1960 Suburban 400 and 1961 Suburban 551 Restoration

[oliver2-44 9,761]

I hear that it can take 10, 20, 30 or more years to age fine Whiskey.   These projects are on about that timeline. 

It started in July 2015 when I brought this "1960 Parts Suburban 400" home.  I figured I'd see if I found anything to add to it.

So I disassembled it and gradually e-Tanked, blasted and primed what was usable. 

I've been using Red Garnet 50 mesh and 36 mesh in my homemade blast cabinet.  I usually E-tank th epart to remove rust and paint, then blast to put a profile on the metal to promote primed adhesion (That what I learned from the industrial paint reps at work)

 

Did some JB Weld repair to smooth the rear rim bead area.

 

Salvaged both front rims.  The are that has the red   putty was weld repaired by a welder friend. both front rims got the JB weld treatment in the bead area.   

 

Painted the rims with this, The Almond is a shade too dark.  The next one I will use a Biscuit color in the same paint. It's not a true epoxy, more like an enamel with hardener in a spray can. I really like the way this dries hard-fast and with a good shine.

Christmas 2017 brought some new Ag's for the rear.

 

The frame had been extended on the rear and I cut that off back to original length and welded up some extra holes.

 

 

 

 

The spindles have a lot of wear. I haven't repaired these yet.  I tried to find someone to machine these if I welded or brazed them up, but there such an odd shape no one wanted to mess with them. I'm thinking I will use roller bearings instead of the cast iron bearings, so this repair will need to be close, but not bearing surface perfect.   

Cleaned up all the hardware and primed it. We'll see if I use it or go stainless.

I soaked the Choke/Throttle plate in Evapo-Rust and could barely see a serial number.  I then polished some aluminum on my grinder buffing wheel with white rouge until the pad was good and black.  Then I polished the plate and the black brought the serial number out nicely.  This number falls just above the 1st 1000 Suburban's built per the numbers @gwest_ca maintains on the manual's page . 

The transmission casting date B3-0  February 3rd-1960 and the solid seat pan while not conclusive, go along with the serial number pointing towards this being an early Suburban.

I'm calling this a suburban 400. But it's interesting the 2 holes in the upper left part of the hood stand match the foot print of the starter solenoid they used on the 551.

So there's a little fuzzyness if this should maybe be a 550 or who knows what the Ponds or some PO might have done.

 

I did a thread on the transmission rebuild that I need to find and insert here.

 

 

 

 

[ZXT 2,401]

Jim, looks like your projects are coming along nicely! If there's ever been a year that's been tailored to staying home and finishing projects, 2020 is it. I've gone through a number of non-tractor related projects that have been waiting for years. 

 

Do you plan on going tubeless on the wheels you repaired with JB weld? Curious if you're able to get it sanded down round enough to seat. 

 

Going to Temple this year?

 

 

[oliver2-44 9,761]

@ZXT yes those rear wheels are tubeless and have been holding air 3 years!

I've been laying low with this Covid thing since I go help my elderly Mom every week or two. I'm on the fence about making the Temple Tractor Show Oct 3rd, but I'm sure ready to get out of the house and go.  

[Racinbob 11,096]

Looks good Jim. I was under the impression that the solenoid on a 550 was mounted on the left front of the tool box so it was near the battery under the seat. I have two holes there on my 400 making it possible a 550 but who knows what has been done over the 60 years.

I'll stand by it being a 400 cuz that's what I I want it to be  I still remember how excited I got when my Dad pulled in the driveway with a brand new 400 sitting on the trailer. 

I'm looking forward to watching your progress. 

[WHX?? 48,833]

Looks good Jim  On the spindles you could fill them in with weld/braze rough grind them then hand file? Tedious and time consuming I know but the odd shape? 

I used the appliance paint once and had good results and liked the color.  

[ebinmaine 67,657]

I'll be watching the progress. 

 

Looks great so far!

 

What's the difference with the Appliance paint?

Not something I've heard before. 

[WHX?? 48,833]

I just thought it might be more durable. It is to a certain extent. 

[oliver2-44 9,761]

 

This is the Lift handle rod for the 400.  The nut had twisted off trying to remove it.  I'm using 1/2 of a all thread nut. Rethreaded the end of the rod and will tack the nut on like the original. Trimmed the length to match the original 12"

This little clutch spring mount tab is missing on my 400 frame. Not a hard piece to make, but sure is a little on to weld on with a stick welder.  

 

 

Yesterday I worked on the suburban 551 frame. I previously made a new transmission mount due to the old one being patched up.

The vertical angle section on each side is 1/2" wider than the original.  I'm toying with putting bushing in the mount for the clutch bar.  

I haven't drilled the hole yet, but have it marked where the original location and the bushing will just fit and be up against the motor mount.

If I have everything measured right the belt should stay the same length.

with the bushing flanges to the outside everything just fits.  I, wondering if I need a little slop to insure the idler pulley lines up with the transmission. 

I may need to bolt up the transmission to check that out.

