1960 Suburban 400 and 1961 Suburban 551 Restoration

[WHX?? 48,833]

On 2/25/2021 at 10:37 AM, oliver2-44 said:

I filled with PC-7.  But it also had tiny shallow cracks all over it.  I completely covered the wheel with a thin layer of glazing compound then sanded it back to the black base with just fine red compound in the cracks. 

Getting back to that for a sec Jim how did the PC-7 work out? I haven't used that product in years. I was thinking of just using body filler as I think that's what @Racinbob used?  What product is the glazing compound?

I have a wheel to do in same shape. 

I ordered the JD wheel from Steiner tractor as @Achto's 701 project has a very nice 702 style wheel on it that we are going to trade so that wheel can go on Cindy's 702.  It's identical to WH ones except for the splines and no roll pin hole which will be easy to deal with. Makes me wonder if's its even worth it to resto one. 

[ebinmaine 67,657]

9 minutes ago, WHX24 said:

splines

What do you do about the splines?

[Achto 27,609]

11 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

What do you do about the splines?

 

The hole in the wheel is 11/16", & the splines do not go all the way through the hole. I'm just going to run a 3/4" reamer through it to get it to the correct size. Then drill it for the roll pin.

[Achto 27,609]

24 minutes ago, WHX24 said:

Makes me wonder if's its even worth it to resto one. 

 

I was kid of wondering that myself. Might have more time into repairing what you have than it's worth?

[WHX?? 48,833]

14 minutes ago, Achto said:

Might have more time into repairing what you have than it's worth?

Exactly unless you want to blow the "it's orginal" horn which there will be a few other things on the tractor you can't restore and have to fab. . So it comes down to self  satisfaction of a job well done. Nothing wrong with that.  I guess if you are retired like Ollie and have plenty of time and no other projects going! 

[oliver2-44 9,761]

25 minutes ago, WHX24 said:

 I guess if you are retired like Ollie and have plenty of time and no other projects going! 

I think...no I know, I had more tractor time when I was employed.
The PC7 worked well on the wheel with just the cracks at the spokes.  The PC7 is a little thicker than JB Weld and that helps, but JB would work fine. I also used Bondo on wheels 40 years ago at the High School tractor shop job. 
I looked at the steering  wheels at Steiners and agree they are the way to go in the future. I just wanted to see how the PC7 worked and would use it or bondo if a wheel only needed minor repair. I will go new in the future verses any major repairs

[Pullstart 62,916]

On 3/17/2021 at 9:07 AM, WHX24 said:

Getting back to that for a sec Jim how did the PC-7 work out? I haven't used that product in years. I was thinking of just using body filler as I think that's what @Racinbob used?  What product is the glazing compound?

I have a wheel to do in same shape. 

I ordered the JD wheel from Steiner tractor as @Achto's 701 project has a very nice 702 style wheel on it that we are going to trade so that wheel can go on Cindy's 702.  It's identical to WH ones except for the splines and no roll pin hole which will be easy to deal with. Makes me wonder if's its even worth it to resto one. 

I used PC-7 as body filler in early 2018 on Putt Putt.  It was super tough and almost too hard to do body work on.  I ended up grinding a lot of it out and using bondo to skim anyways.  

[WHX?? 48,833]

13 minutes ago, pullstart said:

was super tough and almost too hard to do body work on

Now you tell me ... just ordered some of it. Very cheap off the jungle site tho and won't hurt to have some on the shelf for other stuff. 

Will give it a try with bondo being plan B. If using bed liner for a final covering it fills in imperfections nicely. 

Edited March 19, 2021 by WHX24

[oliver2-44 9,761]

@WHX24 The PC-7 worked well for me on the steering wheel repair.  I tried using a wetted finger to smooth it like someone suggested, but that didn't help me much.  So I worked it down with a hand file and that worked really good.  Then some final sanding and I have it partially polished using my rouge wheel.  The file was the thing to use, as it does sand hard.   

 

So I've been gradually getting some bodywork done, mainly filling rust pits with bondo.

 

I would say everything is done except the hoods......

But then I realized my fenders had these extra upper set of holes in them.  Does anyone know if these holes are there for a reason, or just something some PO did in the past?  

Made up some new rods for the lift arm. 

 

Gathered up all my parts and did a trial assembly on the 400.  I'm glad I did.  You can't see it in these photos, but the steering is very tight with the hood stand bolted down. With the bolts loose, the steering shaft holds the hood stand about an 1/8" off the frame. 

When I disassembled this frame the steering gear was rust bound in the lower hole and I had to use some heat and twisting to get it out.  I suspect I tweaked/bent that lower piece a tiny bit, just enough to change the angle on the steering shaft a degree or two.  So a little heating adjustment is needed to get a nice smooth steering  shaft movement. 

I've also laid out all my miscellaneous parts to see what I'm missing so i could make a list. At this point, the engine, hood body work, exhaust and a few hardware store items are it.   O, and to solder that new filler neck into the gas tank. 

