Mower deck spindles not sitting level.

[Charrie 18]

I want to thank everyone who does such a wonderful job helping others here and hopefully one day I will know enough to contribute something too!

 

We bought our 1994 Wheel Horse 520H with a 48” mower deck last summer from the original owner. He warned us that the mower deck was rusting through in some areas and said he couldn't us give any idea how long it would last. There are 2 small areas on the outer corners that had been repaired and the rest of the deck looked great. He also said that the blades were not even and that he tired shimming them with washers to make them cut even but to no avail. He also said that it had been fully serviced and was ready to go for the year so we used it after checking the fluids and greasing the fittings.

 

Well I already posted about needing to change one of the spindles but with the deck off and turned over, I know why the blades are not cutting even, the spindle housings are tilted. More accurately the part of the mower deck shell that the spindle housings bolt to, appears to be bent right at the spindles.

 

The center spindle is the one that is bent the most. The other two, with the mower deck upside down, when you run your hand across the metal, you feel a slight dip around the area where the spindle housings bolt on. Perhaps that is normal and just the center one is bent?

Also there is some damage on the front of the deck where the center roller mounts. The deck is bent in wards and I can see where the blade once was hitting on the metal in that area. There is also signs where the blade was hitting on the rear baffle at one time. Since we have been using the mower I have never heard the blades hit metal inside and the damage looks old.

I don't think the deck is rusted out. We haven't finished cleaning the deck up real good yet but the metal appears to be solid.

 

Has anyone had to deal with this problem and what to do?

 

I will get some more pictures later today after we clean the deck a bit better and try to post them.

 

Thanks

Charrie

[daveoman1966 3,745]

The deck is bent in wards and I can see where the blade once was hitting on the metal in that area. 

p.o. probably ran the front anti-scalp roller into a big root, or something, that bent it backward.  This isn't so tough to bend back to approx where it should be.  1) Flip upside-down...in the grass.  2) remove center blade, if wanted.  3) use a BIG post mall to pound the front edge of the deck back into position...may take a few applications.  While it is flipped over, you can do the same with the baffles, but use a smaller hammer...and a bakcing block...to pound it back to position.  p.s...if you do this on a concrete floor, the deck will slide around...it won't slide much in the grass. 

 

The center spindle is the one that is bent the most   

To correct this, you will likely have to remove the spindle from the housing. 1) find a STRAIGH 2x4 ...about 4' long.  2) lay it flat in the upside-down deck, straddling the 2 outer spindles. 3) look for where the 2x4 'rocks' on the high spots of the deck shell. 4)hold a ball-peen hammer (or block of HARD wood) on the high spot(s) and smack that with a BIGGER hammer to flatten the deck back to a flat position. Again...m,ay take a few applications.  Don't hit so hard as to crack the sheet metal ....it'll bend back to shape, little by little.      

   

Edited June 14, 2020 by daveoman1966

[Lee1977 6,601]

I've pulled the front of the deck out using a large pipe wrench fasten it down tight on the deck edge stand on the deck an pull up. I fixed that by welding a 3/8" bar around the front of the deck.It's easy to do. 

Weld it fast pull it in and clamp it weld again about every 3 or 4".

You really need a large square wood beam under the deck where you are going to knock it back down.  Would be best to have two to keep the deck level. .

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,000]

I was under the impression all 48" decks have the top reinforcement plate. If so hard to believe it is bent.

If it is it will take a much bigger hammer.

 

Garry

[Charrie 18]

Yes it does have a reinforcement plate on the top of the deck that the pulley covers fasten to! And yes at least the shoot side of the reinforcement plate is bent. It appears like once you take all of the spindle housing bolts out and then a couple more, the plate will be loose from the deck. I did n9ot see any places where it is welded to the deck.

 

 

You can see one of the repairs above where the PO used large washers and a bolt to cover the rusted hole.

 

Below is a pic where I took short 2x4s I had and laid them across the top of the spindle housings to see how level they are. The outer one that is tilted is the one closest to the shout.

 

 

Below are pictures of the bottom of the deck. There was a couple of small places in one of the bends where the metal did flake. in some other places there appears to be some light pitting. Maybe some of you guys with more experience can give me your opinion.

 

 

 

And last, there are some cracks where the brackets that hold the tractor mounting hardware to the deck.

 

 

 

So what do you all think I need to do?

 

Are deck shells available ?

 

Thanks

Charrie

 

 

 

Edited June 15, 2020 by Charrie

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,000]

I would not be afraid to weld it up. I usually drill about a 3/16" hole beyond the crack since I don't have xray equipment to see how far the crack extends. It will go further but not be visible.

