Charger Hydro loose idler linkage?

[ebinmaine 68,331]

Take a peek at the video and see the wobbleyness in the pulley.

Note that when I hold it down it mostly stops.

 

What should I be looking to fix/adjust/repair?

 

I did find a loose pivot. Maybe the spring should have more tension?

 

What say you Redsquare?

 

 

 

[953 nut 55,769]

Your idler just takes up the slack on the belt. the bottom part of the belt is being pulled by the engine drive pulley. A little vibration seems normal to me,     unless both of my Hydros have a problem.

[daveoman1966 3,762]

I have a Bronco 14 with the same ANNOYING rattle issue...from exactly the same source...  Flat Idler bouncing around.  My fix was easy....just hook up a tension spring like this to stop the rattle.  Your Charger has all the same hardware, EXCEPT for the engagement lever, so I don't know if you could arrange some sort of spring to minimize the rattle, or not.   

[squonk 41,321]

You can tighten the pivot up by welding the hole shut and redrilling. Then weld on a new pin.

[bottjernat1 2,190]

I agree with @squonk Hey whatever works. I dont think i have seen anybody put a spring there before. 

Edited July 27, 2020 by bottjernat1

[ebinmaine 68,331]

On 7/27/2020 at 8:14 AM, squonk said:

You can tighten the pivot up by welding the hole shut and redrilling. Then weld on a new pin.

So I know it's only been 5 months but I'm finally coming around to dealing with this rattle.....

 

@squonk which pivot do you mean?

 

Seems there may be multiple locations loose on this one. 

 

Should I use copper bushings and tighten up a few?

 

[squonk 41,321]

14 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

So I know it's only been 5 months but I'm finally coming around to dealing with this rattle.....

 

@squonk which pivot do you mean?

 

Seems there may be multiple locations loose on this one. 

 

Should I use copper bushings and tighten up a few?

 

Pin on 6-27 wears down. Corresponding hole on 6-17 gets egg shaped. Make and weld on a new pin. Weld the oblong hole shut, metal finish and re-drill to proper size.

 

https://www.partstree.com/models/61-16ks02-c-160-toro-lawn-tractor-1976/6-000-brake-clutch-speed-control-linkage-4/

[gt14rider 797]

Tightened things up with brass bushings, grommets, welded up holes

[ebinmaine 68,331]

@gt14rider

Beautiful work there. 

Can't quite tell from the pictures on this phone.  Is that a brass or copper rod you're using as a welding spacer?

[gt14rider 797]

 

9/16 brass rod.  I Put a brass bushing on pivot point,should help with wear from E brake lever . Also welded and smoothed holes in lever

[ebinmaine 68,331]

28 minutes ago, gt14rider said:

 

9/16 brass rod.  I Put a brass bushing on pivot point,should help with wear from E brake lever . Also welded and smoothed holes in lever

Very nice. 

 

Looks like I need to fire up the ole buzz box. 

[oliver2-44 9,853]

Weld will not stick to brass or copper so you can use a rod to help build up a hole, or a flat piece to completely fill in a hole 

[ebinmaine 68,331]

7 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

Weld will not stick to brass or copper so you can use a rod to help build up a hole, or a flat piece to completely fill in a hole 

Watched a couple videos on that. 

Cool stuff. 

 

[ebinmaine 68,331]

I wanted to take a minute to post what I'd done here. 

My welding setup is exterior only and snow is pretty much surrounding the bench. 

I decided to get some bushings and try JB Weld. Worst it could do is not work for long. 

 

The idler shaft was WELL worn into the sheet metal that supports it. 

The size difference was varying from 3 or 4 thousandths to about 9.  Nice oblong hole. 

I bought a couple steel bushings 1/2" ID to 5/8" OD. Sanded the rust off the shaft til it went through then drilled the sheet metal to accept the bushings. 

I coated the outside of the bushings with JB and pushes them in to place. 

Cleaned up the excess and put the shaft in place so everything would dry straight. 

 

 

The pivot pin on the brake handle was also extremely loose. 

The pin was rusted to the point of being out of round and mushroomed at the end. 

 

Sooooo me and my Dremel had some fun. 

I found a copper bushing that was just a little too tight for both inside and outside diameters. 

 

Put a little grindstone on and made the pin as close to round as I could starting on the bench grinder to remove the biggest parts. 

 

I then put a chainsaw sharpener diamond bit in and did the same thing to the corresponding hole. 

Last thing was to cut a notch for the cotter pin. 

 

Install bushing... Voila!

 

 

 

 

 

[RandyLittrell 3,885]

I bet it will last longer than you think! 

 

 

 

Randy

[Handy Don 12,460]

7 minutes ago, RandyLittrell said:

I bet it will last longer than you think! 

 

 

 

Randy

 -- and clever too!

[ebinmaine 68,331]

5 hours ago, Handy Don said:

 -- and clever too!

Thanks. 

 

Use what ya have. 

 

One of the favorite sayings around here. 

[Handy Don 12,460]

Well dang. Today being warmer (42, up from the 20's) I decided to get after an intermittent rattle that's been bugging me in the 520 chassis somewhere.

Finally tracked it down to the shaft supporting the drive belt tensioner. It's the same issue that @ebinmaine had with his--wallowed out sheet metal supporting the shaft. As soon as I get a couple of bushings (and fresh JBWeld), I'm gonna fix it the same way!

[ebinmaine 68,331]

7 hours ago, Handy Don said:

fresh JBWeld

Funny you'd mention that. 

I realized the other day my own JB Weld is WELL over 20 years young. 

 

Might be time for a newer package here too.