C-81 restomod

[Redneckdavis 308]

This is going to be a slow project probably but I figured I'd start a build thread. I bought a pulling horse and it came with this c-81 for extra parts. Also a kid's puller for my little girl. 

     Homely looking thing missing front tires, and engine. Steering was rusted seized along with pedals and linkages. Extra hood(I don't know what it fits) and back fenders came from the grass next to where it had began to rot into guys yard. Who knows what else its missing but rear end oil is clean and it rolls.

   This is the wife's tractor. She originally wanted any tractor I could modify and turn into a mini Ford 8N. She has since fell in love with the horse and wants it built as is. 

[bottjernat1 2,190]

Put a twin in her and run it! also be careful your shoes are flat on one side! LOL

[Redneckdavis 308]

This is not going to ever cut grass again, and it's not being built to drag a sled or win a race. This is just meant to be an awesome cruiser for tractor shows and possible parades and around the yard with a wagon behind it. 

So far I've aquired my powerplant, 212 predator (7hp~) nothing fancy just brand new and at a deal. With centrifugal clutch ( maybe I use mayb not).

We have decided on a narrow front, I'm going in front of frame not under. I'd like to use that cool Wheelhorse engineered steering but might go for chain and sprockets

Back fenders is in the air. I did test fit some suburban fenders but if they aren't used I've always wanted to round fender my pulling cub anyways.

I really really want a tractor with duals, and she does too. Money willing they'll be on this.

Her idea is to build it first, tricycle it, decide on the duals, and then decide on paint last. I'm good with that order as long as I sandblast and prime on my way there. 

So far I want to go Wheelhorse red and decals from a different model, with bigger cleaner bolder Wheelhorse hood lettering.

Also since it might look similar to a Allis Chalmers when done, making it a mini and replicating that is on the table. 

But I really don't want to. Wheelhorse is not near as common of a sight down here in south GA as it seems to be where y'all fellers is from. 

[Redneckdavis 308]

Here's my trike I found online for inspiration.

NOT MY PROJECT. . . Yet

[Redneckdavis 308]

22 minutes ago, bottjernat1 said:

Put a twin in her and run it! also be careful your shoes are flat on one side! LOL

Not wasting a vtwin on her. Lol. . My cub is engineless. My 2 spare motor options are 212 predator and 16hp Kohler k341. Kohler is direct fit in cub and will be temporary until I aquire a twin and mod the frame on it. Lol

 

[ebinmaine 67,390]

This could get interesting.

I'll set n watch..

 

[RandyLittrell 3,877]

The little predator would be perfect for a restomod and you would be surprised what you can do with that little motor. 

 

 

 

Randy

[Redneckdavis 308]

7 minutes ago, RandyLittrell said:

The little predator would be perfect for a restomod and you would be surprised what you can do with that little motor. 

 

 

 

Randy

I did see the eBay hotrod kit was $180 jetted carb, header pipe and cold air intake. 

My neighbors would not know what to think if I had a quiet toy. 

[Redneckdavis 308]

Hey guys,  So I have my fenders, and my round seat will be coming in directly. 

All of that is going to have to be custom fab from the rear end, up. 

 

For those with duals, or pics of them, I have some questions. 

What size tires and rims are y'all running? Is there a size cheaper or more common ( I was thinking 12" diameter wheel was standard)? 

 

Bang for the buck and ease of fabrication, what's the best ways or way to attach them?

 

I like the wheels on it, and I could see those doubled but idk how easy it will be to find a matching pair. Maybe they are dime a dozen, I'm just trying to do my research

[oliver2-44 9,725]

Here's a drawing to fab your own spacers

 

[Redneckdavis 308]

Ohk. Thanks. I see the carriage square holes now I'm home to look.   

Do you pull it tight against the first wheel or double nut so they don't touch?

[Redneckdavis 308]

Came with this stuff. What is the middle piece? I have no clue what the hood fits, it not this.

And is the the proper belt cover? Or should I even need one? 

 

Oh. And that stainless is sitting on just might be my new trailer metal:) 

Edited July 29, 2020 by Redneckdavis

[ebinmaine 67,390]

It's preferred that the tires don't touch so the sides don't overheat and blow out. 

Maybe not a huge concern on a 5 mph tractor but on the street it's a big issue. 

 

Also - the outside tires should have almost no air pressure so they "give/squish"  over bumps. That puts less strain on the axles. 

[ebinmaine 67,390]

3 minutes ago, Redneckdavis said:

What is the middle piece? I have no clue what the hood fits, it not this.

And is the the proper belt cover? Or should I even need one? 

Not sure about the middle piece but the belt cover looks about right. 

 

You DO need a belt guard. 

 

The belt GUARD is the belt GUIDE. 

No clutching without it. 

 

 

[Redneckdavis 308]

20 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

It's preferred that the tires don't touch so the sides don't overheat and blow out

Other than that, the rubbing rims could try to uncenter theirselves I would think.interesting about tire pressure. I think I read that probably from you in a different post. Too much leverage, I can see that.

Ten4 on belt guard. I'll figure out how to attach later. But..... A centrifugal clutch and an always tight belt would change things? I do have that on my predator already. And With a separate brake pedal already, that wouldn't be that unsafe. same as go cart 

[Pullstart 62,829]

Sounds like a fun project!  Here is a build that might give you some ideas...

 

 

[ebinmaine 67,390]

9 hours ago, Redneckdavis said:

Other than that, the rubbing rims could try to uncenter theirselves I would think.interesting about tire pressure. I think I read that probably from you in a different post. Too much leverage, I can see that.

