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johnnymag3

C 160 wiring ALL

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johnnymag3

Tore out the OEM harness, it had more junctions than Petticoat...........................

 

Would like someone to point me to an actual diagram, my key does not have a ground lug, its self grouning I believe...

 

thanks as always

 

john

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ebinmaine

Johnny get into the thread linked below and keep a note of it. It has several different diagrams you can use.

 

 

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The Tuul Crib

The manuals section should have 

what you need.

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953 nut
1 hour ago, johnnymag3 said:

point me to an actual diagram,

If you can't find it here it can't be found!   Garry @gwest_ca has even color coded the diagrams.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=c-160 tractor wiring&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy&search_and_or=and

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johnnymag3

Thanks....Does anyone have a description of GAUGE of WIRE used ?  Im am going to make a new harness, color correct and gauge correct.

 

thanks:text-thankyouyellow:

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pfrederi

WH used 16ga for most things.  i use 14ga.

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rjg854

Wire everything with 14 gauge and you'll be fine

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ebinmaine
24 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

.  i use 14ga.

 

23 minutes ago, rjg854 said:

Wire everything with 14 gauge and you'll be fine

I'll third that.

 

I use 14 on everything except the battery cables of course. 

For those I use 4 gauge. 

 

The wiring I use all the way around is FULL COPPER fine stranded. NOT CCA.

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johnnymag3

14 it will be !!!

Should I run a 10-12 to the rectifier center post to the battery, or is it ok with a 14 to the key switch.....I know it carries a lot of current

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ebinmaine
2 minutes ago, johnnymag3 said:

14 it will be !!!

Should I run a 10-12 to the rectifier center post to the battery, or is it ok with a 14 to the key switch.....I know it carries a lot of current

I've been known to run 12 there but it really isn't needed. 14 is fine.

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johnnymag3

Eric, I meant a 12 from the battery to the rectifier solely...and omit it at the key

 

 

Sorry

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gwest_ca
2 minutes ago, johnnymag3 said:

14 it will be !!!

Should I run a 10-12 to the rectifier center post to the battery, or is it ok with a 14 to the key switch.....I know it carries a lot of current

What model is your tractor?

Just looked at one of the diagrams and noticed there is no fuse between the battery cable at the solenoid and the ammeter. I think it would be wise to add a heavy duty 30 amp fuse holder at the solenoid so everything is protected from catastrophic failure.

Post your thoughts and will make changes if necessary.

 

Garry

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johnnymag3

It is a C 160 with points and condenser

3 minutes ago, johnnymag3 said:

Eric, I meant a 12 from the battery to the rectifier solely...and omit it at the key

 

 

Sorry

I take that as a yes?

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, johnnymag3 said:

Eric, I meant a 12 from the battery to the rectifier solely...and omit it at the key

 

 

Sorry

Either way .. I was actually thinking of both locations. Rectifier to battery and battery to key switch.

 

I don't have access to it on my phone here but there's a chart that shows different wire gauge requirements for the amount of volts or amps going through.

 

 

1 minute ago, gwest_ca said:

What model is your tractor?

Just looked at one of the diagrams and noticed there is no fuse between the battery cable at the solenoid and the ammeter. I think it would be wise to add a heavy duty 30 amp fuse holder at the solenoid so everything is protected from catastrophic failure.

Post your thoughts and will make changes if necessary.

 

Garry

 

 

I know a lot of us are trying to bring our tractors back to a restored original condition give or take a couple major improvements like these wire gauges.

I've made no secret on how I feel about ammeters.

They have their place. Just not on any of my machines.

I switch my ammeter to a voltmeter.

 

As far as fuses go I would have to agree that adding them is a decent idea. I have fuses on my Cinnamon Horse. Don't remember what ratings I used.

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johnnymag3
21 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

What model is your tractor?

Just looked at one of the diagrams and noticed there is no fuse between the battery cable at the solenoid and the ammeter. I think it would be wise to add a heavy duty 30 amp fuse holder at the solenoid so everything is protected from catastrophic failure.

Post your thoughts and will make changes if necessary.

 

Garry

Good Point !!!!, it would never hurt to be more protected...The only fuse in that circuit without a fuse  is the Ammeter !!!     Holy smoke :huh:. The 12v runs directly through it with NO protection

 

Edited by johnnymag3
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johnnymag3

Im with Eric on this point with regards to the Ammeter.....I prefer A Voltmeter. Ground one side....12v to the other from a keyed hot side....Example, light Circuit

 

I may go that route with this tractor. Im keeping this one.....

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johnnymag3

Garry brings up a very important thought....

 

No fuse in that line is havoc for the Ammeter if there is a failure :text-thankyouyellow:

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ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, johnnymag3 said:

havoc for the Ammeter

possibly the rest of the tractor and every other thing around it if it melts and burns.....

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johnnymag3
2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

possibly the rest of the tractor and every other thing around it if it melts and burns.....

 

I'm going to do a Volt meter for just that reason..... thanks Eric..

 

If not, I will be adding a fuse for sure !!!!     Leaning heavily towards a Volt meter....hate to go away from original, but this may be a better option

 

Edited by johnnymag3
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sparkie333
On 10/19/2020 at 8:02 AM, rjg854 said:

Wire everything with 14 gauge and you'll be fine

I agree 14 in all wires but maybe bigger to starter to battery and battery cable ground. Just hope this will help.:USA:  Sorry to have come into this so late but I just got back on forum---- I been lost.

Edited by sparkie333

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sparkie333
On 10/19/2020 at 4:29 AM, johnnymag3 said:

Tore out the OEM harness, it had more junctions than Petticoat...........................

 

Would like someone to point me to an actual diagram, my key does not have a ground lug, its self grouning I believe...

 

thanks as always

 

john

I think I have a diagram I will check my books. Good Luck If I can I will send you a picture of my WH C160 I Took it apart and sand blasted it and repainted and put it back together--There was not very many wires to take out and put back in.  If you still need the diagram just let me know.

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AHS
On 10/19/2020 at 9:44 AM, ebinmaine said:

I've been known to run 12 there but it really isn't needed. 14 is fine.

12awg stranded will hold up to a 25 amp fuse, or a 30A (that’s pushing it!) 😀

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johnnymag3

Picture ??? sparkie333.....:)

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ebinmaine
49 minutes ago, johnnymag3 said:

Picture ??? sparkie333.....:)

Johnny what did you need a picture of? I might be able to help you within the next couple days...

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johnnymag3

Sparkie said in a few posts back, he wanted to show me his C 160....

 

Sorry for the confusion.....my lack of indicating what picture I was looking for

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