Onan 16 hp engine

[mort 24]

Are there kits out there that you can buy with 4 bolt holes? I sure don't need to break it.

 

Thanks,Gary

Edited September 2, 2020 by mort

[mort 24]

You mentioned breaking the flywheel if I use the HF puller. When I try to loosen the center bolt is there a good place to put a stop on the flywheel so I don't break it?

Also what would I use to keep it from turning?

Thanks,

Gary

[lynnmor 7,307]

59 minutes ago, mort said:

You mentioned breaking the flywheel if I use the HF puller. When I try to loosen the center bolt is there a good place to put a stop on the flywheel so I don't break it?

Also what would I use to keep it from turning?

Thanks,

Gary

I use an impact wrench with a block of wood held against the perimeter to reduce spinning.  Just be absolutely sure that you have it set on lefty loose.  With a standard breaker bar you can stick something like a tire tool thru the fins, but that has considerable risk.  I have set the starter ring down on wood to stop the rotation as well.

 

If the bolt does not turn freely after breaking it loose, stop and use penetrating oil for a day.  Dry or rusted threads can mess up the crankshaft.  These Onans have a number of bolts that rust in place, that is why I will never buy another one that was not garaged.

 

When reinstalling the flywheel, done carefully you can use a bar thru the fins to hold while torquing to 55 ft. lbs.  

 

Did you come up with a puller?  Do you have a machine shop nearby that can make you one?  It’s just a flat plate with 5 holes and the center one tapped.

[mort 24]

I wedged a 2 X 4 between the flywheel and the mower lift and that bolt is now free.

We just moved so I do not know what is out here.

I threw away extra steel I had laying around when I sold the house.

Thanks,

Gary

[mort 24]

Can you take a picture of your flywheel puller when you get a chance?

 

If they don't sell a universal 4 bolt puller maybe you should start selling one.LOL!

 

Thanks,

Gary

[Macgyver 90]

Hi Mort if you want to load it up for a road trip west I'm15 miles south of Rockford. 

And I can fix it!

[lynnmor 7,307]

1 hour ago, mort said:

Can you take a picture of your flywheel puller when you get a chance?

 

If they don't sell a universal 4 bolt puller maybe you should start selling one.LOL!

 

Thanks,

Gary

 

 

I actually thought of that.  I made a rear hub puller some time ago and thought I would add the flywheel holes to that and see if I could sell them.  After pricing out alloy steel I believe that they would be too costly to make many sales.

 

All you need is a piece of steel, round, square or rectangular, with holes matching the bolt pattern on the flywheel and a tapped hole in the middle.

Here is the hub puller, all it needs is 4 clearance holes for the 5/16 bolts:

 

Edited September 3, 2020 by lynnmor

[mort 24]

WOW!  Very nice! My wife thought you should sell them too. WE are both sales people so we immeciately think that way.

Thanks,

Gary

[mort 24]

1 hour ago, Macgyver said:

Hi Mort if you want to load it up for a road trip west I'm15 miles south of Rockford. 

And I can fix it!

Thank you for the offer but I have all taken apart except for the flywheel. Hopefully it is the ignition module and I can get her going again.

Thanks,

Mort

[mort 24]

Dumb question....................isn't that center bolt smaller than a 1/2" fine thread?

[lynnmor 7,307]

1 hour ago, mort said:

Dumb question....................isn't that center bolt smaller than a 1/2" fine thread?

It is actually 3/4-16 on the hub puller.  For smaller needs, I use a stepped down sleeve.

 

Here is the simple puller that I made, the center bolt is actually 1/2-13, but 1/2-20 would have been better.

 

Edited September 3, 2020 by lynnmor

[mort 24]

I need to be clear on what I am doing.

If I purchased something from HF or Napa they would provide me with the center bolt that I would be using.

If I made something what size bought and length would I need?

Is that center bolt that I took off the flywheel actually 1/2-13 and it is the same size as I am tapping on this 3/8" plate?

I am assuming the other 4 bolts I took off I would be using on this homemade flywheel puller correct?

Thanks,

Gary

 

[lynnmor 7,307]

You sure are over thinking this.  Loosen the flywheel bolt 2 turns.  Bolt a plate to the flywheel.  Put a bolt in the center and turn in till the flywheel pops.