 

My hood has a few little dents in it, but the big thing I need to work out is about a 1/4" sway in the top length of it like an old sway back horse. 

It will oil can straight, but pop right back down. 

Any suggestions how to work that oil can out and keep it straight would be appreciated.  

 

 After I finish the tractor,  if things work out, it's going to get a custom front attachment using this hitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Pullstart 62,916]

Lookin’ good!  @ebinmaine would likely thumbs up your color choice thus far! 

[oliver2-44 9,761]

Well I guess I'm going to disappoint EB as the current color is just primer.  These 2 will be WH RED.  

[ebinmaine 67,657]

39 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

Well I guess I'm going to disappoint EB as the current color is just primer.  These 2 will be WH RED.  

I'm ok with that.  

I'll do a red one.... Someday.  

[Wheel Horse 3D 3,795]

Gray is my (Grey's) favorite color!

[ebinmaine 67,657]

Just now, Wheel Horse 3D said:

Gray is my (Grey's) favorite color!

So I gotta change my name to orange???

[Wheel Horse 3D 3,795]

Just now, ebinmaine said:

So I gotta change my name to orange???

you could go middle name... EOBinmaine....

[Wheel Horse 3D 3,795]

Or just do the "...". Eric "Orange Bear"

Edited June 7, 2021 by Wheel Horse 3D

[Wheel Horse 3D 3,795]

Then you can be just OBinmaine! That works!

[oliver2-44 9,761]

 

It’s been 4 months, but I actually have been doing several little things. 

 

Welding up extra holes and cracks in thin sheet metal with a stick welder is not my thing. So I traded some sandblast work for some welding by a friend with a wire welder. Now a little grinding and smoothing 

Started repairing worn spindle areas with PC7

I got smart and mask the areas where I didn’t want epoxy. Less file/sanding is a good thing.  I will use a bearing like in the picture in place of the cast iron split bearings. 

The PC7 really worked down nicely with a big file. I used a bearing to tell when I was getting close then switched to sand paper. 
Gas tank is next. 

[oliver2-44 9,761]

Two questions about 551 parts. @formariz, & other 551 owners

This is advertised as a Suburban 551 Tecumseh H60 engine mounting plate on Ebay.  I don't see it on the parts breakdown and of course I don't have one.  Is this required for the Tecumseh H55? or similar H60 engine or just bad advertising

This is advertised as a Suburban 551 ignition switch mounting plate on Ebay.  I don't see it on the parts breakdown and ofcourse I don't have one.  Is this required for the original switch that counts in the round cover plate or bad advertising

[formariz 11,987]

That switch mounting plate is not from a 551. Bad advertisement or just lack o knowledge on the subject. Switch goes on the round cover clipped onto hood. Such cover is really an electric plate cover still available I believe. The one shown seems to be a user made part. 
 

 As for the engine mounting plate, the H60 is not the correct engine for the 551. The H55 is the correct one. Having said that, the two engines are however identical in all dimensions to each other making the H60 a direct replacement if needed. The mounting plate on the H55s can be different wether used on a “B” or on a  “ D” engine. If your question is if that plated would work on a H 55, I believe so but I would have to verify it on the engines I have here. 

[Horse Newbie 7,075]

On 10/27/2021 at 10:00 PM, oliver2-44 said:

The PC7 really worked down nicely with a big file.

What is PC7 , and where do you get it ?

[oliver2-44 9,761]

@Horse Newbie PC7 is an epoxy similar to JB Weld. It is a bit thicker, not quite as runny as JB Weld.  PC 7 reminds me of some expensive industrial repair products we used to build up worn pump impellers or packing box shaft sleeves. I really can’t say if JB Weld or PC 7 is better. On the spindles I built up it was nice the PC7 was less runny. At the same time I filled some pitting on my sons 312-8 mower deck about 5 years ago and it’s still there 

 

I buy PC7 on Amazon.  I’ve bought Large tubes of JB weld at Tractor Supply or Amazon

[oliver2-44 9,761]

Thanks @formariz     Looks like I can make a plate like that out of flat steel plate. What is the height of the raised areas on the plate? 

PS I've collected copies of the electrical information pertaining to the H55 & H60.  But I suspect I will have some questions for you when I get to that engine.

It didn't have an engine when I got it.  So far, I've only found an H60 engine.  I've been looking for a H55, but just don't find them down here. (No old snow blowers for them to come off of I guess) 

[WHNJ701 4,165]

Right or wrong, with my 551 I decided to remove and not use any of the electrical /battery start parts.  It's actually a nice running engine and starts on the 1st or 2nd pull usually.  Old Lauson/tech electric ignition parts are getting really hard to find and are big bucks now.  @formariz was a big help answering questions

 

[542WheelHorse 0]

Hi - this Suburban is quite impressive to follow along.  I have a Suburban 400, 1960 year.  I'm leaking at the rear tires where the axle connects.  It is the axle seal.  Have you run into this issue and if so, what was the solve or newer part # that you used to source the fix?