308-8 Axle seals

[ebinmaine 68,335]

3 hours ago, Bill D said:

I bought those seals thru Rock Auto.  Best price around.

I'll try to remember to check that when I need something. 

[953 nut 55,769]

11 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Richard @953 nut has recommended (parafin??). 

I have had good luck with paraffin on roll pins and steering wheels. Heat the shaft just below the steering wheel and let the wax melt into the gap between the wheel and shaft as well as inside and around the roll pin.  

[peter lena 8,720]

packing puller  is what you want to remove those seals ,  https://www.grainger.com/product/4VLV4?gclid=CjwKCAjwiOv7BRBREiwAXHbv3JITXddOr-Nb4vFLuKW5qKBuUeK-4ljk8z0U9HO2ytDm9g1l9VV0bRoCmdAQAvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=CjwKCAjwiOv7BRBREiwAXHbv3JITXddOr-Nb4vFLuKW5qKBuUeK-4ljk8z0U9HO2ytDm9g1l9VV0bRoCmdAQAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!281698275966!!!g!469900349426!&gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:9GQX3L:20500731  you can probably find it at harbor freight .  used them for years on tank drive seal shaft packing , pete 

[The Tuul Crib 7,337]

4 minutes ago, peter lena said:

packing puller  is what you want to remove those seals ,  https://www.grainger.com/product/4VLV4?gclid=CjwKCAjwiOv7BRBREiwAXHbv3JITXddOr-Nb4vFLuKW5qKBuUeK-4ljk8z0U9HO2ytDm9g1l9VV0bRoCmdAQAvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=CjwKCAjwiOv7BRBREiwAXHbv3JITXddOr-Nb4vFLuKW5qKBuUeK-4ljk8z0U9HO2ytDm9g1l9VV0bRoCmdAQAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!281698275966!!!g!469900349426!&gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:9GQX3L:20500731  you can probably find it at harbor freight .  used them for years on tank drive seal shaft packing , pete 

Now that's kind of an interesting tool. Looks like it could work thanks for sharing that Pete!

[peter lena 8,720]

tuul crib ,thanks for the reply, we did regular " CHANGE OVERS "  on tank drive packings , so we could use the tanks for other products , you had to sterilize the glass tanks , 1500 gal , and change packings for no cross contamination of chemical make up . had a regular identical shaft matching size cut board set up , so you could pre cut your braided (  often Teflon packing ) so as you removed packing , you cleaned the stuffing box  , and replaced with new . those pullers definitely work  , pete

[ebinmaine 68,335]

29 minutes ago, peter lena said:

pullers

Hey Pete. That looks interesting.

 

My method of removing seals is something I learned maybe 30 years ago from a truck mechanic that didn't always have full access to his shop like on a road call.

 

I use a small but sharp flat screwdriver and pierce the seal.  Sometimes you have to do that in two or three places and then work it out using leverage.

 

How do you go about using the tool you've listed?

 

 

 

@TractorChild97 

For a driver to put the new seal in place I used the actual hub itself on the tractor.  Use it like a slide hammer. You'll have to clean the axle shaft off nice and **** and span anyways to get the new seal in so it should slide very easily back and forth. VERY GOOD IDEA to put a small piece of tape over the groove that the key sits in to prevent the sharp edges from damaging the seal.

[peter lena 8,720]

ebinmaine , simply pierce a small hole in the outer seal metal shell , a nail punch would easily do it , screw it in , and pull it out , pete

[ebinmaine 68,335]

2 hours ago, peter lena said:

ebinmaine , simply pierce a small hole in the outer seal metal shell , a nail punch would easily do it , screw it in , and pull it out , pete

You know I'm almost kind of thinking I may have to try that

[TractorChild97 158]

5 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Hey Pete. That looks interesting.

 

My method of removing seals is something I learned maybe 30 years ago from a truck mechanic that didn't always have full access to his shop like on a road call.

 

I use a small but sharp flat screwdriver and pierce the seal.  Sometimes you have to do that in two or three places and then work it out using leverage.

 

How do you go about using the tool you've listed?

