416-8 won't shift between high and low range. Thinking about opening the transmission and taking a peak. Thoughts?

[EchoBravo 11]

I bought my 416 as a parts tractor, but decided it had too many good parts so I re-powered it and now it is my favorite tractor that gets the most use.  It was never able to shift between low and high range.  It is my only manual transmission tractor so I want low range to work too (other rigs are 312H and 520H).  

 

Now summer is over and I have a month or so before the snow flies and I need it to plow.  I am thinking about taking it apart and opening the transmission.  Any tips? Is it a huge mistake.  What should I watch out for?  

 

I am expecting something might be worn out or just got thrown out of alignment and that is why it will no longer shift.  

 

Thanks for your help.

[wallfish 17,079]

The transmission gurus should be along with more detailed pointers for ya but it sounds like the high / low fork has broken. There's quite a bit of leverage from the long shift handle and someone probably tried forcing it into gear when the gears didn't easily mesh. When that happens it's always best to release the clutch pedal briefly and push back on it.  That will usually allow it to shift easily into gear by realigning the gear teeth into a better position. If the fork is broken you'll need to open her up and replace it.

[ebinmaine 68,343]

Interesting screen name considering my initials...

 

I have an 8 speed laying for parts that should have a good fork if you need it. 

 

I don't know how much they changed over the years. This one was likely late 70s/early 80s but I've never checked. 

 

Opening these up is pretty easy except for the wheel hubs and rear hitch pin. Nature's rust welding tends to keep those in place. 

Best NOT to use a standard 3 jaw puller.  Set up an old hub as a puller using 5 points of pull through the lug holes. 

Penetrating fluids and heat will be your friends. 

 

@stevasaurus has some great info pinned at the top of the transmission section. 

Watch the videos if you haven't already. 

 

[953 nut 55,771]

Here is the thread by @stevasaurus on the 8 speeds.

 

[The Tuul Crib 7,337]

T😎 

whatever you do do not force these levers! Especially the Hi Lo

[peter lena 8,721]

ECHO BRAVO, WELCOME  !  , first question is , have you ever changed your trans fluid ? is your shifter boot ripped or open at any point ?  having to go into these transmissions is typically not a thing you do , if your trans fluid is good and clean. you might even have a DETENT SHIFTER  SCREW that's worn  , ebay or related sites , here will have that . first off you do not , force or roughly try to operate the shifters .I am betting its milky dirty trans fluid , this should be drained out , and refilled with atf fluid or kerosene, and driven around to cut the crud and help flush. having done this , it was a combo of filthy trans fluid , and a detent screw that made my shifters work like new. let us know what you find , pete

[RJ Hamner 1,011]

2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Here is the thread by @stevasaurus on the 8 speeds.

 

[oliver2-44 9,858]

Since you picked that up as a parts tractor, who knows what its history is.  The shifter forks are at the top of the transmission and the rails they slide on would be an area to rust if it set unused for a few years.   After 30+ years the rails may just need a good clean up, or as other have said once they got to where they didn't slide easy someone forced it..and broke a fork.  As Steve's video shows, there are really not difficult.  You could get away with only pulling  one hub and the hitch pin.  Nut after 30+ years it deserves a good cleanout.  besides the video, there's lots of good on line help here.  I've done 3 different tranny's now and these guys have been a blessing on every one.

Gaskets, seals, bearing and a few gears are available from one of our Vendors Wheelhorse parts and More.  A-Z Tractor would also probable have a good used shift fork.  He's great and doesn't sell a used part if it's worn out. 

[stevasaurus 22,863]

This picture shows the hi/low shift fork...your is probably bent or broke.

 

This part is still available from your TORO dealer is around  $60.

 

Remember to clean off the black paint if the new part comes painted.  

[EchoBravo 11]

On 10/17/2020 at 5:18 AM, ebinmaine said:

Interesting screen name considering my initials...

 

I have an 8 speed laying for parts that should have a good fork if you need it. 

 

 

Another Eric B I see. I used to work in the maritime industry and we had an Aaron on the crew, so I became EB to tell the difference on the radios easier.  Also thanks for the offer on new fork! I'll have to figure out whats going on with it.  LOTS of great help in this thread. Thanks to everyone.   

[EchoBravo 11]

On 10/17/2020 at 8:17 AM, peter lena said:

ECHO BRAVO, WELCOME  !  , first question is , have you ever changed your trans fluid ? is your shifter boot ripped or open at any point ?  having to go into these transmissions is typically not a thing you do , if your trans fluid is good and clean. you might even have a DETENT SHIFTER  SCREW that's worn  , ebay or related sites , here will have that . first off you do not , force or roughly try to operate the shifters .I am betting its milky dirty trans fluid , this should be drained out , and refilled with atf fluid or kerosene, and driven around to cut the crud and help flush. having done this , it was a combo of filthy trans fluid , and a detent screw that made my shifters work like new. let us know what you find , pete

 

Oh yes, it was pretty nasty when I first got it.  The boot is all denigrated and more water than oil in the tranny.  I store it inside now and the oil is still looking good.  WIll have to look into this detent screw.

[EchoBravo 11]

Thanks for the replies and videos.  BIG help.

[peter lena 8,721]

now that  I have a picture of what you have, a couple of options are , to put the rear end up on jack stands and run and try to cycle trans . the other is to get some road time on it , if you have a lightly used road near by , I spent a lot of time in reverse and range changes , which you cannot do now. did you drain out that oil/ water from trans? I use atf fluid as a flushing oil, put some miles and hours on it , regularly changing gears and ranges , to heat things up, in this phase , do not rough house the shifters. found shifters started to move easier , repeated  stop start , all gears and range swap . you might even heat up any flushing oil first , to help out. after the flushing oil looks darker / milky , jack up the front end ,for a better oil drain , refill and do it again , found 2/3 flushes to do it . replace shifter boot , check play in detent bolt. maybe a small adjustment. having done this an used tractors , has really worked for me ,  it takes time to recover , neglect , pete