New member, help with identifying the year of my 312-8

[Lefty 57 54]

Hello from the UK, I am a new member to the Toro Wheelhorse forum and have just purchased my first Wheelhorse. It's a 312-8 and I am trying to find out the year it was manufactured. I have researched online and think it maybe a model made in 1991 or 1992 but I maybe years out. The model number on the silver label beneath the seat says: R112K803 and the serial number says: 1030005. The engine cowling has the words Kohler Magnum 12.5hp. I have bought it as a restoration project, it is a runner although at the moment it starts by hot wiring it against one of the solenoid pins. I will be going through the wiring as it could be a faulty ignition/key switch, a blown fuse, faulty solenoid, PTO switch, Neutral switch or oil level switch that's preventing it starting on the key. The paintwork needs restoring, the cutting deck needs a few areas of welding, the seat needs replacing, it needs headlights as they are both broken, I have also got to find the correct air filter and air filter housing....the list goes on. I have been researching the Wheelhorse garden tractors and have been searching for months to find a 312-8 as there is something about the quality of the Toro Wheelhorse that really appeals to me. I have restored many vintage lawn mowers and have wanted a garden tractor for some time. I intend to do a full nut and bolt restoration as I feel these little tractors need saving. Any help or advice I can get from fellow members is much appreciated. Sorry for long post, I am new to this site, just wanted to give out as much info as possible to help with identifying the year.  Also on the hours gauge it says :690 Hours which I think is very low for this year model. The engine certainly sounds healthy.  

[BOB ELLISON 2,976]

WELCOME TO REDSQUARE. 

I found this in the master list. There's no listing for the R1-12K803.

But I would think if the 802 was 1990.

And the 804 is 1992.

I'm pretty confident yours is a 1991

 

R1-12K802 1990 Garden Tractor 312-8 8-Speed Kohler M12S-471527

 

R1-12K804 1992 Garden Tractor 312-8 8-Speed Kohler M12S-471527

Edited August 15, 2020 by BOB ELLISON

[oliver2-44 9,080]

I restored a 312-8 several years ago for my son. I learned a lot from this forum to do it.  

We'd love to see pictures of the lawnmowers you've restored.  it's kind of like the cost of admission around here.  With your have done several lawnmowers it sounds like your quite technically qualified to tackle that 312-8. 

My 312 had patches of paint coming off like yours.  I used an E-Tank to remove all the rust and paint.  If your not familiar with an E-tank just google "e Tank, or Electrolysis Tank"  Sure saves a lot of time. 

An area you'l want to look at is where the steering shaft passes through the hoodstand.  Several people have replaced that nylon bushing with a bearing flanged bearing.   I learned about the flanged bearings a little to late to do mine.  I used a brass oillite bushing JB welded into where the nylon bushing goes.  It's still holding up. Also replacing the nylon bushing on the horizontal part of the PTO lever is a good upgrade.  

You mentioned a few cracks in the deck.  There are threads about deck rebuilds.  Since your is a later model deck it might already have a stiffener plate where the rear wheels attach to it.  That area was prone to cracking on the older decks. 

[Lefty 57 54]

Thank you Bob Ellison for such a quick reply. I agree with you about my 312-8 being a 1991 model. All my research online and matching up the decals on my garden tractor points towards it being that year.  Like you I found the K802 and K804 dates so my hunch worked out to be right. I'm looking forward to reading through the many posts on this great forum, already I have found wiring diagrams and parts lists. I'm quite sure reading through others posts on restorations is going to be a great help and very interesting. I will be a regular visitor to this forum, now at long last I have found my first Toro Wheelhorse.

[oliver2-44 9,080]

Here's the thread on my 312- I've learned a lot since then.

PS These guys turned me on to using Enamel hardner with the Rustolem Regal Red paint and I now use hardner with any oil base enamel I apply. Even used it on the kitchen cabinets and lawn furniture.  

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,690]

Welcome to the forum.

1991 is the model year as identified by the serial number.