 

 

 

@TractorChild97 

For a driver to put the new seal in place I used the actual hub itself on the tractor.  Use it like a slide hammer. You'll have to clean the axle shaft off nice and **** and span anyways to get the new seal in so it should slide very easily back and forth. VERY GOOD IDEA to put a small piece of tape over the groove that the key sits in to prevent the sharp edges from damaging the seal.

I'm glad you brought that up, I didnt even think of that. I have actually cut myself on those ridges before, they can be SHARP!

Edited October 5, 2020 by TractorChild97
Misspelling

[ebinmaine 68,335]

1 minute ago, TractorChild97 said:

I'm glad you brought that up, I didnt even think of that. I have actually cut myself on those ridges before, they can be SHARP!

I will normally take a grindstone or even a hand file and take that edge off if I can. You will often times see that the keyway is expanded and needs to be filed down just a tiny bit anyway.

 

[TractorChild97 158]

[TractorChild97 158]

[TractorChild97 158]

So I finally got the hub off. At one point it had alot of pressure and popped almost 3/4 of the way off. After that it was still kinda tough. It honestly didnt take as much force as I thought but it was 100% stuck! It took me about 2 hours from start to finish. Heat, pb blaster and patience. I should probably try to take the other side off and replace the seal as well. If one goes bad its only a matter of time before the next goes bad right? 

[ebinmaine 68,335]

1 hour ago, TractorChild97 said:

should probably try to take the other side off and replace the seal as well. If one goes bad its only a matter of time before the next goes bad right

VERY nice work getting that hub removed. 

 

There are 4 seals on a manual transmission. 2 axle. Brake drum shaft. Drive input shaft. 

Not a terrible idea to replace all four. 

 

Don't forget to apply Nevercease or something to the axles as you reinstall. 

[TractorChild97 158]

29 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

VERY nice work getting that hub removed. 

 

There are 4 seals on a manual transmission. 2 axle. Brake drum shaft. Drive input shaft. 

Not a terrible idea to replace all four. 

 

Don't forget to apply Nevercease or something to the axles as you reinstall. 

Okay so I ran into something. I'm pretty sure these keys are suppose to come out but man is it stuck!! Are they all the same seals? The same size?

Edited October 5, 2020 by TractorChild97

[ebinmaine 68,335]

26 minutes ago, TractorChild97 said:

Okay so I ran into something. I'm pretty sure these keys are suppose to come out but man is it stuck!! Are they all the same seals? The same size?

Sometimes the keys are "rust welded"  in. 

You can usually heat the area around the key and break the bond with penetrating oil. 

I use a BIG flat screwdriver to get under the end. Hit the screwdriver with a hammer at the same time as prying up. 

Also try tapping one end of the key to rock it back n forth. 

 

Seals are not the same size. 

Refer back the chart above for the correct part numbers for your transmission and purchase accordingly. 

 

Do you have a new shift boot and fresh transmission oil as well?

[TractorChild97 158]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Sometimes the keys are "rust welded"  in. 

You can usually heat the area around the key and break the bond with penetrating oil. 

I use a BIG flat screwdriver to get under the end. Hit the screwdriver with a hammer at the same time as prying up. 

Also try tapping one end of the key to rock it back n forth. 

 

Seals are not the same size. 

Refer back the chart above for the correct part numbers for your transmission and purchase accordingly. 

 

Do you have a new shift boot and fresh transmission oil as well?

Nah I actually just have a bag rubber banded around the base of the shifter because the boot was dry rotted and almost not even there. The oil should be here tomorrow. I'm using 80-90 gear oil. I actually put new oil in it a month ago and the oil thats draining out now looks like a nasty caramel already. I'm gonna flush it all out when I get the seal in the mail. 

I finally understand how to read that chart. I took notes on all the seals I need. I'm gonna start replacing them. 

Edited October 6, 2020 by TractorChild97

[ebinmaine 68,335]

Those boots are available online for $10 or $15.

 

If you look at the bottom of the transmission case you'll see that there's a bolt that holds the two case halves together.  That creates a hump in the transmission floor interior.

Because there is a separate well in the bottom of the transmission that has no drain plug you need to raise the front of the tractor as much as you can safely do so while draining.

