1975 C160 Frame Failure?

[Mike C160 251]

Greetings.

 

Looks like the frame has failed from stress where the seat hinge attaches. Is this common?

 

I am in the process of repairing correctly now. There was a Botched up job there. And they elected to move the seat back tow more inches with some angle iron.....  I need a parts machine...

 

Now vacuuming 45 years of grass and associated compost out of the shifter tunnel.... oh joy.  

 

Cheers - 

[Lee1977 6,663]

A couple pieces of angle iron bolted or welded inside the tunnel will fix that.

[ebinmaine 67,553]

28 minutes ago, Mike C160 said:

frame has failed from stress where the seat hinge attaches

Shouldn't be the frame there. Maybe the seat tunnel?

[Mike C160 251]

Just now, ebinmaine said:

Shouldn't be the frame there. Maybe the seat tunnel?

 

Yup seat / shifter tunnel.

 

Im surprised the factory didn't see this coming. 

[Lee1977 6,663]

8 minutes ago, Mike C160 said:

 

Yup seat / shifter tunnel.

 

Im surprised the factory didn't see this coming. 

They did change that on the 1976 model.

[squonk 41,136]

I had a guy cut a plate out on a plasma cutter to reinforce mine.

[Mike C160 251]

Well.

 

Its done. I put two pieces of angle in for now. Till the machine gets restored. Then I will do something much better. At least the seat is now in the proper position and the locking system works again....

 

Cheers

[Mike C160 251]

I only noticed this now. Look at the two photos. My tractor is missing the seat springs! I didn't notice till now!

 

The previous owner was easy 300 pounds. I guess this explains all the problems with the rear fender cover and hinge. The rear fender cover was not only damaged when he back into something, but it's full of stress cracks where the seat bolts on. 

 

I need to dig up that rear fender cover, another hinge and now the seat springs.

[ebinmaine 67,553]

My tractors are woods runners and the forest is VERY rough.

I don't use seat springs because I don't like the pitch and roll.

 

I have a nice set I'd sell cheap.

The freight and border charges would be a kicker though.

[RJR49 129]

Mine did it too. In addition the seat pan cracked. All good now

[ohiofarmer 3,276]

Old bed frames work well for angle iron. They are tempered steel, very strong, and best of all the inside corner bend of the angle is very sharp.

 

 College towns when summer break happens are a good time to find them.

[GAJoe 844]

I need pictures of this fixed correctly.

When I noticed the cracks and realized that the front connection of the seat spring would cause the thin gage seat pan metal to be flexed both up and down I thought that these seat springs must be a modification by the owner. Then I find this thread. Wow! I can't believe that they did this.

 

   

 

I cleaned the paint off so that it's ready to weld. But after that is repaired then a change needs to be made to prevent the seat pan from flexing.

Edited March 26, 2023 by GAJoe

[ebinmaine 67,553]

5 minutes ago, GAJoe said:

this fixed correctly

I can't say it's correct but I've been known to add a very large washer or two there. 

 

[squonk 41,136]

I fixed my neighbor's C-160 by using a good seat pan from a Commando. Made a little different and it took minor work to do it

[Handy Don 12,233]

47 minutes ago, GAJoe said:

cleaned the paint off so that it's ready to weld.

If it were mine, I’d put a reinforcing patch at each hole to strengthen the fender and distribute the load.

1. drill a hole at the end of each crack to relieve any residual or future pressure to extend the crack (⅛” is enough)

2. grind the cracks lightly to prep for welds then use tack welds to gradually close each crack (avoid too much heat at one time in any area to prevent warping!) and grind as needed

3. clean and prime with Rustoleum (or equivalent) rust preventative

4. cut a square sheet metal patch that extends over the entire set of cracks for each hole (I’d use ⅛” or 3/16” sheet) and bevel its edges

5. lightly grind off the paint on the fender pan where the patch edges fall

6. weld the patch to the fender with a series of tack welds. It isn’t necessary to completely close up the edge of the patch but if you have the time...(again, avoiding concentrations of heat that will warp the fender and/or the patch) and grind as needed

7. Drill the patch for the seat mounting bolt 

8. Clean, prep, and paint the patch & bolt hole

(if you want to "gild the lily” for extra rigidity, then before you weld on the patch you can drill additional holes in the fender pan that will fall under the patch and then from the underside of the fender, do tack welds of the fender to the patch at the edges of those holes)

 

Edited March 26, 2023 by Handy Don

[ohiofarmer 3,276]

On 3/26/2023 at 4:50 PM, GAJoe said:

I need pictures of this fixed correctly.

