Switching to full synthetic engine oil

[BZilly 15]

Hello Gents, I'm a new owner of a 2000 520Lxi. It's a awesome tractor which came with a mower deck, snow blower attachment, plow blade and a Trailor...great condition and I will be spending the next few days going over it ie, cleaning changing fluids, plugs etc.

Would there be any issues with switching to synthetic engine oil?  Also, I would like a bagger for it but don't think I will be able to find one so I'm go to   McGuiver the one from my old tractor. Any pics or suggestions would be appreciated...

Thanks Wheelhoarsers

[Guest 88vic]

No issues with switching to synthetic. There will be tons of mixed feelings and opinions on this subject. I myself have switched back and forth numerous times. I buy whatever is on sale with one stipulation. I get oil that has a decent amount of zinc in it, these engines need all the dinosaur oil they can get. Kawasaki brand, kohler brand and rotella brand oil would be what I'd go after. Helps with valve guides, valve seals, rings and if applicable hydraulic lifters, the lifters will get loud and tap hard if regular motor oil that is used in today's automobiles is used. Been to enough Kawasaki and kohler update schools, they always push to use these oils to help preserve your engine. Just my 2 cents, now someone can come along and disagree with me.

[The Tuul Crib 7,336]

I agree with Brady on the Shell Rotella 30 weight is the best way to go it has a good amount of zinc in it and that's all I use in my tractors.

[lynnmor 7,302]

I doubt that you will find a synthetic with a "decent" amount of zinc.  Oils with the SN rating have reduced ZDDP, I use the previous rating of SL. and that is getting harder to find.  Oil for diesel engines may have more zinc, but you take the chance that it may not be the best for gasoline engines.  I use the Kohler brand oil and the TSC Traveller oil.  When looking at the API label, the S ratings are for spark ignition (gas) engines, and the C ratings are for compression ignition (diesel) engines.

[ebinmaine 67,271]

 

 

 

I'm of the mindset that the most important thing is to 

 

Change the oil on time.....

 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,032]

2 hours ago, BZilly said:

  Also, I would like a bagger for it but don't think I will be able to find one so I'm go to   McGuiver the one from my old tractor. Any pics or suggestions would be appreciated...

Thanks Wheelhoarsers

Would this one work?

Garry

[JoeM 7,871]

If you are serious about the synthetic with zinc oil, and want full protection... then Mobil 1 racing oil is a oil that complies. They have various viscosity ranges. I am really not a brand pusher, but I had a a modern hot rod and it called specifically for that oil in 0w40. When I researched and I found that it had a high amount of anti wear zinc and such. $8 a quart, I use it in my Kubota CH20 gas engine and change it every 100 hours. 

Welcome to RS 

I have a 520Lxi, 60" deck, that I use as a back up mower, and there are two things that really showed up that I did not foresee. One thing is it uses 1/3 the fuel than the Kohlers, and second the machine is much cooler to operate, (the operator gets less heat), being water cooled must be more efficient. ???

[SylvanLakeWH 25,490]

41 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

I'm of the mindset that the most important thing is to 

 

Change the oil on time.....

 

 

 

 

and @ebinmaine... man you eat a lot of popcorn... 

 

[ebinmaine 67,271]

4 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

 

 

and @ebinmaine... man you eat a lot of popcorn... 

 

And drink a lot of soda too!!

 

[tom2p 2,394]

5 hours ago, lynnmor said:

I doubt that you will find a synthetic with a "decent" amount of zinc.  Oils with the SN rating have reduced ZDDP, I use the previous rating of SL. and that is getting harder to find.  Oil for diesel engines may have more zinc, but you take the chance that it may not be the best for gasoline engines.  I use the Kohler brand oil and the TSC Traveller oil.  When looking at the API label, the S ratings are for spark ignition (gas) engines, and the C ratings are for compression ignition (diesel) engines.

agree - zinc is just about gone in most (if not all) contemp synthetic oils for automotive / gas engines because it fouls cat converters 

 

[tom2p 2,394]

7 hours ago, BZilly said:

Hello Gents, I'm a new owner of a 2000 520Lxi. It's a awesome tractor which came with a mower deck, snow blower attachment, plow blade and a Trailor...great condition and I will be spending the next few days going over it ie, cleaning changing fluids, plugs etc.

