Jump to content
Salbreth1

Curbside 418-C puller build

Recommended Posts

 
ebinmaine

:popcorn:

 

 

I'll be along. 

 

How's about some updated progress pics?

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Salbreth1

Not much progress but I found 4 nice cracks in the axle mounting plate. I’ll have to drill and fill them. Maybe weld a backer plate to it.
 

 

B2C596C9-565D-4B6F-911D-37998596348D.jpeg

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
14 minutes ago, Salbreth1 said:

Not much progress but I found 4 nice cracks in the axle mounting plate. I’ll have to drill and fill them. Maybe weld a backer plate to it.
 

 

B2C596C9-565D-4B6F-911D-37998596348D.jpeg

There are several threads about how to repair and reinforce the area.

Pretty common on horses with hard usage.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Salbreth1

Thank you, I found the threads. I’ll have to pick up a length of angle. 

  • Like 3
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

OLD bedframe is good angle iron

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
PeacemakerJack

Thanks for starting a thread dedicated to this build...I’m looking forward to watching the progress:popcorn:

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
SylvanLakeWH

:popcorn:

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Salbreth1

Thanks, I’m excited about the build and knowing now about the not so common 418-C, I’m dedicated at this point. The plan is to bring it back to stock and see how little Sal likes pulling.  Then maybe another with a small block in it. :D

 

im not sure what parts I’m missing now but I’m going to take it a step at a time. First get all the bones painted and  re-assembled. I read the paint threat and of course different opinions about primers. I don’t have a sprayer but had good results with rustoleum. I’ve taken the frame down to bare metal and gave it an acetone bath. After I weld the new angles on the transmission plate I’d like to prime it and feel like got somewhere. 
 

here’s a shot of my son while we were disassembling. He’s all about it!

B0CB29AF-1FF8-4E3C-AB83-C8AC979A9BFD.jpeg

  • Like 2
  • Excellent 3
  • Heart 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
7 hours ago, Salbreth1 said:

drove up to find this 418-C and a set of aluminum ramps on the side of the road. Had to be fate. 

God is good, he knew you needed the ramps.

  • Like 2
  • Excellent 1
  • Heart 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
AMC RULES

Posting this here for inspiration.

Couple W-H pullers from our local tractor show.

If you're interested, look around there, there's a few more there where they're posted. 787811653_RS-WelcomeWagon.jpg.fb3ba0aa90d34a2772af270fbdf978b6.jpg.877b32f499079468f9efd503a1ab3f8e.jpg

  • Like 4
  • Excellent 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
bc.gold
17 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

OLD bedframe is good angle iron

`

Do a test cut before using bed frame angle iron, some have a high carbon content and becomes brittle next to the welded area.

 

Credits.

 

Ahhh, Mystery Metal! Fun stuff! Most bed frames made toaday are made from what Bob said - light gauge Hot Rolled steel, and they weld, cut, and drill fine. Good for non-structural stuff. BUT if you get hold of an older frame that has some weight to it and has angle that you can't twist a little bit in your hands, it's a way different story. That's the Mystery Metal stuff - and it is HARD! I don't use it for anything at all.

Hank

Edited by bcgold
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
Salbreth1

Thanks nut, I was going through the puller section. I’ve never pulled before so I’m reading a lot so I don’t look like a complete noob when I show up. :blink:

 

so I grabbed a piece of 2x2x3/16 mild steal and fabbed the angles. Their was a piece of 1/8” flat bar already welded at the top so I guess someone made an attempt to fix it once. I added 2 more and welded it up. Came out pretty nice.  
 

 

69DC43A1-B689-43A6-8E9A-EDC3C6D2D557.jpeg

Edited by Salbreth1
  • Like 2
  • Excellent 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WildmanC120

Glad to see my tractor make it to the forum. I threw it out because I sold the house and just didn't have the energy to move it. 

 

You will need one of the hard hydraulic lines for the transmission and hopefully it will work for you.  

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
  • Heart 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Salbreth1

Your kidding? What are the odds. I can tell you it’s in good hands. Looking forward to restoring it. And I would greatly appreciate any insight about the hydro and axle if they had issues.  They seem to be in good shape.
 

my son and I thanks you!

 

sal

  • Like 4
  • Excellent 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WildmanC120
4 minutes ago, Salbreth1 said:

Your kidding? What are the odds. I can tell you it’s in good hands. Looking forward to restoring it. And I would greatly appreciate any insight about the hydro and axle if they had issues.  They seem to be in good shape.
 

my son and I thanks you!

