Unidrive (Eaton 1100) leaking possibilities ?

[chex313 123]

I put in a new driver side axle seal this morning which showed so much oil and grime I thought that was the only issue.

 

When I jacked up the back end right about where the oil drain set screw is last night, it started leaking much worse and definitely not from the axle seal...I put a pan and rag under it and quit for the night.

 

 I drained the oil this morning (It was very clean maybe 200 hours on it). It was down at the add mark as this  520H has been seeping since I got it . Never enough that I needed to add oil. I figured I would put something on the set screw to help seal, so it can not be what is leaking. I do not think its coming out of the side gasket...

 

What else can leak? The fitting that is just in front of the axle(I'll add pic of it once I get it cleaned off)? It is covered with grime...Is there anything else? I thought I would post up here, and run to Walmart for the Wix 51521...The only thing I can think of is to finish cleaning everything add some oil and see where it leaks out.

 

The jack has a pad on it, jacking it up there could not crack anything, could it? I'll need to get it a lot higher to get my head under it and jacking it in the middle and putting jack stands on it seems like the way but I don't want to hurt anything... or I could lift it with my FEL...

 

Oh and one last question was this hub repaired by the Original owner?

 

 

[squonk 41,328]

Do not get a 51521.You want a 51410 or Napa 1410. Yes I know the 51521 crosses to the Toro OEM number but the 51521 is for engines that require a bypass. The 51410 is a hydraulic filter. The trans has a thin gasket between the pump and differential that can leak as well as that front hose that is a bear to get to. I haven't seen too many Eatons that haven't leaked all over the place.

[Goldnboy 942]

Well on some eaton 1100 there is a drain plug (by the steel tube near  the fan ) that leaked  on mine. I Removed the entire pump because  I thought  it was the pump gasket. In the picture  the plug has a pin hole that leaked badly.

[JCM 9,391]

That oil line that @squonk  mentioned IS a bear to get at and requires an 11/16th crow foot wrench to remove. I replaced that line on my 93 520-H that I sold many years ago, hopefully that's not what's leaking. Could it possibly be the brake drum shaft seal leaking.

[chex313 123]

1 hour ago, Goldnboy said:

Well on some eaton 1100 there is a drain plug (by the steel tube near  the fan ) that leaked  on mine. I Removed the entire pump because  I thought  it was the pump gasket. In the picture  the plug has a pin hole that leaked badly.

Thanks Squonk I'll return the 11521, I need to drop a dead battery off anyway...Golden, how did you get that plug out?

Edited June 22, 2020 by chex313

[WHX?? 49,159]

That hub looks cracked ??? and was definitely welded on. I don't see a 2nd set screw either? There should be a plastic thrust washer between the hub and the case also. 

[chex313 123]

8 minutes ago, WHX24 said:

That hub looks cracked ??? and was definitely welded on. I don't see a 2nd set screw either? There should be a plastic thrust washer between the hub and the case also. 

That is what I figured, seems to be solid, its been that way since I got it years ago...The thrust washer was definitely missing...It does have two set screws they were nice and tight and the key way is good. If that weld has lasted this long , I'll stay with it.

Edited June 22, 2020 by chex313

[Goldnboy 942]

12 minutes ago, chex313 said:

Thanks Squonk I'll return the 11521...Golden, how did you get that plug out?

As I mentioned  before  I removed the entire pump and the plug is barely  visible  installed  on the tractor.  However  I used  a vise grips and two whacks with a hammer and it came out. The plug is only a few bucks at discount  hydraulics online and is a ORB#6 thread too.

[chex313 123]

5 minutes ago, Goldnboy said:

As I mentioned  before  I removed the entire pump and the plug is barely  visible  installed  on the tractor.  However  I used  a vise grips and two whacks with a hammer and it came out. The plug is only a few bucks at discount  hydraulics online and is a ORB#6 thread too.

Oh OK, Its threaded....Why did they put that there? That is right about where the leak seems to be...I wonder if I could have cracked it when I jacked it up.

 

Do you folks put anything on the drain plug to seal it...I'm worried if I tighten it too much , I will strip the Allen socket.

Edited June 22, 2020 by chex313

[WHX?? 49,159]

Little bit of Teflon pipe tape or any decent pipe joint dope. 

[squonk 41,328]

The o-ring seals it. The threads do not. You do not want  Teflon inside the pump

Edited June 22, 2020 by squonk

[johnnymag3 2,521]

teflon tape is useless !!!! it may prevent galling, but does nothing else....except make clogs. Its not a sealant

[WHX?? 49,159]

 

5 minutes ago, squonk said:

The o-ring seals it.

He meant the drain plug which is NPT. 

8 minutes ago, squonk said:

Teflon inside the pump

You are not supposed to use the whole roll, and leave the first two threads bare. I use it on the job and on tractors with nary a problem. 

[squonk 41,328]

1 minute ago, WHX24 said:

 

He meant the drain plug which is NPT. 

You are not supposed to use the whole roll, and leave the first two threads bare. I use it on the job and on tractors with nary a problem. 

Maybe that's why I run out of tape? 

[chex313 123]

Thanks everyone , I have a lot to go by now...I'll check back in tomorrow and let you know what I find.  