Ten4 on belt guard. I'll figure out how to attach later. But..... A centrifugal clutch and an always tight belt would change things? I do have that on my predator already. And With a separate brake pedal already, that wouldn't be that unsafe. same as go cart 

 

The potential for the rims to be touching each other is going to be dependent on the type and width of tire that you use. Often, the tire is wider than the rim so they will touch first and especially on the bottom where they're usually is a slight bulge.

 

I've seen three types of spacers being used.

Round 5 hole spacers which simply bolt wheel to wheel through the lugs.

Square 4 whole spacers witch bolt through the weight carrying holes in the rim.

Another way to do it is with 12 inch PVC pipe used as a spacer at the outside of the rim and then appropriate length carriage bolts or threaded rod through the above-mentioned 4 holes.

An advantage to using this method is that there is no space between the outside of the rims for debris to get into such as rocks dirt grass etc. 

 

 

If you're going to use a centrifugal clutch you can certainly leave the belt tight all the time.

 

At that point the belt guard would be for safety reasons, of course.

 

 

I think you're right about the relationship of the throttle dropping and being able to use the brake.

 

A couple things to throw out there for you to keep in mind.

 

Horse manual transmissions are not designed to be shifted on the fly. You probably will know that already. 

Just keep in mind that if you're going to be in 3rd gear using a centrifugal clutch it could be a little jumpy at take off. Just something to get used to.

 

The other thing is about the brakes on these. I'm not very familiar with Go karts at all so they may be the same. You will only have a brake on one rear wheel.

 

[Redneckdavis 308]

Pullstart . Thanks for that thread. Not alot of fab details or explanation. But That guy definitely has my vision but he traded duals for a mower deck. Thank God I don't have a deck, I'd have to do that too.. Soo cool. The thought of a mid mount blade is intriguing.

 

[953 nut 55,155]

11 hours ago, Redneckdavis said:

I have no clue what the hood fits

The hood firs a GT-14, 1969 to 1973

Here is a thread I did on the narrow front on my 953.

 

[Redneckdavis 308]

Thanks for the great Information. 

I guess my wheel spacers are to be determined later.

I'm going to try to give the cent clutch a shot, if it works I'll build a custom guard to keep pants out, (then again my 91 Springer Softail had a 3in belt drive,no guard...ok I admit, it did eat pants when you walked it backwards and redlights)

i don't see why it would be any different upon engagement as a mini bike.or gocart, those are generally built for twice the ground speed or more.

But if not then I'll figure out the original way.

The brake is a great point. I'm familiar with the location and all the pivot points I been spraying with pb blaster but I had not realized it's only one wheel. I figured it was a trans brake.

If I speed it up I'll have to keep that in mind.

[Redneckdavis 308]

20 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

The hood firs a GT-14, 1969 to 1973

Here is a thread I did on the narrow front on my 953.

 

Ohk, I definitely have no use for that hood. Maybe someone on here will need it.

 

Nice write-up. What style is my steering? I have been brainstorming on how to use it. Possibly extending it and putting 90° /spider gears on like a Farmall or JD tractor. 

I know the chain and sprockets, or tie rod from the box like a regular GT would be easier. I just think that takes a little WH away from it, I like the WH design bc I've never seen it on anything else. 

Edited July 30, 2020 by Redneckdavis

[953 nut 55,155]

3 minutes ago, Redneckdavis said:

What style is my steering?

You have a "Fan Gear" steering setup and it can be modified to a drag link like the 953 by mounting a bell crank to change the side to side motion to front to rear.

[ebinmaine 67,390]

1 hour ago, Redneckdavis said:

figured it was a trans brake

You are correct there. It is a transbrake. It slows down the transmission exactly as you would expect. However because you have an open differential you are only going to be slowing down whichever wheel has the least amount of traction. Exactly the same as if you were going to be driving it forward.

 

[Redneckdavis 308]

953 that gets my wheels turning. I could use a bell crank setup at the front corner of the frame. That would utilize the stock setup and then a short link to a point on the side.of the pedastal. Since my axle will be set foward of stock location as 82caddy placed his. 

 

Eb your absolutely correct on the open diff. However unless your in the pretty near worst conditions the diff will share the brake load to both. It is more effective than say a single disc on a single freewheeling tire. As long as I stay near stock or twice stock ground speed, I'm not concerned

 

The first mower(back in middle school) I ever hopped up was a MTD variable size center pulley set up. I went twice engine diameter pulley, so twice ground speed. With a wire ran to the governor,(bc I didn't know how to properly remove) 3/8 washer as a handle, dad's gps in hand, I hit 22mph. The stock braking never failed me. It had a stock set of "turf savers" on it and I remember my neighbors threatened to go tell my parents about the ruts I cut in the dirt road while doing donuts. The front bearings were gone to the point I put sheet metal over the stamped axle end to keep it from rubbing a hole in my tire. I was alot younger and dumber but the only time that thing almost killed me was when it flipped backwards climbing a hill. 

This one will be alot safer and slower.

[Redneckdavis 308]

Uhoh. Seat came in:) $30 eBay.  another part down.

Something like this. The Burban fenders come with a recessed place(for gas tank?) . I'm going to try to use this, to set the seat in bc it's soooooo wide. Go too wide on fenders they hit inside tires, too skinny and seat will have to be above them.

I'm going for low seat, levelish with fenders like my puller. I think someone with more time and skill than me cut the center out of a stock square pan and welded back together on here