1973 GT14 Rebuild Project

[WheelHorseNut 222]

Hey guys!  It's been a while but I am starting a new project -- it's actually a tractor I bought about 2 years ago.  It ran when I got it but I only messed around with it twice or three times and then it sat.  We had a new addition to our family and, well, that was that for the rebuild.

 

I actually bought this tractor to be mostly a plow (snow and dirt) tractor.  When I got it, it ran good, no smoke.Some of the issues it has are as follows:

There was a throttle cable issue (the casing was broken, not allowing it to operate the linkage).

The ball joints were missing, replaced by bolts

The usual wiring issues - PTO wiring was melted, aftermarket lights were put in and not working, rear lights were messed up, etc.

 

So, I started working on it one morning:

Changed the oil to 30W, new Autolite 4316 Plug, new air filter, fuel filter, proper sized battery (22NF), drained all the fuel & replaced, change a fuel line, etc.

She started up and ran good -- a little popping from time to time.  The carb, I think is messed up and could probably use a rebuild.  If I manually operate the throttle linkage, it seems to load up and want to die and I can see it looks like it's dumping fuel as there is black smoke coming out of the exhaust.  So, I took my daughter around the property on my lap and she thought it was hilarious and talks about going on the tractor all the time now.

I go out there today to take her for another ride and get the thing started, then, it dies --  I wasn't quick enough on the choke.  I go to start it and nothing.  The ammeter is working (it shows a discharge with the key in run) so I jump the solenoid with a screwdriver and she turns over.  I figure, no problem -- must be the ignition switch.  I go out later and turn the key into the on position and jump the solenoid with a jumper wire and it starts up.  I let it run for a bit and then shut it off with the key.  Now, the ammeter shows no movement with the key in any position and I can't jump the solenoid.  I'm guessing that finally killed the rest of the ignition switch, right?  I also read that the ammeter could go bad and stop the ignition switch from getting power -- is that possible?  I can't get out there with my meter now as it's raining...

Here are some pics.  Any thoughts would be great.

Thanks!

 

 

Edited July 7, 2020 by WheelHorseNut

[953 nut 55,194]

2 hours ago, WheelHorseNut said:

Now, the ammeter shows no movement with the key in any position and I can't jump the solenoid.  I'm guessing that finally killed the rest of the ignition switch, right?  I also read that the ammeter could go bad and stop the ignition switch from getting power -- is that possible?

Amp meters can and do go bad, just remove the meter and bolt the two wires together for testing. Many of us remove amp meters and use a Volt meter. You should be able to jump the solenoid (big post to big post) even with a bad amp meter. The "+" battery cable goes directly to one post and the starter is connected to the other. Check the battery cables including the ground.

[Pullstart 62,838]

If you don’t need that rear pulley for a tiller, I know of a certain young man looking to run a tiller with his “Blackbeard”... @PeacemakerJack

[WheelHorseNut 222]

2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Amp meters can and do go bad, just remove the meter and bolt the two wires together for testing. Many of us remove amp meters and use a Volt meter. You should be able to jump the solenoid (big post to big post) even with a bad amp meter. The "+" battery cable goes directly to one post and the starter is connected to the other. Check the battery cables including the ground.

 

That's a good call -- I'll definitely try bypassing the solenoid.  I'll definitely take the gauge out of the mix for troubleshooting -- thanks for the tip!  I think I also might scratch up the surface where the ground is bolted.  Do you guys run a secondary ground to the block?  It's currently bolted to the hood support frame area (I think that's the factory spot as it's where I've seen most mounted).

Thanks!

 - Jeff

[WheelHorseNut 222]

26 minutes ago, pullstart said:

If you don’t need that rear pulley for a tiller, I know of a certain young man looking to run a tiller with his “Blackbeard”... @PeacemakerJack

 

Hahah!  I'll keep that in mind, but I didn't even notice it when I bought the tractor (cold and rainy day -- I was going to buy it no matter what as the price was right).  I just noticed it the other day when I was examining the hydro.

 

The oil came out like mud and the air filter was the worst I've ever seen.  At least the hydro filter is correct -- an OEM Toro filter...  I am doing a double change on the hydro just to make sure.  Looks like oil in there but I can't tell for sure (it's definitely not ATF) so I'm going to do a double change.  Cheap insurance...

 

I have a picture of the oil and air filter here somewhere...Ah, found them.

[oliver2-44 9,739]

Great looking original GT14.  While I hope your going to restore it mechanically and electriclly and keep it original.  But, the imost important thing is make it your own and keep giving your kids Tractor Rides!

[WheelHorseNut 222]

2 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

Great looking original GT14.  While I hope your going to restore it mechanically and electriclly and keep it original.  But, the imost important thing is make it your own and keep giving your kids Tractor Rides!

I definitely will!  One of the first things I’m going to do is take my family out in the trailer.  She’ll really get a kick out of that!