 

A good way to flush these transmissions is to drain as described then put in two or three quarts of diesel or kerosene.

Drive it around for maybe 10 minutes making sure to go around corners in both directions and get every gear for a few rotations including low.

Drain and repeat as necessary until the fluid comes out close to the same color it went in.

 

[peter lena 8,720]

tractorchild97, while i agree with others on the kerosene or diesel fuel flush out , your caramel colored oil tells a less than thorough flushing action. do you have any paved road near you that you can drive on ? like a cul de sac or similar ? i would put some hours  and miles on that gear oil , as well as using every gear  and hi/lo range , i especially put time on reverse gearing , because its not used much . you might even heat up that fresh oil before adding it to increase its lubrication / cleaning additives . also raise the front end at drain time to increase drainage. you will probable have to do this a couple of times , change that shift boot . done this on all my horses , and they all shift like they should , smooth and easy , also lubricate the clutch linkage with grease and lubricating spray, till the rust runs out . the linkage should be an effortless operation, i can start off in 3rd , with no squealing , or jumping , its the details that make these horses run without effort , my experience, pete   

[ebinmaine 68,335]

11 minutes ago, peter lena said:

lubrication

What's your favorite spray lube that could be used on linkages and such?

 

[peter lena 8,720]

my favorite spray is LUBRIPLATE  CHAIN AND CABLE SPRAY , nothing else i have found creeps and lubricates like it. if you can get a cable spray , its chemical creeping make up is the best for rust prone areas. i use this oil to first spray down the underside of a mower deck , to ensure stopping rust , then after its dried in the sun , i over spray it with the heavy open gear spray , also lubriplate  ,and let that get hot in the sun , this is the result , this works for me , pete 

 

[TractorChild97 158]

2 hours ago, peter lena said:

tractorchild97, while i agree with others on the kerosene or diesel fuel flush out , your caramel colored oil tells a less than thorough flushing action. do you have any paved road near you that you can drive on ? like a cul de sac or similar ? i would put some hours  and miles on that gear oil , as well as using every gear  and hi/lo range , i especially put time on reverse gearing , because its not used much . you might even heat up that fresh oil before adding it to increase its lubrication / cleaning additives . also raise the front end at drain time to increase drainage. you will probable have to do this a couple of times , change that shift boot . done this on all my horses , and they all shift like they should , smooth and easy , also lubricate the clutch linkage with grease and lubricating spray, till the rust runs out . the linkage should be an effortless operation, i can start off in 3rd , with no squealing , or jumping , its the details that make these horses run without effort , my experience, pete   

Yeah all I done was drained old oil out and poured new oil in until the clean oil started to come out alittle. I also didnt lift the mower up to drain the front well as ebinmaine was explaining to me. Are there any other options I can use other than kerosene and diesel? And I have to SLOWLY let off the clutch in 3rd high to take off. If I dont take my foot off super slow its wheelies all day. 

[ebinmaine 68,335]

Nice Emoji there right at the end. That's just plain funny.

Others may chime in and say different options that you can use. The thing with the k1 or diesel is that it is literally oil just very very thin and lubricates while it cleanses.

It's important to be able to drive it around in between so that the cleaning properties can get into the bases of all the gears and in between all the bearing rollers and balls.

 

[TractorChild97 158]

40 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Nice Emoji there right at the end. That's just plain funny.

Others may chime in and say different options that you can use. The thing with the k1 or diesel is that it is literally oil just very very thin and lubricates while it cleanses.

It's important to be able to drive it around in between so that the cleaning properties can get into the bases of all the gears and in between all the bearing rollers and balls.

 

Thanks  I will try to get some diesel. The Amish take all of the kerosene here in little menifee county KY. I'm also gonna pick up a shifter boot soon!

[ebinmaine 68,335]

13 minutes ago, TractorChild97 said:

Thanks  I will try to get some diesel. The Amish take all of the kerosene here in little menifee county KY. I'm also gonna pick up a shifter boot soon!

 

Our own vendor Wheel horse parts and more. They sell a ton of stuff for these horses and shift boots are one of them. I have a few in stock and I can check and see if I have any extras.