ID of Unknown Wheel Horse

[Bucks Toro 2]

Hi Everyone, thanks for a great forum.

 

This is my first post after reading several threads and advice! I've just got my 312-8 wheel horse working after 2 years of sitting idle under tarps.  Fuel now running, no rust in the engine and electrics sort of working.  Have to short it across the solenoid to get it running though.  Pretty sure that the solenoid is broken, since the ignition switch looks corrosion free and I hear the 'click' when I turn it to Start.

 

Any advice on replacing the solenoid.  The Toro OEM ones are pricey at around £32/$40 compared to others advertised for Wheel Horse at around £9/$11 from eBay and others.  They often have a 'STENS' brand watermark on the picture, but they might just be generic pictures.

 

Also, could anyone tell me the model year?  The serial number plate has long gone but I have the Kohler engine (M12S) serial number which is: 1927300113.  It also has the electrics test panel which I didn't think was on 312-8s.

 

I've attached some pics and hope to gradually restore it over the coming months (probably years!).

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

[Pullstart 63,122]

Welcome!  I am unsure of the year, but do you have a meter?  You should be getting 12vdc to the small red wire with the spade terminal when you turn the key.  If not, will it start if you jump from the top post to that small terminal?  Sometimes a switch might pass some voltage through, but not enough amps to make a difference.  I’ve learned it as a “ghost” voltage of sorts.  Just trying to help you narrow down the true culprit.

 

Also, an automotive starter solenoid such as for a 70’s Ford truck (or something you are used to with a separate mounted solenoid from the starter) would work as well.  You’re just trying to pass voltage with high amps through, the tractor will not so much care what brand is doing the job.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,112]

Welcome to the forum.

 

Kohler made your engine in 1989 so makes sense that it land on a 1989 or 1990 model tractor. 1990 models were released in October of 1989.

The hood decal you have was first used in 1990.

The tractor model number R1-12K801 is an exported model and Toro identifies it as a 1990 model.

Expected to see a model number with an E prefix as you are in England.

Have seen the R prefix show up in Spain.

 

Here is what comes up on a R1-12K801 search and the results are in random order.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=R1-12K801&quick=1&type=downloads_file

 

Garry

[Tractorhead 9,065]

Hi and  to   

 

Did you try to start with depressed clutch Pedal?

the clicking noise can also be a safety relais.

 

do you hear the solenoid itself clicking or just any relais?

 

like @pullstart mentioned allready, check if 12V on the Solenoid (between the black and red) wire.

if the electric is in original condition, Your tractor shall normally have a Clutch switch, that can be your problem.

when clutch pedal is not pressed or contact is wrong a safety relais will interrupt the Power to the solid state.

 

measure between the black and red wires on the solid state itself.

If seatswitch works and clutch switch works and you pressed the clutch and hit the start position you must measure 12V between this wires, otherwise your fault is somewhere in the switches or the relais.

 

[953 nut 56,016]

There are a few fuse holders and relays near the battery. With fumes from battery acid over the years these tand to become corroded. This drawing is mot the same year as yours but will give you an idea of what components are involved in getting a starter to turn over. 

4 hours ago, Bucks Toro said:

 Have to short it across the solenoid to get it running though.  Pretty sure that the solenoid is broken,

Use a small jumper wire from the battery "+" to the small terminal on your solenoid, if the starter activates the solenoid is not the problem.

[Bucks Toro 2]

10 hours ago, pullstart said:

 You should be getting 12vdc to the small red wire with the spade terminal when you turn the key.  If not, will it start if you jump from the top post to that small terminal?  Sometimes a switch might pass some voltage through, but not enough amps to make a difference.  I’ve learned it as a “ghost” voltage of sorts.  Just trying to help you narrow down the true culprit.

Thanks, I'll give that a try.  Can you tell me what all the control wires are at the bottom of the solenoid?  What do they do for the proper working of the solenoid?