[953 nut 55,194]

8 hours ago, WheelHorseNut said:

Do you guys run a secondary ground to the block?

I like to run the ground cable to the engine block. Your starter is going to place the heaviest demand on the electrical system so I like to use one of the starter bolts as a grounding point.

[WheelHorseNut 222]

On 7/8/2020 at 7:12 AM, 953 nut said:

I like to run the ground cable to the engine block. Your starter is going to place the heaviest demand on the electrical system so I like to use one of the starter bolts as a grounding point.

Will do -- I bought a longer negative figuring it should probably go somewhere other than that spot on the hood support framework.

[WheelHorseNut 222]

I'm looking at getting a new ignition switch as I don't like the look of mine (almost a burn mark in the center on the back - see pic)  and, from what I have found in the forums, there are two different switches used -- one for the solid state ignitions and one for the coil/condenser/points setups.  I believe I have a points setup although I haven't looked under the RTV'd-to-hell cover I'll show in the pictures.  If I have the coil and condenser and that little cover on the block, it should be the points style, correct?  Does anyone have a Toro part number for the proper switch on points?  I want to keep the standard GT14 4 positions on the ignition.

In a post, Garry mentioned a 8362 Toro part (Ignition Switch Needed for a GT-14).  Actually, I read another thread where he confirmed that the 8362 is not the correct switch for a points tractor (Help Wiring My GT14 Wheel Horse).

 

I read a thread somewhere on here mentioning two other switches:

103990  - Should be for battery ignition (coil/condenser/points), correct?

103991 - Should be for Solid State/Electronic Ignition/Magneto/Breakerless (I've seen it mentioned many different ways), correct?

 

Found the thread for that above info: GT-14 Ignition Switch

 

Garry mentioned in one of those above links:

  

On 9/9/2015 at 11:16 AM, gwest_ca said:

1969-1971 GT-14 used the 8362 switch with breakerless ignition
1972-1973 GT-14 used the 101876 switch with battery ignition.

 

So, I'm guessing I need the switch# 103990, correct?  That's what it looks like to me...  Sorry for hashing this out in a thread but I wanted to make sure that if someone was looking for an ignition switch for their GT14 that all the info was in one place.

 

Oh, there was also this informative thread from Garry regarding the differences:

Using The Wrong Ignition Switch

 

Here are some pics:

 

[pfrederi 17,729]

Why do you want the 4 position switch?  With your battery points system the 103990 would work...  I converted my GT-14 to battery points.  The shank of the 103990 switch is a bit short the Instrument Panel in a GT 14 is thick only leaves a couple of threads to catch but it worked

 

 

 

Edited July 10, 2020 by pfrederi

[WheelHorseNut 222]

14 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Why do you want the 4 position switch?  With your battery points system the 103990 would work...  I converted my GT-14 to battery points.  The shank of the 103990 switch is a bit short the Instrument Panel in a GT 14 is thick only leaves a couple of threads to catch but it worked

 

 

 

 

I was thinking it would be more original and match the dashboard trim that has those designations on it (I have a fix for that, though).

The following positions are retained in the 103990?

Off

Run

Start

 

You'd lose the Run & Accessory position, correct?  The PTO switch would then work in the run mode instead of having to switch it back one, correct?

Thanks for the info on that switch.  I was hoping someone had tried it out.

[pfrederi 17,729]

My electric PTO runs just fine in run with 3 position.

[WheelHorseNut 222]

Just added a new coil, condenser and stainless hardware to fix up the old stuff.  The hardware, especially, was a mess.  Mish-mosh of washers and crazy screws and bolt mix.  Going to be working on it in the coming month to get her stone reliable for the winter.  I also have to move some earth, to which she'll be an integral piece of the puzzle!

 

I want to get a cool coil bracket for this one -- I saw some anodized red fuel pump brackets on that I'd consider trying.  I can also machine something if I need to (I work in the metal stamping and manufacturing field).  I just know that that 'plated' coil bracket is going to look like crap in a few years.

[WheelHorseNut 222]

This is the one I'm considering:

EVIL ENERGY 50mm Fuel Filter Mounting Bracket, Fuel Pump Clamp Holder Red

 

It's 50mm with the rubber isolator and 55mm without.  My coil is 55.1mm, so I think it'd work just fine.  It's cheap enough at ~$10.  Just not sure if it'd fit under the hood.  Might have to make a bracket or something to relocate it slightly.

Edit: Actually, they got back to me on the overall height -- they say it's 2.56" from top to bottom.  My coil at the largest part of the diameter is 2.59" and that fits under the hood, so I'm guessing this will as well.  I'm ordering one now and will update when it comes in. 

Edited October 11, 2023 by WheelHorseNut
Added price

[Moparfanforever 844]

Pretty cool looking bracket!! I saved it to get one for myself. 

[WheelHorseNut 222]

19 hours ago, Moparfanforever said:

Pretty cool looking bracket!! I saved it to get one for myself. 