[chex313 123]

So I found the correct filter, cleaned as much as I had time for. Added some pipe dope and put the NPT plug back in. Tightened the case bolts holding the half's together and that outlet (or inlet pipe). Nothing seemed loose enough to leak. I added one quart of hy guard  and put a paper towel under it.

 

There doesn't seem to be much that could leak under there. I do not see the plug that Goldenboy has. Anybody spot anything? There is one nasty spot next to the drain plug, I can't tell if its grease or rust. So I will work on cleaning that some more. Did not see it till I just looked at the pics.

 

I never liked changing the oil in this thing. I put one quart in and it drains so slowly in the dipstick fill that it shows oil on the stick after one quart. I need to get the wheel back on and level it out...No leaks yet , so I'll add a quart until I get to 4. If it still isn't leaking, I guess its time to run it and check.

 

Quote

That hub looks cracked ??? and was definitely welded on. I don't see a 2nd set screw either? There should be a plastic thrust washer between the hub and the case also. 

 

That thrust washer is between the hub and the bearing? There isn't one on the other side either and the gap is so wide not sure it will do anything. Also interestingly the other hub also looks welded in the same spot???

 

Edited June 24, 2020 by chex313

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

Hy-Gard instead of 10W-30 as recommended?

[chex313 123]

2 hours ago, shallowwatersailor said:

Hy-Gard instead of 10W-30 as recommended?

I am just trying to find what's leaking. I am figuring when I find the leak, I'll have to drain out what I put in. I plan on running it through a coffee filter and reusing it. I don't know how else to find a leak other than filling it up , having it leak , drain it and fix the leak. How do other folks do it?

 

I wouldn't think using a hydro/transmission oil would be a problem in transmission...why do we use engine oil in it?

Edited June 25, 2020 by chex313

[chex313 123]

I painted the wheel and am about to put it back on since the seal does not seem to be leaking...Is their away to straighten that brake out? I never use it but its kind of crooked.

 

 

 

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

The lubricant for the Eaton 11 recommended by Wheel Horse is 10W-30 motor oil. Check under the manual section here on Red Square and you should find the documentation.  Now if you check the Eaton website though you, will find that they recommend that a hydraulic oil (not sure of the spec required) should be used. The Eaton 11 transmission is bolted to the Wheel Horse 1100 transaxle and shares a common sump. The Eaton 11 has enough load capacity that a hydraulic lift can therefore be incorporated on tractors using this combination.  

 

This is unlike the Eaton 7 and Wheel Horse 700 transaxle used on some models such as 312A and 518H. Those models use a hydraulic oil that is similar to 20W in the transmission and 10W-30 in the transaxle. They also require the manual lift like the manual transmission tractors as there isn't a lift hydraulic circuit.

 

Eaton may have changed some clearances on the transmissions provided to Wheel Horse to be able to use 10W-30. I have owned six tractors with the Eaton 11 and all were switched upon my ownership to a synthetic 10W-30 which has superior flow characteristics, especially for snow removal in the winter. Mobil 1 was my choice as I could buy it in the five quart jug and made it convenient for the 4.5 quart capacity.

[chex313 123]

I put in 10-30 100% synthetic. I have all the manuals for the tractor...Hy guard meets every spec the Eaton would need as well. It's just more expensive...I'll save it for the 1026R.

Edited June 25, 2020 by chex313

[WVHillbilly520H 10,374]

21 hours ago, chex313 said:

 

I wouldn't think using a hydro/transmission oil would be a problem in transmission...why do we use engine oil in it?

This is my opinion (but it may very well be the actual answer) it's easier and simpler for an average homeowner just to have 10w30 motor oil on the shelf for your engine and trans than a "special" hydraulic fluid or ATF. And when I first bought my 520H brand new I thought this is a really cool idea 1 less thing to have to remember/buy for maintenance.

[chex313 123]

15 minutes ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

This is my opinion (but it may very well be the actual answer) it's easier and simpler for an average homeowner just to have 10w30 motor oil on the shelf for your engine and trans than a "special" hydraulic fluid or ATF. And when I first bought my 520H brand new I thought this is a really cool idea 1 less thing to have to remember/buy for maintenance.

That might be right. I just use oil up so fast, it does not usually last that long. There is always at least one car that is due for a change. They use at least 3 different kinds in 4 cars (2 mine and 2 my kids) and then 2 tractors. Than gas, diesel and premix to round it out...and a 5 gallon container for the used oil...which i just filled up and now need to take to the fleet center. 

 

I do not how guys with all those tractors do it...Hats off

Edited June 26, 2020 by chex313

[chex313 123]

Good news was no leaks, bad news was it didn't take even 4 quarts...it goes in so slowly in the fill tube that I was taking it real slow to not spill any. At around 4 it stopped going down the funnel. 

 

I had to pump it out to get it lowered to the full mark. I decide to drain it out and measure how much came out. Stripped the NPT Plug trying to remove it. Had a few choice words, and decided to run it and test it out . No leaks so I moved on to yard work and saved extracting the NPT for another day. 

Edited June 26, 2020 by chex313

[tom2p 2,394]

a trans/pump bolt (or bolts ?) can be removed or loosened and/or a line attaching nut can be loosened to permit faster entry of the oil when adding oil to the trans (to prevent the 'burping' and lock) - but I just take my time