TonyToro 1,049 #1 Posted October 21, 2020 (edited) We just put the snow blower on the C-145. It works great but needs to be lowered about an inch more. Before I investigate and poke around on how to adjust it I figured I would ask the guys that know. The tractor has hydraulic lift and lower. It raises plenty high. I was super surprised on how strong that hydraulic ram is. Any help would be appreciated. Edited October 21, 2020 by TonyToro Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,028 #2 Posted October 21, 2020 Shorten the push/lift rod. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,033 #3 Posted October 21, 2020 When this design of lift first came out there was a service bulletin issued addressing lift height. It was suggested each 1/8" of lift tube length changed the blower height 1". So it does not take much. If the height is too low add 3/4" diameter flat washers as necessary to the tube/flag on assembly. 3/4" SAE flat washers will fit the rod better than 3/4" USS. Garry 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 16,985 #4 Posted October 21, 2020 If everything is connected correctly, remove washers if there are any or the tube may need to be shortened. Also your belt tension pulleys are on wrong. The belt goes through the pulleys on the bottom side of the loop only. The top of the belt loop is the drive side and should go directly to the driven pulley of the blower 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,028 #5 Posted October 21, 2020 (edited) 36 minutes ago, wallfish said: If everything is connected correctly, remove washers if there are any or the tube may need to be shortened. Also your belt tension pulleys are on wrong. The belt goes through the pulleys on the bottom side of the loop only. The top of the belt loop is the drive side and should go directly to the driven pulley of the blower Good catch John. I should have been able to see that with these brand new eyeballs. I do see the chute rotator crank is missing. Edited October 21, 2020 by Ed Kennell 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,583 #6 Posted October 21, 2020 agree with above on the belt routing detail, another thing in the same area that is often neglected is lubrication on the 2 pulleys that drive off a spring loaded solid axel , lubrication lets the pulleys and shaft follow the spring tension , making for a stronger/easier running unit, also chain lube the #40 auger chain drive and adjust as needed. if you run the blower , and go over it with lubricant at every rust /movement point , it will move easier. jmoe , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro 1,049 #7 Posted October 22, 2020 21 hours ago, Ed Kennell said: Shorten the push/lift rod. Thank you for the advise. So just grind or cut a small piece off the tube? Sounds like I just need to take about an 1/8” off since it’s about 1” to high off the ground. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro 1,049 #8 Posted October 22, 2020 16 hours ago, gwest_ca said: When this design of lift first came out there was a service bulletin issued addressing lift height. It was suggested each 1/8" of lift tube length changed the blower height 1". So it does not take much. If the height is too low add 3/4" diameter flat washers as necessary to the tube/flag on assembly. 3/4" SAE flat washers will fit the rod better than 3/4" USS. Garry Thank you Garry for in information. Lifting I am plenty high. I was really shocked at how high the blower got lifted. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro 1,049 #9 Posted October 22, 2020 14 hours ago, wallfish said: If everything is connected correctly, remove washers if there are any or the tube may need to be shortened. Also your belt tension pulleys are on wrong. The belt goes through the pulleys on the bottom side of the loop only. The top of the belt loop is the drive side and should go directly to the driven pulley of the blower Ok Thanks. I will see if the pulleys can be repositioned. The way it is now is how I got it. I just threaded the belt through it to my engine pulley and seemed to work fine as is? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro 1,049 #11 Posted October 22, 2020 13 hours ago, Ed Kennell said: Good catch John. I should have been able to see that with these brand new eyeballs. I do see the chute rotator crank is missing. Yes I need the chute crank. That was going to be my next project. Either find one or make one. I have the crank rod rest. I still need to mount that on the tractor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 16,985 #12 Posted October 22, 2020 In that configuration of the belt it will hit the front axle when the axle tilts up. Looks like it's almost touching it now For the lift, you also want it to drop lower than the front tires as well so it can float with the terrain as you drive. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,674 #13 Posted October 22, 2020 Should look like this. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,028 #14 Posted October 22, 2020 Nice snow machine Paul. Do the Electros have the limited slip differential? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro 1,049 #15 Posted October 24, 2020 Fixed the belt on the C-145 and heading to get rid to make a chute crank. Thank you for all the expert advise. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro 1,049 #16 Posted October 24, 2020 Oh and getting a new belt!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro 1,049 #17 Posted October 26, 2020 I am in the fabrication stage of making the chute crank. Can anyone tell me the bend dimensions where the handle would be? I know it doesn’t have to be exact but I would like to be close to factory if I could. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro 1,049 #18 Posted October 26, 2020 And....Little man working on his snow machine! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,583 #19 Posted October 26, 2020 when you make that chute crank , you can die/nut thread cut an end on the top operator end, pick up a matching threaded round knob at the local hardware store for easy glove/mitten use, pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro 1,049 #20 Posted October 27, 2020 @peter lena Great idea! I’ll check Wednesday at my local Hardware store. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro 1,049 #21 Posted October 28, 2020 We worked on the snow machine some more today. I cut about 1.25” off the lift rod and it sits perfect now. I flipped the scraper bar and adjusted the skid shoes. My son sanded the chute and drum area. I’ll paint it tomorrow after I run to tractor supply and the hardware store. I also installed the chute rod. I still have to bend the handle area but need propane to make the bends ( tractor supply item) lol I was wondering if anyone knows the belt size on this blower? The belt I am planning on taking is beat up and stretched. From the research I did I found it to be a 69” belt? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro 1,049 #22 Posted October 28, 2020 Oh and to top it off...my son had the snowblower manual in his room! Lol😂 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro 1,049 #23 Posted October 28, 2020 Here is the model of the snow blower Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,033 #24 Posted October 28, 2020 7 hours ago, TonyToro said: I was wondering if anyone knows the belt size on this blower? The belt I am planning on taking is beat up and stretched. From the research I did I found it to be a 69” belt? Long frame tractors use drive belt 9750 (5L x 69" or 5/8" x 69") Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
12Horse Paladin 1,038 #25 Posted October 28, 2020 (edited) Thanks For this thread! May I ask...what are the cotter pin ( I dont know the correct name, sorry) sizes you need, where they are used, when attaching the lift arm in front to the blower and rear to the tractor (mines a c160 hydro)? Mine was missing both and the substitutes (read rigged) is not something I want to continue to use. Also, is there anything to use on the pulleys, to keep them in good shape; spinning Hoping my questions make sense... Edited October 28, 2020 by 12Horse Paladin 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites