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D_Mac

Do I or Don't I ? I did it AGAIN !!! Someone stop me !!

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SylvanLakeWH

Nice!

 

:popcorn:

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Tractorhead

Horses tend to Herd, so how we can stop you???:laughing-rolling:

 

other Brand will be simply assimilated into the Herd. :confusion-shrug:

No chance we can do anything against..

 

btw. Nice Tractor 

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D_Mac

Anyone have an idea whats on the back of it?

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WHNJ701
29 minutes ago, D_Mac said:

Anyone have an idea whats on the back of it?

weight for the snowblower 

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D_Mac
17 minutes ago, jabelman said:

weight for the snowblower 

I think you are right. I just ran out in the rain to take a better look. Looks like just weights. Wish it would stop pouring out so I can take a better look at it all. Looks like a car battery in it as well. Can we talk about the size of that starter. Over kill for an 7hp dont you think ? So what I have read this is an off brand of Allis Chalmers ? Does anyone know the reason why it pivots before the rear wheels? It twists there. I know its designed to do it but why?

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D_Mac

Maybe @WHEELHORSEFAN*19 can give me some pointers or info on this.

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gwest_ca

Found the 990489 model number and then the manuals for the 727

https://www.simplicitymfg.com/eu/en_gb/search.html?searchrequested=990489

 

Manuals for 990477 snowthrower

https://www.simplicitymfg.com/eu/en_gb/search.html?searchrequested=990477

 

Garry

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D_Mac
11 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Found the 990489 model number and then the manuals for the 727

https://www.simplicitymfg.com/eu/en_gb/search.html?searchrequested=990489

 

Manuals for 990477 snowthrower

https://www.simplicitymfg.com/eu/en_gb/search.html?searchrequested=990477

 

Garry

Sweet.. thanks Garry

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elcamino/wheelhorse

It twists in the middle because engineers designed it and no body has any idea why.  It takes some getting use to the ride.

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ebinmaine

Nice save D.

Really is a cute little guy.

 

The center twist ... Is it side to side like a front end loader? Pivot steer AND the front wheels steer??

 

 

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elcamino/wheelhorse

The front wheels steer , the rear articulates with ground. If the ground on the right side is higher than the left , the right side rear tire rises. No pivot point on the front axle . It a strange set up , on level ground you don't notice the difference . If you take a good look at the front axle you can see  where it is welded to the frame. See the last picture. 

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oliver2-44

Can you block it up on the truck and pull and fix the tires  The you can reinstall them and it’s a roller

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WHNJ701

Looks nice, I would keep it all original, clean and shine it up.  they are kind of an odd tractor never really held much in value.  might want to check our the simplicity forum for more info

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D_Mac

Yes @ebinmaine it is a weird design. The  front axle is stantionary, most front axles pivot in the center. This pivots the rear end. @elcamino/wheelhorse explained perfectly. I wonder how many riders fell off before they changed this design ? @oliver2-44 I plan on bringing over to my friends house tomorrow as I have no room to put it again. I sold the C-161 and had a spot cleared in my garage but the guys painting my house have all there stuff in there now. I will have to wait until they finish. I took the back weights off. I wish I would have removed them when I was loading it !!! Should make getting it off the truck easier. I will just get tubes for the tires and put them in at my friends. Then I will see about getting it running. @jabelman yes the paint on it is great for being 1969. Couple small rust spots but it shines nice. Funny it has sat in a garage under cover for many years and one day with me and its out in the pouring rain. I did spray it down with degreaser in the back of my truck, let the rain wash it off. Cant wait to get my hands on it. Look how nice it looks just from letting the rain wash it off. I LOVE the wood grain decals ! Reminds me of an old station wagon I had.

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D_Mac

Worked on it today. Took it to my cousins house and we got all 4 tires back on the rims and full of air. Jacked it up in the back of my truck and took one wheel off at a time. Since I had to take the hub caps off I hit them up with some soap and steel wool. Made a big improvement. Next I took the seat off because it was trashed. Vinyl was all coming off and the padding falling apart. Not sure how to fix a seat. Anyone help me with that? In the mean time I drill some holes in this seat I took off the Wheel Horse C-161. Its not very good either but at least you can sit on it. I can remove it to put the original seat back on if I can figure out some way to improve it. After that I took the air filter off, poured a lil gas down in the carb. Hooked a jump box to the starter and ground and it fired right up. I knew it would. If you look close at this thing you can tell that it didnt get much use. All the original paint on the engine. Shinney and clean. Even the muffler as barely any rust on it. I need to get new battery cables, new battery, flush the gas tank, new fuel lines and fuel filter, new plug, new air filter, fresh oil, and grease and lube it all. Then I will get my tooth brush out and clean and polish it. Was nice to give it a good look over today. It is in great shape for being 51 years old. Placed the snow blower attachment onto a plastic pallet. Once I get it running I will monkey with that thing. Even the blower still has excellent paint. very little use on both the tractor and the blower. Just wish it had a mowing deck.