When I noticed the cracks and realized that the front connection of the seat spring would cause the thin gage seat pan metal to be flexed both up and down I thought that these seat springs must be a modification by the owner. Then I find this thread. Wow! I can't believe that they did this.

 

   

 

I cleaned the paint off so that it's ready to weld. But after that is repaired then a change needs to be made to prevent the seat pan from flexing.

I found a picture on my cell phone. lets see if it will post

 

[ohiofarmer 3,276]

[ohiofarmer 3,276]

[ohiofarmer 3,276]

[ohiofarmer 3,276]

Well, it is not pretty, but is very solid. First, I added a reinforcing piece of angle iron underneath the broken end of the transmission tunnel.Then I added additional angle iron supports that take all the weight and flex off the thin front section as there is plenty of support added to the rear to take the flex and metal fatigue from the front.

  You have to be careful that the threaded holes in the rear seat pan support remain squared up with the original seat pan configuration..Even though it might look like the rear area is welded to the front, it still comes apart to work on the transmission and rear axle ,if needed.

  I used a few vice grips and wood spacer blocks and nylon ratcheting webs to hold it together and spaced apart correctly as well as a framing square so the seat pan still fit the original configuration . The angle iron in the last picture are notched under the front stretcher for rock solid support

  I am a pretty good carpenter when it comes to welding, so quit laughing

   In case you are wondering about the engine tin, his tractor is a shaker plate that ripped up the tins as a result of the coil being attached to them. I booger welded some old curved metal underneath and patched the broken and missing metal from the front with JB weld. I found that it stays in place by placing a sandwich bag over it and you can tool it a bit by using the plastic as a buffer so the JB does not run or sag. Body filler and epoxy metal in one.

   I patched a seat support that the latest and greatest seat as on a 520 almost completely detached while I was close to a deep rocky hole in a side ditch, and that will get your attention. I was able to bolt a section of a circular saw blade to the transmission tunnel to get by. This repair is much superior to that

 .Seats on Wheel Horse all the way back to the Raider 10 with its tilting seat pan can be a disaster with a high backed replacement seat. i got dumped off backwards loading the tractor on a trailer ramp when the latch let loose . Fortunately, the tractor was sitting on the ramp to service the mower and the tractor was not in motion when I leaned back to dismount the tractor. My tailbone hurt so bad that i had no business trying to get in the truck to drive home.

 

 

Edited March 28, 2023 by ohiofarmer

[GAJoe 844]

Got it welded up. It's not beautiful and the paint that I have is a shade off but it's under the seat.

 

And added Superstrut to the seat pan to support the weight load and keep the seat pan from cracking again.

 

 

Edited April 1, 2023 by GAJoe

[ebinmaine 67,553]

Excellent work there Joe 

[GAJoe 844]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

Excellent work there Joe 

Thanks!

If I had a C series with this bad design I'd go ahead with the modification before it cracked. I'm really surprised that they didn't foresee the potential for the failure.  If a big guy rides rough terrain that's a lot of metal fatigue. 

Edited April 2, 2023 by GAJoe

[ohiofarmer 3,276]

3 hours ago, GAJoe said:

Thanks!

If I had a C series with this bad design I'd go ahead with the modification before it cracked. I'm really surprised that they didn't foresee the potential for the failure.  If a big guy rides rough terrain that's a lot of metal fatigue. 

         i never had that exact problem with a similar tractor, but had to add angle iron to the frame end as the tilt mechanism. tore free.  A very good repair, sir

[peter lena 8,632]

@Mike C160  the problem started with the original flat spring  strength , and not enough washer on,under the bolt stop . that strong spring " rocking / moving " against a vastly thinner base area is the issue . regularly use 5/16 and 3/8 " flat bar stock to solidify a bomb proof problem area . also use " fender washers " much wider than original .found going much stronger in that area , eliminates any rocking issues . pete