Some reading on the model

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=R1-12K803&quick=1&type=downloads_file

 

Garry

[Lefty 57 54]

Thank you Oliver2-44, I will certainly have a look at the steering shaft bush and look into the flanged bearing upgrade. I have also written down your suggestion about upgrading the horizontal nylon bush in the PTO lever. I have literally just bought the 312-8 and brought it home a few hours ago. I am going to give it a good clean and inspection, a service, clean the carb and fuel lines. I'm then going to check the wiring, earth points and the various safety switches as my first job is to get it starting by the use of the key. It has a new solenoid fitted so i'm thinking it may well be the actual ignition/key switch as I know rain water can get into them. I have already found the wiring diagram for my Wheel horse on this forum so I can check everything is wired up correctly. It's raining here today in the UK so I cannot really start working on the 312-8. I have a cover over it now and will soon be adding double doors to one of my garden sheds. Then I can work on it in the dry, no matter what the weather.  I'm sitting indoors searching online for the correct air filter/pre filter and the actual filter cover as it's missing on my 312-8 along with looking for a replacement seat and the headlights. I will be in this forum a lot as I find it fascinating to read others posts. Already I have learnt a great amount about these great garden tractors. Regarding the paintwork, yes I have got some work to do. I will be removing panels and treating the rust. I can already see this little 312-8 will be keeping me busy for quite a while. Not that I mind as I really enjoy restoring and repairing mowers. This will be my first garden tractor restoration, I am just really pleased that after months of searching here in the UK I have now found a Wheel horse that runs, moves and still cuts grass. It is 29 years old and not always been kept indoors, it's looking a little tired now but I know with some work it will look smart again. It only has 690 hours according to the gauge and the engine certainly sounds strong.  

[Pullstart 61,028]

 Lefty!  Sounds like you're on your way to a great resto!  Many people flush the transmission with diesel fuel or kerosene and run it in circles and figure 8’s in each gear and make sure to jack up the front ad high as possible to get all contamination out as possible.  Also, jack up the frame when greasing the front end to allow the grease to where it needs to be.  One last thing on your shopping list, many people replace the headlights with LED units 

[Lefty 57 54]

Hi there Pullstart, Thank you for the advice about flushing the transmission. I'm sure it will need doing. I will be working my way around the 312-8 changing oils, filters, cleaning filters etc. I already have a list of things I want to do as soon as the weather allows and I only bought the Wheel horse home today! I will look into the Led lights as I do need replacement headlights. One thing I did notice when I was checking over the 312-8 on the panel where the ignition key/switch is mounted is a vertical row of red light indicators with "Test" by a button, when I pressed the test button, with the ignition key in the off position, engine not running, all the red lights illuminated but the "engine oil" red light was flickering on/off. Does this mean low oil? I thought it was an engine oil pressure warning light? Is it normal when the ignition is off, for the "engine oil" red light to flicker? I have checked the engine oil level on the dipstick and it is bang on the full line. The oil is dirty and will be one of the first things I change. It just seems strange to me that the engine oil test light flickers when ignition is off. Hope I am not being dim but this 312-8 is my first Wheel Horse and I am learning all the time. 

[peter lena 8,217]

LEFTY 57 , WELCOME TO THE SITE ! glad you found us, question is do you have any shops over there that would carry any of the parts that you may need ? or a local group for informational exchange? that  dirty engine oil could easily be sending off a false code. note that when you first pick up a tractor , that i will probably take a few hot oil changes to flush out the varnish build up, before your oil looks better. i would also change the oils sooner as opposed to it being filthy black , that transmission oil drains better if the front end is off the ground , also good time to grease the front end , you want grease to come out the BOTTOM of the axle bend , you have 4 fittings . 3 on front axle , lower center , 1 on each axle and 1 on lower steering shaft under cowl area , "  fan gear  " as it meets frame area. also take time to aerosol lubricate every movement / leverage area for smooth easy usage, lubricate throttle and choke cables  , for easy use. keep in touch , also check shift boot , and replace if any damage, pete

[Tractorhead 8,878]

 to 

 

 

[Lefty 57 54]