 

sal

 

I pulled it apart because I was going to restore it. The hydro was not working and had a broken pipe off the pump.  It's only like a $30 pipe on eBay.  It also needed the new center console piece where the seat attaches as it was all broken. You should have 2 new ones there.  If you use the 520 one you will need other pieces.  If you use the other 416 one you can use the  enter console you have.  

 

I wish you luck with it.  I was excited to restore it but I have 3 others at the moment.  Once the house should and I started moving things I was just over moving stuff and ran outta room so to the street it went. I just moved into the new house 2 days ago so hoping to find a deal on another one to restore. 

 

I wish you and your son well with the build. I look forward to seeing the end results. 

  • Like 3
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Salbreth1

Great! Thanks again. I had the hydro moving the tractor when I brought it home. So hopefully an easy fix. If all else fails I’ll look for an 8 speed. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WildmanC120
Just now, Salbreth1 said:

Great! Thanks again. I had the hydro moving the tractor when I brought it home. So hopefully an easy fix. If all else fails I’ll look for an 8 speed. 

 

If you are gonna pull then an 8 speed would be a better setup.  That hydro is desirable in that tractor as it is geared faster for commercial use. That was the reason why I wanted it when I got it was the rear end. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Salbreth1

 Just celebrated my daughters 1st birthday. She was born on the forth. It was mayhem, but lots of fun. but I finally got to priming the frame. I be spraying the other parts during the week if time allows. Also had a crack in the lower steering support and had to order one off eBay. The hood and saddle are in rough shape. Not sure if I should do the body work or find a better one. 
 


 


 


 

 

979010C5-7842-4EED-BFE1-AE64DB74EB96.jpeg

CEB0DCCD-B677-4447-A0A2-C134E581A963.jpeg

image.jpg

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

How much rust pitting is there?

 

Kind of a Time value vs money value thing.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Salbreth1

Yea, I could get lucky locally. It’s pitted pretty bad. Lots of prep and bondo. Worse than sheet rock...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

Might not be a bad idea to throw a want ad in our classified section.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WildmanC120

Install the 416 tower, use the steering wheel assembly with the cast dash and then use the fiberglass hood from the 161. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Salbreth1

Would love to throw it together but something inside won’t let me. I can’t help making a project out of it. 
 

I could go custom and same some time. Maybe something like this...

 

70C4D66E-C1C4-4231-B897-2B6FB928E423.jpeg

  • Like 5
  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • lsc1257
      By lsc1257
      I have a 1996 520H Wheel Horse for sale.  The tractor has just over 800 hours on it.  It comes with a 48 inch deck.  The deck is a 1995 and has over 1,500 hours on it, as it came brand new with my 312-8 that I sold several years ago.  This 520-H has the swept front axle so it can handle a 60 inch deck.  I just replaced the battery and the deck belt this summer.  The engine is a 20HP Onan and it starts right up but requires the full choke.  The transmission is an Eaton 1100-062, hydrostatic.  The deck is in rough shape but the spindles appear to be in good working order.  The right rear tire has some cracking.  The original operator's manual for the 520H is included, as is the original operating and maintenance instructions for the deck, plus the installation instructions for the deck.  Also included is a new PTO belt and several miscellaneous deck wheels and rollers.  Additional pictures available upon request.  Asking $500.



    • Bill D
      By Bill D
      I have to change some o-rings on my GT-1800.  What size o-rings do I need for the ORB-5 and ORB-6 fittings.  Also, does anyone make a ORB-5 to JIC-6 fitting?  Looking for both straight and 45 degree fittings.  Thanks.
    • Tfarver
      By Tfarver
      This is my commando I just picked up awhile ago. Looks like it was-tried to be a puller. Got it with no motor but have a strong 14 to install. Does anyone know how to preserve the sheet metal but keep the “rust look”. Will be using this unit for small farm chores. I really like the look currently with the rust and wear, kinda tells a story I suppose but I don’t want to leave the Tin “unprotected”. I’ve heard of guys lightly rubbing down the metal with used motor oil?  Any thoughts, comments, concerns are highly appreciated!


    • TonyI
      By TonyI
      I have a 418-c  worked great plowing over the winter.. but now is having no power pulling a load fwd.
      replaced the fluid.. the old fluid didn't look bad. feels a littls better., but still significant loss of power and high pitched whine coming out of the hydro.  the lift works fine
       
      is there a repair manual our there for the hydro?  Is there a way to reverse flush the system?   I hear sometimes the hoses crack internally and clog things up.
×
×
  • Create New...