Mike C160 251 #1 Posted June 16, 2020 Greetings I noticed the manual calls for SAE 140 for the transmission. SAE 140 is not a common oil in my neck of the woods. Do you think that 90/110 would suffice? Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #2 Posted June 16, 2020 Most of us use 90 weight... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,343 #3 Posted June 16, 2020 80/90 is fine. I run the cheapest stuff I can find. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C160 251 #4 Posted June 16, 2020 Ok, Thanks fellas. Just wanted to make sure the grade change doesn't affect seals or operation. Cheers 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,343 #5 Posted June 16, 2020 Just now, Mike C160 said: Ok, Thanks fellas. Just wanted to make sure the grade change doesn't affect seals or operation. Cheers most of the time grade change won't affect seals. That's when you go from something like regular oil to ATF or ps fluid. these transmissions are so rugged that you can install most things that resemble oil in them and they'll tolerate it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C160 251 #6 Posted June 16, 2020 1 minute ago, ebinmaine said: most of the time grade change won't affect seals. That's when you go from something like regular oil to ATF or ps fluid. these transmissions are so rugged that you can install most things that resemble oil in them and they'll tolerate it. Ok I used to work as a tech for Porsche. I remember the days when synthetic and other standard oil additive came out. Many of these products caused seal failure in some of the older Porsches. It was a nightmare. So im still suffering PTSD on oil grades from those days I suppose :) Thanks and Cheers. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C160 251 #7 Posted June 16, 2020 5 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: most of the time grade change won't affect seals. That's when you go from something like regular oil to ATF or ps fluid. these transmissions are so rugged that you can install most things that resemble oil in them and they'll tolerate it. I suppose I better ask about the motor too. Does it require SAE 30 as the manual states? of do you guys run a multigrade? Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,343 #8 Posted June 16, 2020 18 minutes ago, Mike C160 said: I suppose I better ask about the motor too. Does it require SAE 30 as the manual states? of do you guys run a multigrade? Cheers Engine oil is one of those things where you're going to find about as many opinions as you do people. Different folks have had different luck or different horror stories with different brands over different decades. I don't have it handy but there is an oil chart put out by Kohler engine. Basically you want to have a straight 30 DETERGENT oil anywhere above freezing and it will tolerate it some below. Normally I run a 10 w 30 oil during the winter because we do use two of our horses for plowing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C160 251 #9 Posted June 16, 2020 2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Engine oil is one of those things where you're going to find about as many opinions as you do people. Different folks have had different luck or different horror stories with different brands over different decades. I don't have it handy but there is an oil chart put out by Kohler engine. Basically you want to have a straight 30 DETERGENT oil anywhere above freezing and it will tolerate it some below. Normally I run a 10 w 30 oil during the winter because we do use two of our horses for plowing. ok, Detergent always made sense to me. I was always hesitant to run the old SAE 30 non detergent as sludge always build up in air cooled engines. Now to see if I can find some. Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,343 #10 Posted June 16, 2020 2 minutes ago, Mike C160 said: ok, Detergent always made sense to me. I was always hesitant to run the old SAE 30 non detergent as sludge always build up in air cooled engines. Now to see if I can find some. Cheers I normally buy my maintenance items online. It's just easier that way. I have my own parts department in a way. I try to keep a small stock of common maintenance items for all of our small engine or equipment. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bottjernat1 2,190 #11 Posted June 16, 2020 Here is what i used in a 856 i sold and my 1973 no name i have. still working good no issues! VID_20200427_182917437.mp4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bottjernat1 2,190 #12 Posted June 16, 2020 (edited) In the engine as stated everyone has there way of doing things. I grew up my late dad used sae 30 all year around the manuals call for most k series to use a lighter oil in the winter. My dads theory was if your really using your machine in the winter you are going to get it just as hot as you would in the summer. I have stuck with sae 30 all year around in the old cast iron blocks and never ran into an issue ever. Of course some of this new stuff cant hack the thickness of oil like the old gals can so to be on the safe side do as the manual says! My theory on oil in the old k series is i like the oil thick just like my lady! And I dont have any issues with her either. LOL! This is what i use in the engines in the old gals Edited June 16, 2020 by bottjernat1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C160 251 #13 Posted June 16, 2020 3 minutes ago, bottjernat1 said: In the engine as stated everyone has there way of doing things. I grew up my late dad used sae 30 all year around the manuals call for most k series to use a lighter oil in the winter. My dads theory was if your really using