I'm thinking of silver soldering the bushings in place.  I welcome any other suggestions on how to secure them

I'd appreciate any comments on adding these bushings.  What say you guru's and Suburban pro's

@Racinbob @formariz @jabelman @AMC RULES @T-Mo @Lane Ranger @oldiron613 @WHX24 @Achto 

 

The stirrup bar had been cut off on one side, so I've got a new one cut to weld on.

Edited September 27, 2020 by oliver2-44

[Lane Ranger 10,968]

DJ Harrison has a couple of these frames for sale.  If it were me I would buy one of those to use in this  application.  

[Achto 27,609]

3 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

I'm thinking of silver soldering the bushings in place. 

 

As long as the o.d. of the bushings fit in the holes tight I would not solder them in place. The shaft will hold them in place & if you should need to replace them some day it will be easier if they are not soldered in place

[AMC RULES 37,132]

Ditto on the lack of need to.

Once the bar is back in place, where are they going to go?

[Racinbob 11,096]

I like the bushings. A little bit of slop doesn't hurt but isn't needed for the idler to align. I agree with the others on not to solder. 

[oliver2-44 9,761]

Thanks, I'll install the bushing with a snug fit.

[WHX?? 48,833]

Yes once the bushings are in where can they go? I don't thing the bushings are an absolute necessity if the holes are a bit more than tight fit on the shaft. On the other hand nothing like a smooth clutch. 

Here is a thread I did awhile back on a 400 resto Jim. May be some things in there that help may not. Some bushing work in there. 

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/57982-dennys-free-suburban-work/

 

Edited September 28, 2020 by WHX24

[oliver2-44 9,761]

Been working on saving the suburban 551's original belt guard.

@AMC RULES like you, this is what I found under some old Bondo.

Decided to reinforce it with some fiberglass

 

Used JB Weld for filler

 

Coated under glass so it pressed through holes

 

Sanding and thin bondo

 

putty for the fine stuff

Almost good as new!  One piece a a time.

 

 

Edited October 16, 2020 by oliver2-44

[AMC RULES 37,132]

Humm, with minimal room to spare on the inside, once installed...it'll be interesting to see if it still fits with that fiberglass matting in there.

Thinking your 2part is all you needed here.

[oliver2-44 9,761]

3 hours ago, AMC RULES said:

Humm, with minimal room to spare on the inside, once installed...it'll be interesting to see if it still fits with that fiberglass matting in there.

Thinking your 2part is all you needed here.

Good point @AMC RULES This is my first Suburban project, so I'm always open to experienced eyes seeing things that could byte me later. 

I had sanded it slick on the inside with the one layer of fiberglass matt.  I'll definitely have to test fit that before paint.  

[Red Headed Horse 38]

Following your project with interest to gather as much information for my Suburban's revival....

[WHNJ701 4,165]

On 10/16/2020 at 2:40 PM, oliver2-44 said:

Good point @AMC RULES This is my first Suburban project, so I'm always open to experienced eyes seeing things that could byte me later. 

I had sanded it slick on the inside with the one layer of fiberglass matt.  I'll definitely have to test fit that before paint.  

After I read this I checked my 551 there isn't much clearance.  With 1 layer i would be fine.  You will find out once you get running if smell the fiberglass burning!

[Pullstart 62,916]

Cool work, Jim!  I have a couple RJ58’s for the girls that I need to brush up on these builds to do our own!

[oliver2-44 9,761]

Lots of distractions.  I got the kitchen backsplash tiled at my house where my son lives.  

Seems like ever 4th tile there's something to cut.

Who can resist taking the Grandkids for breakfast donuts. What's not to love about colored icing and lots of sprinkles!   Yea, my tong was colored too.

 

I actually did a tiny bit of work on the Suburban's. This was the last piece to disassemble.  I soaked the roll pin many times but it didn't want to budge.  Wrapped the wheel arms with wet rags and Mr. Rosebud

paid a red visit to the wheel hub and shaft.  Let it cool and the pin tapped (not pounded) right out.  Kind of cool to see the steering wheel part number come out from under the rust.  

A little penetrant and the wheel hand twisted off the shaft. 

 

 

Edited January 17, 2021 by oliver2-44

[RandyLittrell 3,884]

Love this thread! 

 

I'm not seeing the last pics you posted though! 

 

 

 

Randy

[Handy Don 12,237]

2 hours ago, RandyLittrell said:

I'm not seeing the last pics you posted though! 

@oliver2-44  Same here. FYI, the site doesn't like the HEIC format of the newer iPhones-doesn't have the right codex for them-alternative is go through Preview, crop as needed, then export as jpeg.

Edited January 16, 2021 by Handy Don

[Handy Don 12,237]

On 1/12/2021 at 10:41 PM, oliver2-44 said:

Lots of distractions.  ....

You can also edit your original post to delete the "invisible" images and replace with jpeg versions (and make them a bit smaller in the process if you wish) 

[oliver2-44 9,761]

@RandyLittrell @Handy Don See if those pictures work now.