[Bucks Toro 2]

9 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

The tractor model number R1-12K801 is an exported model and Toro identifies it as a 1990 model.

Expected to see a model number with an E prefix as you are in England.

Thank you.  Where did you get the model number from and know that it was an exported model?

[Bucks Toro 2]

9 hours ago, Tractorhead said:

Hi and  to   

 

Did you try to start with depressed clutch Pedal?

the clicking noise can also be a safety relais.

 

do you hear the solenoid itself clicking or just any relais?

 

like @pullstart mentioned allready, check if 12V on the Solenoid (between the black and red) wire.

if the electric is in original condition, Your tractor shall normally have a Clutch switch, that can be your problem.

when clutch pedal is not pressed or contact is wrong a safety relais will interrupt the Power to the solid state.

 

measure between the black and red wires on the solid state itself.

If seatswitch works and clutch switch works and you pressed the clutch and hit the start position you must measure 12V between this wires, otherwise your fault is somewhere in the switches or the relais.

 

Thanks, I'll check all these things and see what I find.  I guess it might not be the solenoid after all.

[Bucks Toro 2]

6 hours ago, 953 nut said:

There are a few fuse holders and relays near the battery. With fumes from battery acid over the years these tand to become corroded. This drawing is mot the same year as yours but will give you an idea of what components are involved in getting a starter to turn over. 

11 hours ago, Bucks Toro said:

 Have to short it across the solenoid to get it running though.  Pretty sure that the solenoid is broken,

Use a small jumper wire from the battery "+" to the small terminal on your solenoid, if the starter activates the solenoid is not the problem.

Thanks, I'll take a look at these.  When you say "small terminal on your solenoid" which one do you mean: the one with the red wire at the top, the other main terminal below that (going to the starter motor) or one of the control ones at the bottom?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,112]

3 hours ago, Bucks Toro said:

Thank you.  Where did you get the model number from and know that it was an exported model?

North American model numbers usually start with a number with the letters used for exported model numbers.

Even Toro was confused at the time and started adding an E to the model name to make the distinction. (312-8e)

The exported models are poorly documented at Toro with conflicting info.

There was also a R1-12K802 model but do not know the model year for sure. It would have followed your R1-12K801.

The way the the product was decaled would force a model number change. Languages and safety instructions most likely causes. Have seen different transmission model numbers used in exported tractors.

 

The black background of the hood decal was maroon in 1989. That makes your tractor at least a 1990 model and the 1989 engine would not have sat around very long.

 

Some model numbers have only shown up on the cover of a manual so we have to assume they existed.

 

Where did I get the model number? From the best info available and I could be wrong. I often make mistakes.

 

Garry

[SylvanLakeWH 26,037]

[The Tuul Crib 7,337]

T😎

[Pullstart 63,122]

5 hours ago, Bucks Toro said:

Thanks, I'll give that a try.  Can you tell me what all the control wires are at the bottom of the solenoid?  What do they do for the proper working of the solenoid?

No problem.  You can expect these types of response when you have questions on this forum.  Most of the guys and gals here are  people who you wouldn’t mind introducing to your other half... heck I even let some of them around my kids once in a while!  

 

The top post looks like it comes off the battery from the heavy wire.  The small wire on the top I’m guessing is feeding your ignition switch.  The next post down, is heading towards your starter.  The small red wire on bottom is the trigger from the key and the small black wire(s) are looking like chassis ground wires.  
 

This could all be confirmed with a DVOM (Digital Volt/Ohm Meter) that runs in the $20 area if you do not have one already.  

[953 nut 56,016]

6 hours ago, Bucks Toro said:

Thanks, I'll take a look at these.  When you say "small terminal on your solenoid" which one do you mean: the one with the red wire at the top, the other main terminal below that (going to the starter motor) or one of the control ones at the bottom?

 

[Pullstart 63,122]

[Bucks Toro 2]

2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

 

 

Couldn't be clearer, thanks!