[mort 24]

I told you I am a sales guy not a machine mechanic. I do not know what you mean loosen the flywheel bolt two turns? I have completely removed the 4 small bolts and the center bolt and they are on the table (not using them)

 

I found a guy to make the plate. He made it in 1/2" stock not 3/8" I didn't think it would matter but it complicated things as my 4 bolts I had are too short and so is my 1/2"-13 center bolt.

 

I got the longest bolt he had (2") and I bought one (2.5") at Farm & Fleet last night.

 

Ideally how long should my 4 bolts be and also the center bolt?

[lynnmor 7,307]

 

Put that long flywheel center bolt back in and snug it.  Now turn it back out about two turns.

 

Buy four 5/16-18 x one inch long grade 5 bolts to hold the plate in place.  Be sure that the bolts enter the flywheel far enough to engage it well, you don't want just a few threads holding.  The bolts do not need to be real tight.

 

The center bolt in the puller needs to contact the long center bolt for the flywheel and still have plenty of thread left.  I believe that I used a 2" long bolt that was fully threaded.  In my photo above, you can see the hardened washer that I installed on the bolt end to act as a kind of bearing, that isn't necessary but you need to watch that the center flywheel bolt doesn't re-tighten as you turn the puller bolt in.  Dressing the end of the bolt so it is smaller and smooth will help keep it from grabbing and turning the flywheel bolt.  Grease the puller bolt threads and the end.

 

Turn the center puller bolt in till the flywheel pops loose, if that doesn't happen, maybe the long center flywheel bolt turned in too far from the puller bolt grabbing it.  Recheck and try again.

[mort 24]

Sounds good!

Thanks,

Mort

[mort 24]

Got it off!

No problem when you know what you are doing.

The next one I do won't be an issue. Probably a WH 520 next.

Is there any house cleaning I need to do other than to vac out the mouse bedding and dirt before I reinstall everything?

What about cleaning the stator? If so what do I use?

Thanks,

Gary

[lynnmor 7,307]

You can use spray parts cleaner and a soft brush.  Even regular household spray cleaners are OK if you rinse with plain water and have an air hose to blow it dry.  Just be gentle with the wires and return them to where they originally were.  You are doing the right thing, it doesn't take a very thick layer of crud to greatly reduce cooling.  If you have oil seeping from the oil filter mount or anywhere, it would be a good time to replace gaskets.  Oil holds dust and helps build up crud.  Likewise, the bottom of the oil pan builds up a mess between it and the frame, use parts cleaner and a kabob stick to get those fins clean for cooler oil.  Remove the wire and clean the contact on the oil pressure switch, then reassemble with dielectric grease.  Replace the pulse hose for the fuel pump, if you cut it exactly 1 inch longer it will aid in assembly, then cut that 1 inch off when you mount the fuel pump..  If you want to make it pretty, paint the flywheel and tins with Dupli-Color DE1635 engine paint.  Of course don't get paint in the flywheel center hole.  I use a rust proofing film on the crank taper, a VERY light film of gun oil should be OK.  Some manufacturers recommend that the taper should be assembled dry to help prevent key failure, but I want some bit of rustproofing.

[mort 24]

Success!!!! Thank you so much!

I actually had everything put together on Labor Day except for the fuel pump.

I just got it started and it sounded pretty good and drove it around without the mower attached.

I have no idea when it last started as I bought it many years ago with it not working.

I have a couple of questions for you.

How do you adjust the clutch pedal on this 416-8?

The transmission is working but the clutch pedal will not come back up on its own.

It has to be pulled back with my hand.

Also I do you adjust the brake petal as it will not stop the tractor?

Thanks again for all of your help!

The next time taking of a flywheel should be a piece of cake.

Gary

 

 

[lynnmor 7,307]

The brake adjustment is in the owners manual.

 

The clutch spring is bad or missing.

 

Download the owners manual and the parts list, available in the manuals section here.

[mort 24]

Thanks!

Clutch spring was missing.

I did the brake adjustment and will try it out this week.

How do you get that brake pedal to stay more vertical?

Is there a good source for the #107069 clips, #108035 Clutch Springs and the #9108372 screws?

My normal online supplier for Wheel Horse parts is rather slow due to Covid 19.

 

Thanks,

Mort

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[lynnmor 7,307]

Google Toro and the part number, you should find a number of suppliers to choose from with a wide range of pricing and delivery.

 

Is this the issue with your brake pedal?