Would there be any issues with switching to synthetic engine oil?  Also, I would like a bagger for it but don't think I will be able to find one so I'm go to   McGuiver the one from my old tractor. Any pics or suggestions would be appreciated...

Thanks Wheelhoarsers

one potential issue with switch to synthetic is possibility of seep or leak past a seal 

 

not due to seal deterioration or incompatibility - basically because the multi-viscosity synthetic oils  flow better at low temps 

straight 30 grade conventional oil might not find its way - but the synthetic often will

 

[953 nut 55,071]

13 hours ago, WHEELHORSEFAN*19 said:

these engines need all the dinosaur oil they can get. . Helps with valve guides, valve seals, rings

        God put dinosaurs on the earth millions of years ago for a reason,   don't mess with God's plan!

I have been using the Tractor Supply house brand oil for years and am very happy with it.

Traveller Diesel Engine Oil SAE 30

Traveller Diesel Engine Oil SAE 30 is specially engineered for heavy duty diesel and gasoline engines operating under all services conditions. Contains only high viscosity index lubricating oils and a unique blend of detergents, dispersants, anti-oxidants, friction modifiers and viscosity improvers to provide superior performance and protection.

• Reduces friction to extend engine life and improve fuel economy
• Neutralizes and disperses combustion by-products to prevent harmful deposits
• Excellent low temperature flow properties to speed cold starts
• High film strength stands up to stress of high temperature and high load operating conditions

[JoeM 7,871]

Your 520 LXI Kawasaki engine is a modern, pressure lubricated and filtered engine, it calls for 10w-30. 

[BZilly 15]

8 hours ago, tom2p said:

agree - zinc is just about gone in most (if not all) contemp synthetic oils for automotive / gas engines because it fouls cat converters 

 

Sounds like I should stick with the sae 30

 

thanks Tractor Junkie

 

[lynnmor 7,302]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

Traveller Diesel Engine Oil SAE 30

 

 

I checked my jugs and the rating was SL, but just now I checked online and the ads for 30 & 10-30 both say SN.  It may be a mistake in the advertising, but I will check before buying again.  I don't want no stinkin' government approved SN.

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

Lucas Oil has a bottle of Zinc Additive available. I have used it in the recommended dose for breaking in new engines.

 

Also the 5xi series all use 10W-30 oil in the engine and the transmission/transaxle. Your choice if you want to go the synthetic route but that is what I used in my three. The three transmission/transaxles each used Mobil 1 10W-30 as the 5 qt. jug was perfect for the 4.5 qt capacity. The two Kohlers used Amsoil Small Engine 10W-30, Valvoline, or Mobil 1 Synthetic. For the Daihatsu Diesel, I used Amsoil Diesel 10W-30.

 

 

Edited July 11, 2020 by shallowwatersailor

[BZilly 15]

18 hours ago, WHEELHORSEFAN*19 said:

No issues with switching to synthetic. There will be tons of mixed feelings and opinions on this subject. I myself have switched back and forth numerous times. I buy whatever is on sale with one stipulation. I get oil that has a decent amount of zinc in it, these engines need all the dinosaur oil they can get. Kawasaki brand, kohler brand and rotella brand oil would be what I'd go after. Helps with valve guides, valve seals, rings and if applicable hydraulic lifters, the lifters will get loud and tap hard if regular motor oil that is used in today's automobiles is used. Been to enough Kawasaki and kohler update schools, they always push to use these oils to help preserve your engine. Just my 2 cents, now someone can come along and disagree with me.

Sounds like not worth switching to synthetic..  Rotella 30 weight it is. 

Thanks for your help.

 

[BZilly 15]

1 hour ago, shallowwatersailor said:

Lucas Oil has a bottle of Zinc Additive available. I have used it in the recommended dose for breaking in new engines.

