Charbs152 254 #1 Posted October 22, 2020 (edited) Hello, I just ordered a new lift bar, 4 bushings, new blades, new nuts to hold the blades on. What else do i need to get this mechanically sound? Wheels, rollers? Bearings? Everything spins very smoothly by hand and seems tight but i feel like maybe i should just go through the entire thing over the winter. (one blade just barely scrapes against the deck which as me worried that maybe a spindle shaft is bent but i am waiting until i get new blades to really assess Are there kits available to rebuild the spindles? Any posts that document how to do it? I may even paint this at some point too.. any tips and tricks to remove the rust and prep for paint? I've never restored anything before so any tips and help is appreciated! I am a new owner of a C-175. My grandpa has had a C-160 Auto for as long as i can remember which has made me always want one. Now i finally have one and i am excited to get using it as well as learning how to rebuild each part of this machine. thanks again! this site rocks! Edited October 22, 2020 by Charbs152 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,033 #2 Posted October 22, 2020 https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=05-48ms01&quick=1&type=downloads_file Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charbs152 254 #3 Posted October 22, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, gwest_ca said: https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=05-48ms01&quick=1&type=downloads_file Garry thanks i will take a look through this stuff looks like i have most of these documents already. Any idea where to source all the parts? Would this be the correct wheel kit? Part # dont line up with the IPL... https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/mower.html#!/Wheel-Horse-Deck-Wheel-Kit-2-wheels-and-5-rollers/p/186813809/category=23725663 Also for the bearings... i see arguments to used the stock non sealed /sealed bearing combo and i see others advocate for just using 2 sealed bearings and eliminating the grease zerk... Also theres the whole thing with eliminating the woodruff key... Edited October 22, 2020 by Charbs152 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,033 #4 Posted October 22, 2020 The original 108522 wheel was replaced by 110506. 5306 is the 1-3/4" x 6" wheel bushing. This site has good prices and a flat rate shipping charge. https://www.psep1.biz/arinet.asp Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,168 #5 Posted October 22, 2020 Youre on the right track here, an annual thourough ck of the deck is just good practice. From what I can see in your pics ypirs looks pretty good (no gaping rust holes!!) As to the spindle bearings for sure give them a good check - and I am in the sealed bearing camp. Some yrs ago I had a big box store Yard Man and it had sealed bearings in the spindles and for the 20 odd yrs that I had it I think I changed them twice. So after about the 2nd time I fought that horrible, inefficient, nasty method on the horse deck, I went to sealed (when you buy them they are sealed anyway) I get them off the bay in a lot of 10, usually around $20-30. Next, at least pull the 2 belt dust covers for a close inspection under there - its notorious for getting bad rust under there - water gets in and being covered can sit there for days/weeks and just rust away. (I leave mine off) Next closely inspect the frame around all the hanger points, and the scalper wheel mount, etc for stress hair line cracks, it will most likely have at least a few - if not a bunch! Get those welded, they will spread quickly. As so happens, I am right in the middle of doing this deck inspection now on my 48". Knew the blades needed changing so while doing that I found several other problems. On The 3 curved metal pieces under the deck that direct the grass ejection, the outer ones were badly mangled, the tack welds having come loose. That is eating on me getting that corrected!! Bearings, belts, were good, but I did replace the 2 rear wheels. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chaz54 57 #6 Posted October 22, 2020 As Pacer said, take the covers off and inspect under there. I got one last year that had grease, grass, and dirt packed under the pulleys. Check to see the deck belt tensioner moves also. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charbs152 254 #7 Posted October 22, 2020 (edited) Thanks for all the tips guys. I plan on doing all this over the next 2-4 days. Edited October 22, 2020 by Charbs152 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charbs152 254 #8 Posted October 23, 2020 On 10/22/2020 at 10:24 AM, Chaz54 said: As Pacer said, take the covers off and inspect under there. I got one last year that had grease, grass, and dirt packed under the pulleys. Check to see the deck belt tensioner moves also. Belt tensioner works. I still want to rebuild it and repaint the deck this winter Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charbs152 254 #9 Posted October 23, 2020 (edited) On 10/22/2020 at 9:31 AM, pacer said: Youre on the right track here, an annual thourough ck of the deck is just good practice. From what I can see in your pics ypirs looks pretty good (no gaping rust holes!!) As to the spindle bearings for sure give them a good check - and I am in the sealed bearing camp. Some yrs ago I had a big box store Yard Man and it had sealed bearings in the spindles and for the 20 odd yrs that I had it I think I changed them twice. So after about the 2nd time I fought that horrible, inefficient, nasty method on the horse deck, I went to sealed (when you buy them they are sealed anyway) I get them off the bay in a lot of 10, usually around $20-30. Next, at least pull the 2 belt dust covers for a close inspection under there - its notorious for getting bad rust under there - water gets in and being covered can sit there for days/weeks and just rust away. (I leave mine off) Next closely inspect the frame around all the hanger points, and the scalper wheel mount, etc for stress hair line cracks, it will most likely have at least a few - if not a bunch! Get those welded, they will spread quickly. As so happens, I am right in the middle of doing this deck inspection now on my 48". Knew the blades needed changing so while doing that I found several other problems. On The 3 curved metal pieces under the deck that direct the grass ejection, the outer ones were badly mangled, the tack welds having come loose. That is eating on me getting that corrected!! Bearings, belts, were good, but I did replace the 2 rear wheels. Going to give it a good pressure washing and a good inspecting today. Doesn’t appear to have and cracks or hard abuse. So I’m hopeful it’s all good Edited October 23, 2020 by Charbs152 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