 

Had one 42" without the plate that was real bad around the spindles and brazed the cracks with gas/bronze rod and the cracks never returned. I also balanced the blades which I believe is necessary to eliminate cracking.

See this deck once a year for blade sharpening and 6 year old repairs are still holding.

I made my own blade balancer using a ball bearing because I was not satisfied with the cone balancers or hanging the blade on a nail.

 

The cracks at the mounting hardware are more apt to be caused by rough ground or travelling too fast. Would likely add reinforcement plates under the deck following the welding if I was doing it.

 

We also remove the decks after a cutting event. Scrap out the cuttings and store the deck standing up on the rear wheels. This allows it to dry out so they do not rust out.

 

A 1994 deck shell comes with 2 decals attached for the tidy sum of $1,380.

https://www.partstree.com/models/78360-toro-48-side-discharge-mower-deck-sn-049000001-049999999-1994/cutting-unit-assembly-1/

 

Keep your eyes open for a used deck. These are the best candidates because of the blade center hole and replacement blade availability.

Note - 3/4" or .750" is 19.05mm

1977 model 75-48MS02 - Uses 6203 bearings with 3/4" ID - (First deck to use blades with 3/4" center hole) - Originally had a nylon-insert nut holding spindle pulley on.

1978 model 85-48MS01 - Uses 6203 bearings with 3/4" ID - Originally had a nylon-insert nut holding spindle pulley on.

1979 model 95-48MS00 - Uses 6203 bearings with 3/4" ID - Originally had a nylon-insert nut holding spindle pulley on.

1979 model 95-48MS01 - Uses 6203 bearings with 3/4" ID - Originally had a nylon-insert nut holding spindle pulley on.

1980 model 05-48MS01 - Uses 6203 bearings with 3/4" ID - Originally had a nylon-insert nut holding spindle pulley on.

1981-1983 model 05-48MS02 - Uses 6203 bearings with 3/4" ID - Originally had a nylon-insert nut holding spindle pulley on.

1984 model 05-48MS03 - Uses 6203 bearings with 3/4" ID - Originally had a nylon-insert nut holding spindle pulley on.

 

Note - 17mm is .669"

1985 model 05-48MS04 - Uses 6203 bearings with 17mm ID - Originally had a standard nut and lockwasher holding spindle pulley on.

1986-1988 model 05-48MS05 - Uses 6203 bearings with 17mm ID - Originally had a standard nut and lockwasher holding spindle pulley on.

1987-1988 model 05-48SC01 - Uses 6203 bearings with 17mm ID - Originally had a standard nut and lockwasher holding spindle pulley on.

1989 model 15-48SC01 - Uses 6203 bearings with 17mm ID - Originally had a standard nut and lockwasher holding spindle pulley on.

1990 model 15-48SC02 - Uses 6203 bearings with 17mm ID - Originally had a standard nut and lockwasher holding spindle pulley on.

1991-1992 model 15-48SC03 - Uses 6203 bearings with 17mm ID - Originally had a standard nut and lockwasher holding spindle pulley on.

1993-1997 model 78360 - Uses 6203 bearings with 17mm ID - Originally had a standard nut and lockwasher holding spindle pulley on.

1998-2007 and 2009-12 model 78361 - Uses 6203 bearings with 17mm ID - (These all use blades with 3/4" center hole) - Originally had a standard nut and lockwasher holding spindle pulley on.

 

Garry

[Charrie 18]

Thank you Garry for the very helpful information. The new deck shells are fairly expensive aren't they? I think for right now I will have the cracks welded up.

  I spend most of the day dissembling the deck and using a angle grinder with a wire wheel to clean all the areas with cracks.  I was thinking to take the deck to a muffler shop near by and see if they could weld the cracks. We have a welder but it has been years and years since I tried to weld anything. My father taught me some basic welding skills when I was still at home. It is an arc welder and only goes down to 90 I believe but the last time I tired to turn it 9on, the fan was not running, probably rusted up!

So was thinking the guys at muffler shops work with thin metal all day and might be able to do a good job. What do you think?

I will drill holes just out from the ends of the cracks like you suggest. They only need to be welded from one side don't they? Also I should be able to grind the weld down smooth if needed? I cleaned the underside thinking the welds would be easier to deal with on the under side as they are just bolt heads and the brackets are on the top side.

 

I don't know what the PO did but all three spindles are bent. The shoot side is the worst with the middle about half of the outer and the far closed end just the slightest bit. They are all bent through the reinforcement plate. They are al bent in the same direction like perhaps he was hung up on something big and used a truck or tractor you pull it loose, hanging on the blades as it went. The PO told me the blade height was off but it is not the height, it is the angles of the first and middle blade making an appearance in the cut grass  that one blade is lower then the other.

