TractorChild97 158 #26 Posted September 10, 2020 2 hours ago, 953 nut said: The belt guard from any 300 or 400 series should fit. You may have a mower shop that has a bone yard out back that would be able to fix you up. Finding a wheel horse here in my area is really hard. The only one iv ever seen in real life is the one I have, Even my dad hasnt seen many around these parts. But I'll still go hunting forsure! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TractorChild97 158 #27 Posted September 11, 2020 2 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,505 #28 Posted September 11, 2020 On 9/9/2020 at 11:09 PM, TractorChild97 said: could most definitely make one if I had the measurements. My shop is originally a smithy ; ) it just recently became my garage too. If your handy with tin work here's how to figure out the belt guard. Starting at the upper rear corner, this is your only 90 degree corner. All other angles need to be figured from this point. Measure from your mounts to the belt leaving about 1/4" clearance between the belt & the lip of the guard in the areas where they run close together. 16ga sheet metal is recommended. Looking at some pics to get the basic idea of the shape will help also. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,127 #29 Posted September 11, 2020 You could also just request someone with the same model here, trace out a template and mail it out to you. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TractorChild97 158 #30 Posted September 11, 2020 1 hour ago, AMC RULES said: You could also just request someone with the same model here, trace out a template and mail it out to you. Thats a great idea! Now I have to find someone who has one. Thank ya. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TractorChild97 158 #31 Posted September 11, 2020 2 hours ago, Achto said: If your handy with tin work here's how to figure out the belt guard. Starting at the upper rear corner, this is your only 90 degree corner. All other angles need to be figured from this point. Measure from your mounts to the belt leaving about 1/4" clearance between the belt & the lip of the guard in the areas where they run close together. 16ga sheet metal is recommended. Looking at some pics to get the basic idea of the shape will help also. This is super helpful. Thank you. Im going to go hunting for a sheet so I can get this project going. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,708 #32 Posted September 11, 2020 @WHX24, Jim, I think this is the one that will fit. Need to pull that out and measure and take pictures... Thanks Mate. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TractorChild97 158 #33 Posted September 12, 2020 I tried using the search bar to find members with 308s but I dont think its that easy. I found some cool files on wiring and what not. 🙂 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,127 #34 Posted September 12, 2020 Might try just making a post in the W-H tractors forum titled HELP "308 Owners" Needed, or Wanted...something like that. Grabs their attention, and talk about the problem you're having issues with there. I'm sure someone will eventually come to your aid there. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofball65 13 #35 Posted September 12, 2020 have sort of the same deal my 856 was sitting outside for yrs and shifter boot was bad when i went to ck fluid found it was filled to top with water, and little oil, all gears are working and no noise but hesatent to pull apart. ? 's the best thing to clean it out with it ? can i use brakefluid to break up any sludge or surface rust left inside ? really dont want to take apart. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,277 #36 Posted September 12, 2020 5 minutes ago, Goofball65 said: have sort of the same deal my 856 was sitting outside for yrs and shifter boot was bad when i went to ck fluid found it was filled to top with water, and little oil, all gears are working and no noise but hesatent to pull apart. ? 's the best thing to clean it out with it ? can i use brakefluid to break up any sludge or surface rust left inside ? really dont want to take apart. Goofball, don't be the least bit hesitant to take those things apart. Your biggest issue in disassembly is going to be removing the two HUBS and then the PIN for the trailer hitch. Once those are out it's all easy... nuts and bolts stuff. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofball65 13 #37 Posted September 12, 2020 Thanks for your suport ebinmaine, and yea getting that dang hitch out has bin the real challenge, bin trying to get it free for wks just don't want to budge soak and heat then repeat and maby 1 day it will finally let go . stuburn it is UGGG! don't want to break housing, might just take chance on just flushing and fillilng a couple times. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,708 #38 Posted September 12, 2020 Goofball, here is a thread with videos for doing a transmission. Yours, having been full of water, really needs to be opened to clean. Do not use brake fluid...use diesel fuel for flushing and cleaning. Just cut that hitch p;in with a hack saw or Sawsall and press out after opening. You can put a 1/2" pin back in later. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,708 #39 Posted September 12, 2020 tractorchild...measure the diameters of your engine pulley and your transmission in-put pulley...and the distance between the centers of the 2 pulleys. This guard is for my 857. Mine is a short frame tractor. Your tractor frame is going to be about 3" longer, but this will give you the idea of what it looks like. My in-put pulley is 4"...engine pulley is 2 1/2". 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
