Axle seal

[Jon D 82]

My father-in-law’s wheel horse stopped moving forward and rolled backwards into a tree today. The key broke off in hub and the hub has chunks missing from the keyway. I found a new hub on eBay and while I’m in there, I should fix the leaky axle seal. The tractor is a 12hp automatic with sunstrand transaxle. 1 1/8” axle.  I’m having trouble finding a part number for the seal

[jay bee 909]

This might help you out.        https://www.ebay.com/itm/TORO-Wheelhorse-Axle-Seals-6449-Set-of-2pc-FREE-SHIPPING/142042768245

 

And 

[Jon D 82]

Did they use the same seals for all 1 1/8” axles?

[953 nut 55,771]

9 hours ago, Jon D said:

Did they use the same seals for all 1 1/8” axles?

All Sundstrands and Eaton 1100 transaxles for  use that same seal. I have used the supplier @jay bee suggested and they were a perfect fit.

Will you be taking the transaxle apart to replace the bad axle or do you plan to repair it on the tractor? Look over this thread first.

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,096]

10 hours ago, Jon D said:

Did they use the same seals for all 1 1/8” axles?

No. Find a parts list for your model to determine the correct part number.

 

Garry

[Jon D 82]

2 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

No. Find a parts list for your model to determine the correct part number.

 

Garry

I can’t find a parts list for it, it’s a 1973 (no name) I don’t know if it would be more like a charger or a c120

Edited September 6, 2020 by Jon D

[Jon D 82]

2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

All Sundstrands and Eaton 1100 transaxles for  use that same seal. I have used the supplier @jay bee suggested and they were a perfect fit.

Will you be taking the transaxle apart to replace the bad axle or do you plan to repair it on the tractor? Look over this thread first.

 

The axle isn’t in that bad of shape, the hub itself lost 2 chunks surrounding the keyway

[ebinmaine 68,345]

 

 

Can you show a pic of the axle?

A hub with the second set screw is a big help to prevent further issues. 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,096]

Garry

[Jon D 82]

42 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Garry

Thank you! The seal listed is the same for sale up above

[Jon D 82]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

Can you show a pic of the axle?

A hub with the second set screw is a big help to prevent further issues. 

I’ll get a pic of the axle when I go back over there to take a file to it. Has some scoring around it but the keyway looks useable

[Jon D 82]

Here’s a look at how bad the hub is, it was a real hassle getting it separated. The broken key was half in the groove and flipped up into broken hub

[pfrederi 17,867]

Ouch.  normally you could broach a new key way opposite the messed up one but if that gouging goes all the way round i am afraid you are looking for a new hub

[Jon D 82]

2 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Ouch.  normally you could broach a new key way opposite the messed up one but if that gouging goes all the way round i am afraid you are looking for a new hub

I found a pair of hubs on eBay 

[Jon D 82]

Here is the axle, should clean up good with a file and sanding

[ebinmaine 68,345]

1 hour ago, Jon D said:

Here is the axle, should clean up good with a file and sanding

That'll clean up ok but the keyway is certainly a bit large. 

[lynnmor 7,354]

That axle will work the key, if you use it be sure to add the second set screw and file a flat on the axle for the new set screw to contact.  Check tightness regularly because a less than perfect fit will slowly work loose.  If it were mine, I would make an effort to find a very good axle for reasonable cost.

[Jon D 82]

33 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

That axle will work the key, if you use it be sure to add the second set screw and file a flat on the axle for the new set screw to contact.  Check tightness regularly because a less than perfect fit will slowly work loose.  If it were mine, I would make an effort to find a very good axle for reasonable cost.

As soon as I get new keys, I’ll check how tight it fits. If I have to, I can weld the corners and grind back in. Do you know what kind of steel was used on the axles?

[lynnmor 7,354]

I don’t know what steel was used but they did induction harden the area where the bearing runs.  That tells me that welding might be problematic.  If you do weld, don’t allow much heat to go inside and possibly soften the bearing surface and bearings.

[Jon D 82]

21 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

I don’t know what steel was used but they did induction harden the area where the bearing runs.  That tells me that welding might be problematic.  If you do weld, don’t allow much heat to go inside and possibly soften the bearing surface and bearings.

Locktite 660 might be a better route then. It’s made for this kind of problem 

[lynnmor 7,354]

8 hours ago, Jon D said:

Locktite 660 might be a better route then. It’s made for this kind of problem 

 

That should help with the cylindrical wear but not so much with the key wear.  Keep the set screws tight and make them do the work, once the key takes the abuse, all bets are off.

[Jon D 82]

2 hours ago, lynnmor said:

 

That should help with the cylindrical wear but not so much with the key wear.  Keep the set screws tight and make them do the work, once the key takes the abuse, all bets are off.

Locktite 660 is also marketed to fill the gap in a shaft, says to put some in the slot then press the key in and wipe off extra. Let dry and reassemble. I’ll also be adding at least one more set screw to that hub.  This machine is only used to mow a small yard and along the driveway at my in-laws. Anything heavier of work, and I use my 520h or my f20

[ebinmaine 68,345]

1 minute ago, Jon D said:

adding at least one more set screw

VERY good idea. 

It helps to add a flat surface to the axle where the 2nd screw will sit.

Better grab for the screw. 

Also, the set screw will make a small ridge on the round of the axle. 

When the hub needs to come off again it helps by not creating that ridge

Another flat where the jamb nut is on the hub. 

Helps keep things tighter, longer. 

[lynnmor 7,354]

I have used the Loctite 660, it forms what looks like a plastic shim to fill gaps.  Unless a key has just a little wear, I wouldn't think that it would stay in place but it might be better than nothing.

[AMC RULES 37,134]

LOCTITE 660 is a high strength retaining compound with good gap filling properties, ideal for repairing worn-out seats, keys, splines, bearings or tapers without remachining. LOCTITE® 660 is designed for the bonding of cylindrical fitting parts, particularly where bond gaps occurs without the need for remachining...