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D_Mac

Well I worked on it today and made a few discoveries. The engine is supposed to be a 7hp Briggs # 171702. This one has a Briggs # 191700 making it an 8hp. So some where in its life time it was replaced. Since its replacement I do not think it was used much do to how new and fresh everything looked. Pulled the battery and fuel tank and to make that easier the steering wheel was also removed. I wanted to flush the tank and put gas in it to see how it runs to know if I should order a new carb or not. Took the bowl off seemed real clean. Sprayed some carb cleaner through it all. Thinking the carb was going to be fine. Well while flushing the tank I noticed a tiny pin hole on the bottom of the tank.... it was leaking. Being that you fill the gas tank through the hood I didnt want to try and figure out where and how to mount another tank so I decided to see if my cousin could solder it. Brought the tank over to his house and he lead soldered it. No more leaks. Hopefully no new holes will pop up. So tomorrow I will put new fuel lines and fuel filter on it. Change the oil and see if I can start it. Then I need to get a battery for it and replace the battery cables. Any thoughts on a battery? Do I need to replace it with a full size battery or will a smaller tractor battery be fine? Not going to get the cables until I know what battery I am going with. The battery I pulled out was an Interstate Workaholic Sp-22NF. Rather not buy such an expensive battery if a cheap tractor battery will do. Let me know your thoughts. @squonk you have an opion? Thanks

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squonk

All you need is a cheap Wal Mart battery.  Just be sure you get one with the terminals in the correct position. 

 

You also might want to replace that white fuseholder with an automotive blade fuse holder. Those white ones are know to cause issues as they get old.

Edited by squonk

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D_Mac

Thank You. Not sure how to swap out the fuse. I dont have any fittings or anything either. I would be just twisting wires together and wrapping with tape. I will look when I go get a battery and battery cables today. 20 amp ? 15 amp?

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squonk

Go to Harbor Fright and pick up a solderless terminal kit and a crimper. Strip the wires stick them in a butt connector and crimp

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D_Mac

Well you know what they say ... " nothings easy " . I got a new battery, new battery cables, new fuel lines and fuel fitler. Had the gas tank repaired. Installed them all, turned the key, and nothing ! No turning the engine over, no click, no nothing. Ouch. So while I still had it all together I wrapped a rope around it gave it a pull and it started but would only run if I had choke wide open. So it looks like its back to the drawing board. I have to pull the tank and the battery out again to get to the solenoid. Not exactly sure how to test the key switch. Comes to electrical problems I am the worst. It is at my friends house so I am limited to when and how long I can work on it. I am disappointed as I thought it would fire right up. Guess I can just rebuild the carb and wrap the rope around it if I cant figure it out. I know when it was at my cousins we used a jump box right to the S/G and it started. So I am guessing its my ground, or the key switch, or the solenoid. Disappointing.... I was thinking I would be riding it today.... Nothings easy.

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71_Bronco

Very nice score, especially for that price. Love the blend of curves and angles, always thought these were sharp looking machines.

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squonk

Depending on how it's wired (or was wired) it could be that fuse holder I mentioned that I see you didn't change. :) I don't see any lights on that thing so I don't know what else that fuse is for. Check your wires on the ammeter too.electrician-smiley-emoticon.gif.0db621b2e3611b2cbeccc89cec803641.gif

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D_Mac

@squonk That fuse goes to the Amp meter. I checked the fuse it was good. Since electrical isnt my strong suit I am thinking I might just use a rope to start it and not play with the electric start. I am wondering what can I get for it in the end. Really dont want to put a lot of money into it. I wont be working on it again for a few days. Still at my friends house. He was going to look at it see what he finds.

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squonk

Where does the other end of the fuse go? The fuse isn't the problem, it's the spring inside the holder that's the problem. They rust, they corrode,they break and they don't allow electricity to flow. You would get a hell of a lot more for it if it started with the key.

Edited by squonk
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