peter lena 8,721 #51 Posted October 6, 2020 TRACTORCHILD 97 , I have also used ATF FLUID , with good results , seams to cut the varnish faster , your clutch pedal issue tells me that you have a rusty / binding linkage set up . I emphasize the lubrication detailing on the linkage , not just a quick spray and done , grease the pedal cross shaft fittings , if your linkage is sloppy at the engagement / pivot point , firm it up with washers for a solid smooth fit , as well as lubricant , melting rust . put a jack under the center front axel area , for drainage, do not lift it on the grease fitting there. I have a early TOYOTA SCREW JACK , that is perfect for that. i can only tell you about what to do , its a regular thing for me , but if you base your gains on BASELINE MAINTIANCE , you will be on the right track. did you grease the pto needle bearing ? easy , also use hi temp grease, also lubricate your pto linkage , add washers to make it solid , not sloppy . wish I was much closer to walk you thru a lube tune up , let us know how you make out , pete 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TractorChild97 158 #52 Posted October 6, 2020 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: Our own vendor Wheel horse parts and more. They sell a ton of stuff for these horses and shift boots are one of them. I have a few in stock and I can check and see if I have any extras. I'll definitely toss ya a few bucks for one 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #53 Posted October 6, 2020 I'll take a look tonight or tomorrow for you 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TractorChild97 158 #54 Posted October 7, 2020 8 hours ago, peter lena said: TRACTORCHILD 97 , I have also used ATF FLUID , with good results , seams to cut the varnish faster , your clutch pedal issue tells me that you have a rusty / binding linkage set up . I emphasize the lubrication detailing on the linkage , not just a quick spray and done , grease the pedal cross shaft fittings , if your linkage is sloppy at the engagement / pivot point , firm it up with washers for a solid smooth fit , as well as lubricant , melting rust . put a jack under the center front axel area , for drainage, do not lift it on the grease fitting there. I have a early TOYOTA SCREW JACK , that is perfect for that. i can only tell you about what to do , its a regular thing for me , but if you base your gains on BASELINE MAINTIANCE , you will be on the right track. did you grease the pto needle bearing ? easy , also use hi temp grease, also lubricate your pto linkage , add washers to make it solid , not sloppy . wish I was much closer to walk you thru a lube tune up , let us know how you make out , pete I'll definitely keep updating y'all on my wheel horse adventure. They are way different than the mowers im use to working on. Iv read up on a sticking brake with the clutch issue but i have never thought to. Check the clutch links. That could be the problem. Thanks for the help man! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,721 #55 Posted October 7, 2020 TRACTORCHILD 97 , I have also used ATF FLUID , with good results , seams to cut the varnish faster , your clutch pedal issue tells me that you have a rusty / binding linkage set up . I emphasize the lubrication detailing on the linkage , not just a quick spray and done , grease the pedal cross shaft fittings , if your linkage is sloppy at the engagement / pivot point , firm it up with washers for a solid smooth fit , as well as lubricant , melting rust . put a jack under the center front axel area , for drainage, do not lift it on the grease fitting there. I have a early TOYOTA SCREW JACK , that is perfect for that. i can only tell you about what to do , its a regular thing for me , but if you base your gains on BASELINE MAINTIANCE , you will be on the right track. did you grease the pto needle bearing ? easy , also use hi temp grease, also lubricate your pto linkage , add washers to make it solid , not sloppy . wish I was much closer to walk you thru a lube tune up , let us know how you make out , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,721 #56 Posted October 7, 2020 TRACTORCHILD, those lever /linkage swivel points are vital to make linkage work like it should , example, I did a pto lever enhancement , at the start of its action , next to the lower battery tray area. h/w store Teflon washers / steel washers to tighten everything up, also used silicone grease at every point . I know this freaks out , w/h purists , but its movement and function is like magic. worth a look , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TractorChild97 158 #57 Posted October 8, 2020 (edited) Hey guys I got the woodruff key out without much damage. Its alittle mushroomed but alittle sanding and I can reuse this key. I was going to ask this since I was already this far. There is alittle bit of slack in my rear axles, not even 1/8 of an inch up and down. All of my other mowers have this slack but when it comes to wheel horses I'm not 100% sure about anything unless its things y'all have told me. Thanks for all the help! Okay so I tried to get a video of the slack but its almost non existing, and its such little slack I couldnt hold the camera still enough but it is there. Maybe a bearung replacement soon? I'm not sure if the axles use Needle bearings or ball bearings. Edited October 8, 2020 by TractorChild97 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #58 Posted October 8, 2020 6 hours ago, TractorChild97 said: slack in my rear axles, not even 1/8 of an inch up and down That's just about the upper limit. If it feels ok (not crunchy) I'd put it together and run it. It'll do fine for awhile. