Mower Deck Belt "Whippy" / Question as to Part Numbers on 48" Deck, Model 48305 Serial 0548MSO3

[hotajax 223]

Drive belt from PTO to Mower deck is very loose. That is, it whips from side to side. It's worse between the mower deck and the mule drive that re-directs the belt upwards to the PTO.   I'm thinking I have a bearing problem at the center spindle. Since all the spindle does is hold the bearings and the spacer, what else is in there? I have seen this whipping action with two belts now. The tighter I make the belt the worse the problem gets. Also, if you're cutting in grass that's not too long or thick, the whipping action decreases. If you're going through heavy grass it gets worse. Is this bearings or something else? I replaced the pulleys up on the pivot point, they are in good shape.

 

As far as the belt being whippy and dancing around, it is a genuine Toro belt, made for this precise application. 

Other Question: Old Wheel Horse diagrams I have,  they show two different part numbers for the two bearings inside each spindle. Are they different sizes  or just different numbers because they are in two different places on the spindle?  Did Wheel Horse really put two different sized bearings in the same spindle?  Doesn't seem to make too much sense if they did that.

I found aftermarket bearings on ebay, 6 for about $30. Says its for Toro numbers 106084 and 106085.  According to the diagrams I have each spindle has a single 106084 and a single 106085 in each spindle.  Go figure.

Have any of you replaced these bearings? Were they actually different sizes? Thanks for reading.  Any suggestions on how to get the belt from dancing around?  I'm afraid that oscillation could cause damage.  Thank you.   Just holding my breath that the bearings don't squeal and lock up on me. 

Edited July 14, 2020 by hotajax
Clean Up Spelling

[daveoman1966 3,745]

1) whipping belt:..  That PTO to deck belt s/b # 102742 or update number of 94-2501.  It should also be on the INNER 'V' of the PTO bell...NOT the outside 'V'.  If that is kosher, MAYBE there is an issue with the BELT TENSION Pulley and FLOATING flat bar that the idler pulley is on.  That FLOATING bar MUST be free to float...or the constant tension on the spindle pulleys will be lost....MAYBE contributing to the FLOPPY PTO belt.

2)  Bearings 106084 and 106085.  These are the exact same size...one is SHIELDED on one side and the other is NOT shielded at all...just an open-side bearing.  The SHIELDED one goes on the BOTTOM end of the spindle. One set for each spindle.  NOTE.. these bearings are 3/4" ID for the 3/4" spindle shafts that have a WOODRUFF key...pulleys are also keyway slotted.  

 

Edited July 14, 2020 by daveoman1966

[peter lena 8,583]

I  would also check the spring tension belt slide  pulley , if the lower slide bar is caked with grass or crud , it cannot let the spring tension pulley load the belt, giving you that belt bounce. take off the belt guard covers  and watch whats going on , you might have 2 or 3 areas that are not working as they should. i agree with others above , on possible areas , from what you are saying its more than one area of problem . have you cleaned out the bottom of the deck ? drop the deck and remove it , let us know what you find , pete

[hotajax 223]

Gents, thanks for taking a look at this.  What I didn't hear from anybody was to replace the bearings.  So maybe I was marching off in the wrong direction.  I will get to work on this, I haven't cleaned out the junk from inside the belt guard on the deck in a couple of years.  So, maybe the real problem is sloth.  Thanks again. 

[peter lena 8,583]

hotajax , replacing the bearings would be along with a total rebuild , i think if you were to correct the belt drive issue ,that can get you back to mowing. by the way when i rebuild spindles , i  remove the inner bearing shields , so the spindle housing can be a grease reservoir, i use lucas red and tacky grease and hand pack the bearings , very high 550 drop point ,insures extremely quiet and long reliability  from bearings. getting you back to mowing  is important , then you can zero in on any other issues as you mow and listen . idler pulleys tend to fail and get noisy early , a red liquified grease really helps . let is know how you make out , pete

[dcrage 627]

Just as an aside. I was able to calm my deck belt on my 37” SD by LOOSENING the tension on the mule drive slightly. Not sure why this worked but it did lessen the belt whipping. 

[hotajax 223]

DC:  I tried that one, no good.  It calmed it down a little, but still not happy.  Thanks for taking a whack.  Hot Ajax

[hotajax 223]

WHAT I FOUND:

 

I pulled off the deck covers.  Not that much in clippings to interfere with anything.  Sat the little woman on the tractor, fired up the engine, and she engaged PTO.  I looked at all the pulleys, they are all snug.  They are all quiet, I don't hear any bearing noise.  The idler pulley turns freely.  I didn't see any movement of the pulleys except for rotation.  The deck belt ( the one that turns the spindles and the idler ) is snug, no sloppiness at any speed. 

I looked at the drive belt and noted where the wobble is.  The belt comes off the bottom of the PTO and goes around the top of the OUTER pulley on the mule drive.  From the mule drive back to the center spindle is where there is belt wobbling.  I don't hear any bearing noise from the mule drive. 

 

The outer pulley on the mule drive is brand new Stens, and the drive belt is brand new Toro belt. 

 

The problem that I see is outside the deck, and all between the mule drive and center spindle.  Next trick will be to remove the pulleys from the deck drive and give them a spin without a load. 

 

Other Question:

 

There are two spacers on the mule drive, also referred to by  Wheel Horse and Toro and the pulley box.  In what order do the spacers go on the bracket? 

 

 

[daveoman1966 3,745]

Just because the Idler Pulley turns freely is less critical than...Does The Flat Bar the Idler pulley is mounted to bounce back and forth under the Spring Tension, or does it NOT float at all... That flat bar MUST be able to move or 'float' freely.   

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,033]

Front idler assembly mule

1/2" long spacer part number 101757 is on the outside between the pulley and cover.

5/8" long spacer part number 101734 is between the pulleys.

Spacer ID needs to slip over 3/4" shaft.

 

Garry

[hotajax 223]

1 hour ago, daveoman1966 said:

Just because the Idler Pulley turns freely is less critical than...Does The Flat Bar the Idler pulley is mounted to bounce back and forth under the Spring Tension, or does it NOT float at all... That flat bar MUST be able to move or 'float' freely.   

DaveOMan:  The flat bar moves freely, I checked that early on.  you can see the bar moving back and forth.  It doesn't move much, but it does move to keep tension on the belt.  Thank you.

[hotajax 223]

1 hour ago, gwest_ca said:

Front idler assembly mule

1/2" long spacer part number 101757 is on the outside between the pulley and cover.

5/8" long spacer part number 101734 is between the pulleys.

Spacer ID needs to slip over 3/4" shaft.

 

Garry

Thanks Garry.  The outboard pulley (flat pulley ) is new, the inside one ( the V-Pulley ) is an antique.  It may be 35 years old.  I don't believe I ever replaced that inboard pulley.  Thanks for the info. 

[hotajax 223]

13 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Front idler assembly mule

1/2" long spacer part number 101757 is on the outside between the pulley and cover.

5/8" long spacer part number 101734 is between the pulleys.

Spacer ID needs to slip over 3/4" shaft.

 

Garry

Garry:  PS- Forgot to tell you how impressed I am that you have that level of detail memorized. 

[hotajax 223]

Thanks, gents.  All fixed up.  Inner v-pulley on the mule drive was the guilty party.

 

Anyone know where I can find the link for how to post pics?