your machine in the winter you are going to get it just as hot as you would in the summer. I have stuck with sae 30 all year around in the old cast iron blocks and never ran into an issue ever. Of course some of this new stuff cant hack the thickness of oil like the old gals can so to be on the safe side do as the manual says! My theory on oil in the old k series is i like the oil think just like my lady! And I dont have any issues with her either. LOL! I hear you on 30 weight. However I think Eric's idea of using a 30 weight with a detergent is a great idea. Prior to working for Porsche, I worked for VW for many years. Ive had more VW air cooled engines apart than I would care to write a book about. What I noticed was straight SAE 30 left sludge build up on the bottom of the block. It was substantial in my opinion. Once the new detergents came out, this problem went away. The nice part about detergents is that it keeps dirt in suspension so it can be filtered out or drained out rather than sitting in the engine. Hence im going to see if I can find some SAE 30 with detergent. Cheers 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,324 #14 Posted June 16, 2020 I run synthetic gear oil in all of my manual trans horses with no leaks. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
857 horse 2,581 #15 Posted June 16, 2020 HEY MIKE........ANOTHER THING...........ETHANOL FREE FUEL......!!!!!!!!!!!! BIG DEAL WITH THIS CROWD ,,,,,NEW FUEL FILTER AND FUEL LINES...... 857 HORSE IN VA 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Howie 892 #16 Posted June 17, 2020 That oil pictured above is rated SN so it is a deteergent oil. I buy quite a bit of it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelsey 91 #17 Posted June 17, 2020 On 6/16/2020 at 3:18 PM, 857 horse said: HEY MIKE........ANOTHER THING...........ETHANOL FREE FUEL......!!!!!!!!!!!! BIG DEAL WITH THIS CROWD ,,,,,NEW FUEL FILTER AND FUEL LINES...... 857 HORSE IN VA +1 on the ethanol free gas. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JP56 39 #18 Posted June 20, 2020 Will using SAE 85W-140 lube instead of SAE 90 lube, make any difference in the performance or wear in my 1988 312-8 transmission? Lately it seems that after mowing for about 15 or 20 minutes, the tractor starts moving slower. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C160 251 #19 Posted June 20, 2020 1 minute ago, JP56 said: Will using SAE 85W-140 lube instead of SAE 90 lube, make any difference in the performance or wear in my 1988 312-8 transmission? Lately it seems that after mowing for about 15 or 20 minutes, the tractor starts moving slower. if its a standard gear based transmission and not hydro, The oil should not make any difference in tractor speed. Drive belt and engine issues can effect that tho. Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,343 #20 Posted June 20, 2020 Just now, Mike C160 said: if its a standard gear based transmission and not hydro, The oil should not make any difference in tractor speed. Drive belt and engine issues can effect that tho. Cheers I'll second that Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C160 251 #21 Posted June 20, 2020 Wow wee. I have flushed this transmission 4 times now and the oil is still running dirty....Slowly getting there... Motor flush only twice before it ran clean. It now has fresh detergent based SAE 30 in it 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,343 #22 Posted June 20, 2020 5 minutes ago, Mike C160 said: flushed this transmission 2 quarts of diesel and drive it around a little bit in each gear during each flush? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C160 251 #23 Posted June 20, 2020 2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: 2 quarts of diesel and drive it around a little bit in each gear during each flush? Close. I has some clean Kerosene. Last flush was with cheap 10W30. Its now got 90 in it. I will dump it again a few times over the summer. its better than what it was. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,343 #24 Posted June 20, 2020 14 minutes ago, Mike C160 said: Close. I has some clean Kerosene. Last flush was with cheap 10W30. Its now got 90 in it. I will dump it again a few times over the summer. its better than what it was. K1 is good. Best bet I've found is either k1 or diesel. Whichever is handy for me. A little over 2 quarts. Drive it around in each gear for a couple minutes each. Be sure to do some corners. Drain and repeat as necessary being sure to get the front end of the tractor as high off the ground as safely possible while draining. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom2p 2,394 #25 Posted June 22, 2020 On 6/16/2020 at 2:39 PM, bottjernat1 said: In the engine as stated everyone has there way of doing things. I grew up my late dad used sae 30 all year around the manuals call for most k series to use a lighter oil in the winter. My dads theory was if your really using your machine in the winter you are going to get it just as hot as you would in the summer. I have stuck with sae 30 all year around in the old cast iron blocks and never ran into an issue ever. Of course some of this new stuff cant hack the thickness of oil like the old gals can so to be on the safe side do as the manual says! My theory on oil in the old k series is i like the oil thick just like my lady! And I dont have any issues with her either. LOL! This is what i use in the engines in the old gals the benefit of multi grade oil is not when the engine is at operating temperature (hot) - but at lower temperatures at start-up (cold) most engine wear occurs at start up - especially cold start Share this post Link to post Share on other sites