Peter Lena, Many thanks for your advice and welcoming me to this great forum. I will certainly be working my way around the 312-8 and changing, flushing out the old oils, greasing up all the various parts and lubricating cables that have dried out due to time and weather. As far as locating parts I use the well known auction site as some parts are listed from UK suppliers. There are lots of parts supplied from the USA it's just the postage costs that can prove expensive.  I also live near a vehicle breakers yard which also takes in old lawn tractors, so I usually visit them every couple of weeks and see if any Wheel horse models have appeared. They are quite handy for the lawn tractor tyres, various levers, knobs, switches etc. I've noticed on this forum there are other members also from the UK so hopefully in time I will get to know some of them and they maybe able to help with other UK parts suppliers. I constantly visit the auction site looking for other 312-8 models. They do appear now and then, in fact this last week about 4 days ago I was outbid in the last few seconds on another 312-8. It was an older model I think from the 1980's with what looked like a fibre-glass rear fender panel. It's last owner had used it in his orchards and the rear fender panel was smashed with only half remaining. It looked as if a tree had fallen on it or he had backed into a tree! It had the top of its engine cover painted black and was in running order and would have been an interesting Wheel Horse to restore.  Luckily I had been watching two 312-8's and managed to win the 1991 model I now have outside under cover on my patio. I will be a regular visitor to this forum as I find it a great place for information. With a little searching I have found many posts related to the 312-8. I also like to read about other members restorations, I'm always looking for advice and tips and will be uploading photos of my restoration as I progress. I maybe 57 years old but I am always open to advice and instruction from others who like to restore and feel quite sure I will learn a lot from the Red Square International Wheel Horse Forum.

[biged77 108]

Lefty - Welcome to Red Square!  You will enjoy restoring it I'm sure.  As for the test lights what you described is normal.  My 414-8 works the same way when the test light is pressed with the ignition switch off.  When you try to start it with the ignition switch all lights should stay off if the safety switches are in the correct position and functional.  Lights that stay on may help you troubleshoot why it won't start normally. 

 

Your model has an oil level switch not an oil pressure switch.  The oil light indicates a low oil level when trying to start.

 

One caution - Wheel Horses are known to be herd animals and tend to multiply!

[Mickwhitt 4,303]

Hi Lefty,

Im in South Yorkshire so a little way away from you.

I restored my C-125 with help from the guys on this site, sounds like you know your way around machinery.

I was pretty much a novice when I started my project but Red Square got me there.

Im doing quite a lot of mowers now and loving it. There are no repair shops anywhere nearby so I get plenty of jobs.

Good luck on the project but I'm sure you won't need it, just time and space to work on your little tractor.

Mick 

[Stormin 9,978]

'Ow do, Lofty. to  from Cumbria.

Good project you've got there. As said before, you'll get plenty of help here. Kohler parts I get from Meetens near Preston.

 

The horses do breed, so be warned.

[953 nut 53,195]

20 hours ago, Lefty 57 said:

I have bought it as a restoration project, it is a runner although at the moment it starts by hot wiring it against one of the solenoid pins.

Sounds like there could be an electrical connection that has become corroded. Once you begin working on the 312 I would suggest cleaning all connectors and using dielectric grease when putting them back together.

[Bill D 1,732]

Welcome,

 

All 300/400/500 series tractors are prone to cracking where the seat support bolts to the frame.  Plan to reinforce that area.  I use old bed frames.  Any piece of 1/8" angle stock that measures 2"x 1 1/2" will do.  I refer to this as "Fat Guy Proofing".  Here are some pictures.  Bill

Edited August 17, 2020 by Bill D

[Lefty 57 54]

