Onan P220-G Exhaust/ Muffler Work

[Horse Newbie 7,114]

28 minutes ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

That's the lifters that are loose but yes that's how I adjust them on the Kohlers, I suppose someday I should adjust the lash on my 520s, (if ain't broken i ain't fixed it yet) but even on my solid lifter SBC I would rotate the engine over until the pressure is completely off the rocker before adjustment.

@WVHillbilly520H thanks a million for your input and opinion. And @lynnmor. Having you fellows input really steers me on the right direction.

I agree with you Jeff when you say if it ain't broke don't fix it, but like another horseman mentioned, now would be a good time to adjust the lifters since I had it tore down this far.

I really don't know the history of the tractor and with all the other stuff I have done:

1. Clean debri from engine tins.

2. New spark plugs.

3. New Coil

4.Check wiring and clean and grease all terminals.

5. New Battery.

6. New Oil pressure switch

7. Wired oil pressure switch to properly work hour meter.

8. New hour meter.

9. Change engine oil and filter

10. Change hydro oil and filter.

11. Rewire 30 amp charger circuit wire bypassing 9 pin connector that was burnt.

12. Rewire 20 amp starter circuit wire bypassing 9 pin connector that was burnt.(I now have a 7 pin connector...lol)

13. New fuel pet cock.

14. New fuel line

15. New fuel pump.

16. New nylon bushings on hydro lift and direction control levers.

17. New Air seal gasket/ grommet around oil filter.

18. New dash bulbs.

19. New(to me) air tube from engine housing to air cleaner box.

20. Re pipe loose oil drain pipe on engine.

21. Sand blast, weld crack in muffler.

22. Repaint muffler.

23. Repaint muffler heat shield.

24. New rear tire.

25. New carb.

26. New battery box.

27. New battery hold down.

28. Replaced missing plastic flywheel shroud/ guard.

29. Cleaned and resealed intake manifold.

30. Lube all grease fittings.

31. Oil all pivot points with "3 in 1" machine oil.

I figured go ahead and check/ adjust the lifters...

Hopefully with doing these thing I will have caught it back up on some of its needed maintenance and possibly ensured a few good years of use.

Of course after I get the 520H right, then I start on the 58 inch side discharge deck, 

Then the 36 inch rototiller...

 

[WVHillbilly520H 10,374]

Please DON'T oil the hydro cam/eccentric the only lube to use on this (not just my opinion) is a dry graphite power... And whether or not you have seen my used 520H thread here's what I started with and it only had 236 hours on a working meter...

 

I hope these help you as you go along as well... Good luck.

[Horse Newbie 7,114]

4 hours ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

That's the lifters that are loose but yes that's how I adjust them on the Kohlers, I suppose someday I should adjust the lash on my 520s, (if ain't broken i ain't fixed it yet) but even on my solid lifter SBC I would rotate the engine over until the pressure is completely off the rocker before adjustment.

@WVHillbilly520H thanks a million for your input and opinion. And @lynnmor. Having you fellows input really steers me in the right direction.

I agree with you Jeff when you say if it ain't broke don't fix it, but like another horseman mentioned, now would be a good time to adjust the lifters since I had it tore down this far.

I really don't know the history of the tractor and with all the other stuff I have done:

1. Clean debri from engine tins.

2. New spark plugs.

3. New Coil

4.Check wiring and clean and grease all terminals.

5. New Battery.

6. New Oil pressure switch

7. Wired oil pressure switch to properly work hour meter.

8. New hour meter.

9. Change engine oil and filter

10. Change hydro oil and filter.

11. Rewire 30 amp charger circuit wire bypassing 9 pin connector that was burnt.

12. Rewire 20 amp starter circuit wire bypassing 9 pin connector that was burnt.(I now have a 7 pin connector...lol)

13. New fuel pet cock and bushing.

14. New fuel line

15. New fuel pump.

16. New nylon bushings on hydro lift and direction control levers.

17. New Air seal gasket/ grommet around oil filter.

18. New dash bulbs.

19. New(to me) air tube from engine housing to air cleaner box.

20. Re pipe loose oil drain pipe on engine.

21. Sand blast, weld crack in muffler.

22. Repaint muffler.

23. Repaint muffler heat shield.

24. New rear tire.

25. New carb.

26. New battery box.

27. New battery hold down.

28. Replaced missing plastic flywheel shroud/ guard.

29. Cleaned and resealed intake manifold.

30. Lube all grease fittings.

31. Oil all pivot points with "3 in 1" machine oil.

I figured go ahead and check/ adjust the lifters...

Hopefully with doing these things I will have caught it back up on some of its needed maintenance and possibly ensured a few good years of use.

Of course after I get the 520H right, then I start on the 48 inch side discharge deck, 

Then the 36 inch rototiller...

 

Edited November 20, 2020 by Horse Newbie

[Horse Newbie 7,114]

1 hour ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

Please DON'T oil the hydro cam/eccentric the only lube to use on this (not just my opinion) is a dry graphite power... And whether or not you have seen my used 520H thread here's what I started with and it only had 236 hours on a working meter...

 

I hope these help you as you go along as well... Good luck.

@WVHillbilly520H  thanks for the warning about not lubricating the hydro cam/ eccentric with oil.

I luckily have not lubed that for whatever reason.

I have only been doing linkages and where shafts pass through a hole or bushing type things...

But can you tell me why you would use only dry graphite powder...

I was guessing maybe oil would cause it not to " return to" or "rest" in neutral...

 

 

[lynnmor 7,353]

You can lube anything on or near the hydro except the friction washers on the cam plate.  Of course lubing the cam groove might cause lubricant to migrate to the friction washers if too much is used.

[WVHillbilly520H 10,374]

8 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

@WVHillbilly520H  thanks for the warning about not lubricating the hydro cam/ eccentric with oil.

I luckily have not lubed that for whatever reason.

I have only been doing linkages and where shafts pass through a hole or bushing type things...

But can you tell me why you would use only dry graphite powder...

I was guessing maybe oil would cause it not to " return to" or "rest" in neutral...

 

 

Oil attracts dust grass chaffe, over time it causes more wear and it gets to sticking instead of smooth flowing motion control movements again my experiences but I prefer the graphite powder and I'm pretty sure is says NOT to in the OM.