 

Also the 5xi series all use 10W-30 oil in the engine and the transmission/transaxle. Your choice if you want to go the synthetic route but that is what I used in my three. The three transmission/transaxles each used Mobil 1 10W-30 as the 5 qt. jug was perfect for the 4.5 qt capacity. The two Kohlers used Amsoil Small Engine 10W-30, Valvoline, or Mobil 1 Synthetic. For the Daihatsu Diesel, I used Amsoil Diesel 10W-30.

 

 

 

1 hour ago, shallowwatersailor said:

Lucas Oil has a bottle of Zinc Additive available. I have used it in the recommended dose for breaking in new engines.

 

Also the 5xi series all use 10W-30 oil in the engine and the transmission/transaxle. Your choice if you want to go the synthetic route but that is what I used in my three. The three transmission/transaxles each used Mobil 1 10W-30 as the 5 qt. jug was perfect for the 4.5 qt capacity. The two Kohlers used Amsoil Small Engine 10W-30, Valvoline, or Mobil 1 Synthetic. For the Daihatsu Diesel, I used Amsoil Diesel 10W-30.

 

 

Yes the transaxle/transmission calls for 10W30 so useing  10 30 in the engine would keep things simple and 1 jug does both...

 

thanks Sailor very helpful

[WVHillbilly520H 10,373]

I prefer Castrol GTX 10-30 High Mileage synthetic blend oil so you have the extra zinc dino juice and synthetic properties... Again just a personal opinion. Try this as additive....https://rislone.com/product/3x-concentrated-engine-oil-supplement-with-zinc-treatment-4405/.

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

1 hour ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

I prefer Castrol GTX 10-30 High Mileage synthetic blend oil so you have the extra zinc dino juice and synthetic properties... Again just a personal opinion. Try this as additive....https://rislone.com/product/3x-concentrated-engine-oil-supplement-with-zinc-treatment-4405/.

 

After the BP Oil Deepwater Horizon oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico, which was the largest marine oil spill, I have never since purchased British Petroleum gas or related products which includes Castrol Oil.  It's a shame as I use to use Castrol back in the dino-oil days exclusively.

[WVHillbilly520H 10,373]

1 hour ago, shallowwatersailor said:

 

After the BP Oil Deepwater Horizon oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico, which was the largest marine oil spill, I have never since purchased British Petroleum gas or related products which includes Castrol Oil.  It's a shame as I use to use Castrol back in the dino-oil days exclusively.

Exxon/Mobile and the Valdez... But you still use Mobile 1 ? ... Sorry Castrol has been my go to for 30 years and probably 30 more.

[Digger 66 3,478]

23 hours ago, The Tuul Crib said:

I agree with Brady on the Shell Rotella 30 weight is the best way to go it has a good amount of zinc in it and that's all I use in my tractors.

 

 Interesting , I didn't know they made straight thirty . Is it high detergent too ? 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 11, 2020 by Digger 66

[The Tuul Crib 7,336]

Yes it is a little higher on the detergent category but it is The zinc content which matters. Just have to change it a little more often.

[BZilly 15]

17 hours ago, tom2p said:

agree - zinc is just about gone in most (if not all) contemp synthetic oils for automotive / gas engines because it fouls cat converters 

 

Thanks, think I'll stick with mineral oil...SAE 30 or 10W30 would be ok in case I use it blowing snow

 

[Redhorse 12]

Just to clarify, oil does not come from dead dinosaurs. https://earthsky.org/human-world/is-my-cars-fuel-made-of-dead-dinosaurs#:~:text=Is%20my%20car's%20fuel%20made%20of%20dead%20dinosaurs%3F&text=Fossil%20fuels%20consist%20mainly%20of,a%20kind%20of%20water%20plant.&text=The%20popular%20idea%20that%20oil,of%20dead%20dinosaurs%20is%20mistaken.

 

Also, synthetic oil is much better to use than conventional oil. Much cleaner and does not break down with heat. Do some research and you will be convinced. It also starts out with crude oil or natural gas. You should also use it in your vehicle. Use a premium oil filter like Mobil 1, and you can change it once a year or 20K miles. Two of my vehicles have 240K and 290K miles and the engines are like new. Always had synthetic oil and always changed once a year. Both my Lxi and my GT20 both use synthetic. Good luck.