 

So for now I think it is fix the cracks, straighten the bent metal so the blades will be close to straight, use some ospho to stop any more rust and put it all back together with new bearings and run it for the summer.

Anyway here are some pics  of what I did today.

 

[Stormin 9,981]

 When I got my C-125 some years back, the rear discharge deck was in a rather bad way. The top was badly rusted and actually gave way round one spindle.

 I see you aren't up to welding yourself, but you could do as I did and get someone to do the welding. Look here. Photobucket have spoilt the photo's, but you can still see the general Idea. Top was cut out with a jigsaw and 3/4 angle iron used as stiffeners. Feel free to ask any questions.

 

Edited June 17, 2020 by Stormin

[tunahead72 2,399]

1 hour ago, Stormin said:

 ... Look here. Photobucket have spoilt the photo's, but you can still see the general Idea...

 

Really nice job on that deck, Norm! 

 

It probably depends on your computer software, but I just found that if you click on a photo in that thread, you'll be able to see it in all its glory, with no Photobucket interference.

 

[Stormin 9,981]

2 hours ago, tunahead72 said:

 

Really nice job on that deck, Norm! 

 

It probably depends on your computer software, but I just found that if you click on a photo in that thread, you'll be able to see it in all its glory, with no Photobucket interference.

 

 

  Yes! I meant to  mention that, Ed.

[Charrie 18]

Great job Stormin! Yes if I could weld I would l think seriously about rebuilding this deck myself.

I took the deck to a shop that advertised as a welding shop but when I got there, they are a fabrication shop with a full machine shop. Over the phone he said since I had done most of the hard work, they just needed to weld it and that shouldn't be more then 1/2hr and would cost $25!  So once I got the deck there we talked a bit more in depth and he said he would see what he could do about the rusted corners..  So in a couple of days we will see what we get back!

 

Is there a specific red paint for wheel horse?

 

Thanks

Charrie

[Charrie 18]

Well I got the deck back and was impressed with all the work for the price! He said it took about an hour and he only charged $45 but I think it might have taken longer.

I had used an angle grinder with a wire brush on it to clean all the areas that needed welded and then following Garry's advice, took a small drill bit and drilled a hole just past  the end of each crack. All except for 1 and they did not weld that one either! I think I will take the deck to the Muffler shop up the street and see if he will weld that one crack. 

I do not know how the shop did it but in one area they filled in a  badly pitted area and ground it back down. They also straightened the deck around the spindle holes and straightened the reinforcement plate.

  I believe it will be fine for several more years if I keep it cleaned and primed underneath.

I really like the way Stormin did his fantastic repair and when my deck gets to the point where it rusted through I will try to do the repair like he did.

 

So below are some pics. I did not do a proper job preparing the deck for paint because I figure in  a few years we will be rebuilding it properly.  The deck was pretty clean and I used a sanding sponge over most of it and then used a primer followed with a red paint. I think the color was sunset red. Not quite the same color but pretty close. Later when we have to rebuild the deck I will have it sand blasted.

 

Here Here is where one of the washers was covering a hole.

 

 

[Tuneup 1,433]

Georgia mountains, eh? Where is this machine shop and I'm wondering if they do boring work...west Georgia mountains here.

[Charrie 18]

Widow Welding

1208 New East Morris St, Dalton, GA 30721

(706) 529-4251

I believe they do. They seemed like great people to do business with and are a family owned business. I think why my price was so low is that is what they quoted me to start with and I also overheard one of the guys telling another that he would teach him how to fill the corners. He quoted me an hours work but I believe it took much longer.

 

[Kelsey 91]

 

That's an outstanding repair job on your mower deck. I like how the welds are still visible

and painted to tell everyone of its battle scars. 

[Charrie 18]

Thank you, I thought they did a great job too!. They said they would have ground the welds down but that it would take away from the strength. 

  Right now though I am having trouble with the spindles. I took them apart, cleaned them, installed new bearings, and one new shaft which I put in the middle. I have the blades back on all three and with the belt off, the outer two spin freely but the middle one with the new shaft does not.  The outer two spin 8 to 10 revolutions while using the same force on the middle shaft only turns 3 or 4. I am going to try putting the old shaft back in and see how it spins. If there is no improvement then I will swap shafts with one of the outer ones. If that doesn't work then I'll pull the new bearings and swap them.

The new shaft is supposed to be a genuine Toro part but I guess it could be defective.     

[Stormin 9,981]

Before you try the shafts, try giving the bearings a tap on the outer races. One might not be sitting true. That can cause resistance.