chex313 123 #1 Posted June 9, 2020 (edited) I pulled the front wheel off to replace the bearing, as the wheel had a bad wobble when tugged on. Does the bushing that was left on the axle (Which is causing 90% of the problem) belong pressed into the wheel hub? Also does the part in the hub need to pressed out? The Timkin needle bearing doesn't seem to be bad , but I am guessing it should be replaced also? Everything was greased well enough. Thanks for the help Edited June 9, 2020 by chex313 add pics Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAinVA 4,620 #2 Posted June 9, 2020 The bushing you have is not pressed on.All the ones i have seen just slide on.With that said I always clean both it and the spindle with brake clean.I then lock the bushing on the spindle with blue locktite Stock trailer axles have this 1 1/4" area as a machined section so it doesn't rotate.I just do it on the 520 so the seal lip rotates on a fixed surface.If the bearing cups and cones are in good shape then the play is adjusted by tightening the castellated nut. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chex313 123 #3 Posted June 9, 2020 Thanks Jim, That makes it pretty simple. There was too much space for the cotter pin to lock the Castle nut. If the putting the new parts in doesn't correct that I'll add an extra washer or 2 to move the nut out some. It was loose. I am thinking Napa can match that bushing? It has no markings. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skipper 1,788 #4 Posted June 9, 2020 (edited) Toro has them at a relatively small price. I just got a few. Look up the part number in the parts manual for your machine. The bushing is the same for all the 1" front spindles I have seen. If the bearing is good, you should be OK with just a new seal and bushing, and shimming out and getting the castle nut locked in place as you already suggested. Im sure you know this, but just in case. The castle nut should only be tightened enough to take out the play in the bearing, and no more. If the wheel don't spin freely, it is way too tight. too little and too much is hard on the bearing. Oh and the other side will probably be the same too wear wise. The wobble has nothing to do with the bushing. That and the seal is there to space out and keep the grease inn. Also when the wheels are off, now is a good time to check for play, and check the bearing and pressure washers, in the front axle/spindle joint. (and checking the rest of the steering gear too, and get it greased up good) Edited June 9, 2020 by Skipper 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chex313 123 #5 Posted June 9, 2020 Thanks Guys, Thanks Jim and Skipper, what you said about the bushing , I found out over the phone from my friend/owner of the local Toro dealer. That the bushing is just a spacer and wouldn't cause the wobble. I was on my way back from the Bearing shop. I picked up the Bearing with the race. and a bronze bushing (They did not have steel). So anyway it must be the tapered rolling bearing. The seal side I want to try not to touch until I have to, It still holds the grease in and the seal may have to be ordered from Toro. I hammered the old race out with a cold chisel. I have the new race started...Am I going to need a press for this? Like is that the easiest..I don't want to waste too much time trying to do it by hand. Or beat up the race. Pics, old one out new one started... and the wheels get cleaned up and painted next...(Sorry for making you look at them) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAinVA 4,620 #6 Posted June 9, 2020 Press is best but I have installed many with a block of wood.Brass hammer is an option as well.Steel hammer on the race is a no no.Wev'e all been around long enough to see rust but we never like seeing it.Luck,JAinVA 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chex313 123 #7 Posted June 9, 2020 A block of wood is what I was using on top of the old race to get it started. If I can get it below the lip I can get an impact socket it on it, and that should work...I'll try a while longer and than take it down to our Fleet Center. Its the 3rd time in the last 6 months I have needed a press...I keep thinking its the last time, but its the best thing for the job. Thank You Jim 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,160 #8 Posted June 9, 2020 Hear ya about the press …. Buy one and you won't use it but sure is handy when you. do. When I catch myself being a backyard hammer mechanic I think hey dummy you have a press! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chex313 123 #9 Posted June 9, 2020 (edited) Good news was the 36 mm impact socket for my jeep axle was an exact fit to drive the bearing in. The bad news is the inside bearing is bad. I am going to take it down to the Toro dealer and make sure I get the right seal for the inside. I don't know how to get that seal out without destroying it. I imagine the bearing will just be another Timkin. Edited June 9, 2020 by chex313 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAinVA 4,620 #10 Posted June 9, 2020 If you write down the bearing numbers(cup and cone} then if you ever have to do the other side you are not held hostage to Toro WH. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,354 #11 Posted June 9, 2020 I just buy the 1" trailer wheel bearing kits at auto parts stores, most of the parts fit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,160 #12 Posted June 9, 2020 (edited) The seal is a very common trailer hub type seal. 1 1/4 ID X ???? Will run out to the shop and get you numbers as soon as it's done raining pitchforks & hammer handles. Don't worry about wrecking it you should replace it anyway. Just pry it out. When you drive them races in use grease on them... they sail in much easier. Edited June 9, 2020 by WHX24 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,160 #13 Posted June 9, 2020 (edited) Here ya go Chex.. sorry about the sideways... Edited June 9, 2020 by WHX24 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chex313 123 #14 Posted June 10, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, JAinVA said: If you write down the bearing numbers(cup and cone} then if you ever have to do the other side you are not held hostage to Toro WH. Actually he doesn't have the parts on the shelf and knows I probably won't buy them there. He just likes the old machines being kept running. He had a couple of customers when I called at closing and I told him I would stop in with the wheel so he could verify the part #'s. I always save my receipts. Edited June 10, 2020 by chex313 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chex313 123 #15 Posted June 10, 2020 41 minutes ago, WHX24 said: Here ya go Chex.. sorry about the sideways... Thanks I'll call around tomorrow, the stores around me are not showing this online in stock. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,160 #16 Posted June 10, 2020 (edited) Your They can be had off the jungle site or fleabay right to your door... I got four 520's ... I buy in bulk Edited June 10, 2020 by WHX24 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chex313 123 #17 Posted June 10, 2020 (edited) So in conclusion neither of the bearings was worn out and the grease seal is OK. I made the bushing/spacer on the inside a 1/4 " longer that allowed the castle nut to finally tighten. I made something simple complicated... With the original bushing the threads would run out before the nut tightened anything. Pumped it full of fresh grease inside and out and capped it. Now for the axle seal...Rear Axle Seals - Transmissions and transaxles - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum Edited June 10, 2020 by chex313 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
