support I will block the oil drain plug thats on the bottom unless I drill and tap a plug at the side.  

 

 The loader appears to be factory correct, can't vouch for the sub frame which looks to be a backyard fabrication. The design of the sub frame defies the laws of engineering.

 

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Edited by bcgold

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bc.gold

Hope this answers your question.

 

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Skipper

Newer understood why there is no consistency in the way these loader setups are often put together. Often you see a strong build loader with over dimensioned uprights, connected to a flimsy subframe with a single bolt, and a small tube bashed flat in the ends as the diagonal to the low front, which is actually the key piece of kit here to transfer the load into the right places.

 

The loader it self often looks fairly OK. BUT the single bolt to the subframe is like a bicycle chain link in a motorcycle chain. Then the diagonal to the front - that thing often needs to take up pretty much all the forces you put onto that loader, including slamming the machine into something solid. If it breaks, or the small bolts break, the loader comes a lot closer to the operator. 

 

I would have made those two parts, or at least the joints of these parts, a lot stronger. 

 

Didn't mean to make this a bash against loaders. I love loaders, but when my sense of self preservation cringes toes, I can't help but speak my mind. :D:twocents-02cents:

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bc.gold
5 hours ago, bcgold said:

Plus if I add support I will block the oil drain plug thats on the bottom unless I drill and tap a plug at the side. 

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Edited by bcgold
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wallfish

My guess is the previous owner found out it bends there when the front supports aren't attached or attached correctly. With a loaded bucket the weight and force is on those angle supports to the front so a major crazy connection where you have pictured is not completely necessary. The design is so it can be removed from the tractor quickly and easier. With the front angle supports in place correctly, it's doubtful you could bend that lower connection with the original hydraulics if you tried. I would beef up the front support those angle supports go to on the front of the tractor since that is what takes all the load. :twocents-02cents:

 

IMG_2835.jpg.2ba70f5a96fcff534ffe1b7f98d65037.jpg.15aad410abcc935fb26928dcd56d5419.jpg

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953 nut

My Johnson loader has a heavier sub-frame, but the attachment point looks about the same.

2116322040_GT-14withFEL005.JPG.ecfdf472f6dc658a3094ea1e47d682ca.JPG

Edited by 953 nut
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bo dawg
4 hours ago, wallfish said:

My guess is the previous owner found out it bends there when the front supports aren't attached or attached correctly. With a loaded bucket the weight and force is on those angle supports to the front so a major crazy connection where you have pictured is not completely necessary. The design is so it can be removed from the tractor quickly and easier. With the front angle supports in place correctly, it's doubtful you could bend that lower connection with the original hydraulics if you tried. I would beef up the front support those angle supports go to on the front of the tractor since that is what takes all the load. :twocents-02cents:

 

IMG_2835.jpg.2ba70f5a96fcff534ffe1b7f98d65037.jpg.15aad410abcc935fb26928dcd56d5419.jpg

 

That makes sense! Theres been more steel welded to the ends of the brackets where your arrow points to. This thing was worked too hard at some point in its life I believe.

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bo dawg
8 hours ago, bcgold said:

Hope this answers your question.

 

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Yep looks like the same sub frame I have and attachment point. Thanks! 

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