Yeah, man!  I think it's going to really pop under the hood and it's cheap!  It'll be here tomorrow, so I'll take some pics of it with the coil in it and mocked up under the hood.

 

In the meantime, I am trying to get this thig reliable as I had mentioned.  I am waiting to get my good voltmeter to replace the broken ammeter I took out and bypassed.  It's going to be here in 2-3 months as it's totally custom.  In the meantime, I bought this cheap mini voltmeter and I 3d printed this spacer flange for it.  It's a temporary fix but I have the STL and gcode files if anyone wants to modify it to work with their tractor.

 

Edited October 12, 2023 by WheelHorseNut
added link

[WheelHorseNut 222]

This is how it fits -- now I am just waiting for the Amazon driver to show up with the little meter and other tractor goodies I ordered.  I bought some replacement 8-32 x 1/2" pan head phillips stainless screws from tractor supply for $2.29.  I also did a really solid permanent bypass for the ammeter wiring with a barrel connector and heat shrink tubing.  It'll last until I rewire the whole tractor, which is the plan when I can afford the time to take her out of service.   

 

If anyone wants one, let me know.  I printed an extra.  I wish I had red filament -- would've been nice.  Oh well. I'll also refine the print just because it's not as smooth as I wanted it... even though it's just a temporary thing for this tractor.

[WheelHorseNut 222]

On 10/11/2023 at 6:35 PM, Moparfanforever said:

Pretty cool looking bracket!! I saved it to get one for myself. 

I got the bracket and it fits perfectly!

Will have to do something about the logo though....

[Moparfanforever 844]

Good to know the coil fits. Looks sharp!!

[WheelHorseNut 222]

13 hours ago, Moparfanforever said:

Good to know the coil fits. Looks sharp!!

It was raining but I snuck outside to mock it up and see how it would fit under the hood.  Here are the pics.  It actually sits lower than the stock bracket.  I am going to be installing this for good on Monday.  I am also going to talk to my pad printer from work and see what'll remove that pad print without harming the anodizing.  This bracket is slick... totally worth the $10!  I could have it powder coated... or just rattle can it, too... Let me see what it looks like when it's all said and done.

 

EDIT: I spoke with my pad printer and here's what he said about removing pad printing off of anodized surfaces:

I really depends on what ink mixture was used and how recently they were printed. We'd try Isopropyl Alcohol first to see if the printing comes off. Next we would heat the part for five minutes up to 160-170 F and using ink thinner, try to get it off.

If that doesn't work we have an ultrasonic cleaner that can soften the ink layer a bit and then try the above methods again

 

Edited October 15, 2023 by WheelHorseNut
Added info from pad printer

[WHMan2012 170]

I've got some extra GT- parts if there's anything specific you're in need of,  just send me a PM and I'll let you know if I have it available. Good Luck !

[WheelHorseNut 222]

On 10/15/2023 at 3:56 PM, WHMan2012 said:

I've got some extra GT- parts if there's anything specific you're in need of,  just send me a PM and I'll let you know if I have it available. Good Luck !

Excellent -- I am sure I will be in need of some things.  It's funny, I keep putting shiny new bits on this tractor and the rest is looking shabbier and shabbier haha!  I may do what I have to do with it (move some dirt) and take her out of commission to get to the restoration... everything is starting to look like I'm putting lipstick on a pig 

 

Just noticed today that my fuel shutoff is leaking like a sieve and dumped most of my TruFuel into my lawn... I was looking at this valve as a replacement:

 

It's about $30 and looks pretty close to the one that's on there.  Anyone else have a direct replacement they've used?  I've searched but couldn't quite find anything.  I have some of those black plastic ones with the red knob... I can probably swap that in a pinch until I get a replacement.

[WHMan2012 170]

LMAO, oh I get it., that's why I try not paint too much or use new stuff on an older build, because before you know it, it's 50 / 50 and now you feel like you should paint it. Then you start to feel like you're in over your head on what should've been a simple fun project / restoration build. I have my original fuel shut off, never used it but it moves freely . Yours if you want it, send me a PM and I'll get it in the mail for you no charge.

[Moparfanforever 844]

10 hours ago, WheelHorseNut said:

Excellent -- I am sure I will be in need of some things.  It's funny, I keep putting shiny new bits on this tractor and the rest is looking shabbier and shabbier haha!  I may do what I have to do with it (move some dirt) and take her out of commission to get to the restoration... everything is starting to look like I'm putting lipstick on a pig 

 

Just noticed today that my fuel shutoff is leaking like a sieve and dumped most of my TruFuel into my lawn... I was looking at this valve as a replacement:

 

It's about $30 and looks pretty close to the one that's on there.  Anyone else have a direct replacement they've used?  I've searched but couldn't quite find anything.  I have some of those black plastic ones with the red knob... I can probably swap that in a pinch until I get a replacement.

You can buy the shut off and grommet cheaper than $30. I will try to find the site I have bought from.