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,354 #59 Posted October 8, 2020 4 hours ago, ebinmaine said: That's just about the upper limit. If it feels ok (not crunchy) I'd put it together and run it. It'll do fine for awhile. If there is 1/8" up and down the bearing is totally wasted, there should be almost no vertical movement, in and out can be quite a bit. The grease seal will be damaged with that vertical movement but worse, the axle housing and axle can be damaged as well. The play should be accurately measured so an informed decision can be made. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #60 Posted October 8, 2020 7 minutes ago, lynnmor said: . The play should be accurately measured so an informed decision can be made Agreed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TractorChild97 158 #62 Posted October 8, 2020 The first picture is pulling up on the axle and the second is pushing down. You can see the slightest gap difference. I tried to post a video but it exceeded an amount or something. Thanks for the help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TractorChild97 158 #63 Posted October 8, 2020 Alright another update. I'm pretty sure I'm S*** on because the bearing behind the seal was shattered. As I picked away the pieces I ses that there is nothing in this bearing! Its just a shattered casing. I dont know how to replace them or honestly what to even do now. Feeling alittle turdish at the moment Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,867 #64 Posted October 8, 2020 (edited) Any noticeable up down or front to rear is a bad thing. It will still work but the bearing will wear faster and faster. Failure is not a good thing. Picture is what happens when good needle bearings go bad (In this case it also destroyed the 1533 ball bearing which isn't cheap. Edited October 8, 2020 by pfrederi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #66 Posted October 8, 2020 I'll give you the fact that having that needle go bad does kind of stink but don't get too concerned about doing the repair. If you have enough mechanical skill to get those hubs off then you'll be just fine popping that transmission out and splitting it open. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TractorChild97 158 #67 Posted October 8, 2020 5 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I'll give you the fact that having that needle go bad does kind of stink but don't get too concerned about doing the repair. If you have enough mechanical skill to get those hubs off then you'll be just fine popping that transmission out and splitting it open. This worries me big time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #68 Posted October 8, 2020 6 minutes ago, TractorChild97 said: This worries me big time. Nahhh. Seriously. Super easy. Nuts and bolts all the way through except for the bearing which is driven in. You can do that with the appropriately sized closet pole. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #69 Posted October 8, 2020 All the parts you need are readily available. If you can turn a ratchet you can do this. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TractorChild97 158 #70 Posted October 8, 2020 51 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I'll give you the fact that having that needle go bad does kind of stink but don't get too concerned about doing the repair. If you have enough mechanical skill to get those hubs off then you'll be just fine popping that transmission out and splitting it open. Here we go! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #71 Posted October 8, 2020 4 minutes ago, TractorChild97 said: Here we go! Is your trailer hitch pin out? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TractorChild97 158 #72 Posted October 8, 2020 8 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Is your trailer hitch pin out? Glad you said something! I aint got that far yet. I'm moving very slow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #73 Posted October 8, 2020 Just now, TractorChild97 said: Glad you said something! I aint got that far yet. I'm moving very slow. No worries. You'll want to get after that fairly soon because they can be just as stubborn as a hub on the axle. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TractorChild97 158 #74 Posted October 8, 2020 7 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: No worries. You'll want to get after that fairly soon because they can be just as stubborn as a hub on the axle. I can definitely tell... Oh man these things can be a pain. It feels so solid. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #75 Posted October 8, 2020 Just make sure when you are trying to remove it that you do not mushroom the end with a hammer. That just makes things more... fun. If it comes right down to it you can use a sawzall to cut the pieces out and then get them out individually in three or even four sections but obviously we want to try to avoid that... Same basic removal situation as the hubs. Remember HEAT is your friend. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