Hello again good people of Red Square. May I first say thank you to everyone that has commented. Your advice and tips have all been written down in my Wheel horse diary. I have given my 312-8 an oil change as it looked pretty grubby. I now have the battery on charge, although I think I will be buying a brand new one as the one in the Tractor is not charging totally. I began working my way through the electrics, checking connections, plugs and for signs of damage or corrosion. I found a broken red wire that was just tucked under one of the nuts on the new solenoid. It now has a nice new "O" connector crimped on the wire. When I removed the battery, I could see lots of dirt, broken twigs and cobwebs. I cleaned everything out using some small dry paintbrushes and could clearly see a lot of corrosion on the pins on the ignition key switch. I removed the ignition switch securing nut and pushed the key switch behind the panel, I then removed the two locking screws that held the ignition key switch, Hour meter and an ammeter/voltmeter etc.  I have pulled the panel forward to gain better access to the various wires and plugs. One of the locking screws was rusted solid, even using WD40 it would not budge. I could see just enough gap behind the panel to get a hacksaw blade onto the screw itself. Jeez it took me over half an hour to saw through the locking screw! Anyway the screw eventually gave way and the panel was pulled forwards. With some coaxing from flat headed screwdrivers I managed to pry the black connector block away from the back of the key switch and did the same the the earth wire, a black lead with white connector block. Here is a couple of photographs of the rear of the ignition key switch and this is after I have cleaned a lot of corrosion away from the pins.  

 

Edited August 17, 2020 by Lefty 57
Spelling corrections

[Lefty 57 54]

As you can see, I think I have quite likely found one of the main reasons why my 312-8 would not start by using its key. You can see two of the pins have rusted quite badly and the pin numbered 3 in the picture was the one that held the earth cable. That pin was not only corroded it rotates around its mounting rivet so would have at some time given out an intermittent earth connection. I have already ordered a new key switch and another solenoid as I've not heard the present one click and also because its been shocked a few times by the hot wiring/starting attempts. I have taken the plastic plugs of the hours gauge and ammeter/voltmeter and given the connections a thorough cleaning. One question, how do I make sure the connectors inside the black 5 pin plug that plugs into the rear of the ignition/key switch are clean and corrosion free? any advice is most welcome. Also when I was working my way around the wiring. I noticed that the under seat switch was occasionally staying in the down position. I applied a tiny amount of penetrating oil to the plastic pin and pressed it a few times and bingo the switch clicks and pops up and down.  Okay good people its a nice dry day here so I am going outside to do some more work on my 312-8. I am cleaning as much dirt and crud as I can off the tractor and looking for any obvious faults as I go. I just want to make sure everything is clean and working before I start my strip down and rebuild. Long way to go yet, but already I am hooked by the strength and quality of these Wheel horse garden tractors. I already have the feeling this will not be my only model! Once again thank you to everyone who has offered their advice, I am learning daily more and more about these great machines. 

[953 nut 53,195]

3 hours ago, Lefty 57 said:

One question, how do I make sure the connectors inside the black 5 pin plug that plugs into the rear of the ignition/key switch are clean and corrosion free?

An old tooth brush some WD-40 and an old emery board nail file cut to size will do the trick.

[johnnymag3 2,470]

If you use a very thin flatblade screwdriver, you can insert it from the back of the Black Plug at each wire, and depress the tab on the wire connector itself...then the connector and the wire will pull out from the rear.. Clean everything, check wire connection, bend small tab back out that was depressed to disengage wire from plug, add dielectric grease and reinstal back into plug. pull gently after hearing it click in place to be sure it locked in. Do this with all 5 wires, and you are good to go.Have fun, always take pictures,

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,690]

Toro does not recognize the 1991 model number R1-12K803 but did find it on an operator manual for 1993 - Same manual 1991-1993. Guess Toro did not notice.

 

Since you are into wiring this diagram may be correct

This parts list should be close

Garry

[Lee1977 6,371]

It's a little rough aroumd the edges can be brough back it's all there. There isn't much difference in any of the 312-8s. They changed from a K-series engine to a Magnum and some had 1" axles ang added some more electrical..

Mine wasn't rusted but a lot of the electrical parts weren't there. I don't need the check light system and I added new head lights.

I've made a few modifications to mine.

 

 

 

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Edited August 21, 2020 by Lee1977

[Pullstart 61,028]

Depending on your level of ambition, you could pull that switch apart and inspect the innards.  It’s likely that is is just as dirty inside 

 

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/77467-mrs-pullstart/?page=10&tab=comments#comment-761625
 

   If you click this link, you’ll see where I pulled one apart to see how it works one time.