Removing Hub-Help

[RedRover 27]

I finally removed the hub from my 312-8 in order to replace bad axle oil seal.....The key remains tight on the axle.....Obviously, the key will need to be removed.  What is the best way to remove the key?

[WHX?? 49,158]

Just take a sharp cold chisel and start at the outside edge and keep working it back and forth. Penetrants help soak it. You will ruin the key but it's expendable...  just a #15 woodruff. I'll send you a new one need be. Careful axle is not. You got the hub off the battle is almost won.

Bad news here is grab a hold of the axle and see if ther is up and down movement. If ther is let us know. 

Edited June 2, 2020 by WHX24

[8ntruck 7,083]

You might want to take a flat stone or a fine file and remove any material that was displaced by the dimple the set screw made.

 

This will make it easier/safer to install the new seal and probably the hub, too.

[JoeM 7,874]

spiral one layer of electrical tape starting at the seal area out to the end of the shaft. That will keep the key or defects in the shaft from tearing the new seal. Putting a little grease on the seal helps with installation.  

[ebinmaine 68,342]

I've read about folks that have had to use a tiny little die grinder and cut those keys out. I have not had to do that yet. I have had a couple fight me tooth and nail.

What I've done is to support the axle directly under the key with something like a pile of wood blocks or a jack stand. Blocks preferred because they're soft.

Take a small hammer and tap each end of that key like you're trying to make it do a seesaw motion. often after a few hits in each direction you'll be able to detect minuscule movement.

 

Supporting the end of the axle makes it so you can get a little more ambitious with the hammer if need be.

 

When you go to reinstall the seal, very carefully check the edges of the key slot. They can be razor sharp. deburr that a little bit. Flat file works great.

For tape I have used both electrical and Scotch. I only put a thin stripe over the key way.

 

You should only have about 1/16 of up-and-down movement. Less is better.

If there is more than that you could put it back together and run it but you'll be back in there before too awful long because the wheel bearing is worn.

 

[ri702bill 8,496]

All:

Years ago, back in the 80's, I was working for a local specialty Machine Tool Builder. One of the guys came up with an adapter that replaced the 5/16-18 adjusting screw on a pair of straight nosed locking pliers (aka Vise Grips) and the other end was tapped 1/2-20 to allow it to have a dent puller slide hammer attached to it. Lock the pliers onto one end of the key perpendicular to the axle, give it a few upwards yanks with the slide hammer and the key comes out without damage. We all made one for this and other adapters with set screws to allow us to extract hollow pull dowels. Sorry, I do not have pictures - but you get the idea...…….

 

Bill

[ebinmaine 68,342]

14 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

All:

Years ago, back in the 80's, I was working for a local specialty Machine Tool Builder. One of the guys came up with an adapter that replaced the 5/16-18 adjusting screw on a pair of straight nosed locking pliers (aka Vise Grips) and the other end was tapped 1/2-20 to allow it to have a dent puller slide hammer attached to it. Lock the pliers onto one end of the key perpendicular to the axle, give it a few upwards yanks with the slide hammer and the key comes out without damage. We all made one for this and other adapters with set screws to allow us to extract hollow pull dowels. Sorry, I do not have pictures - but you get the idea...…….

 

Bill

That right there is just awesome

[71_Bronco 1,072]

I recently had one that was stubborn for me. I hit the key back and forth (see-saw motion as described), but only minor movement. I used the chisel method next, didn't budge. Tried vise grips and tapping them with a hammer, but the vise grips slipped off. Yes, liberal ammounts of penetrating oil was used.

 

I finally got it out by using a little map-gas torch. Heated up the axle a little (didnt change color), and then tried the cold chisel. That worked, and was able to slowly pop it free.

[Pullstart 63,096]

2 hours ago, ri702bill said:

All:

Years ago, back in the 80's, I was working for a local specialty Machine Tool Builder. One of the guys came up with an adapter that replaced the 5/16-18 adjusting screw on a pair of straight nosed locking pliers (aka Vise Grips) and the other end was tapped 1/2-20 to allow it to have a dent puller slide hammer attached to it. Lock the pliers onto one end of the key perpendicular to the axle, give it a few upwards yanks with the slide hammer and the key comes out without damage. We all made one for this and other adapters with set screws to allow us to extract hollow pull dowels. Sorry, I do not have pictures - but you get the idea...…….

 

Bill

I’ve been meaning to put a picture in the “homemade tools” Section... but I’ve got one or two of those 

[edgro 677]

My otc "silver slapper" slide puller set came with one. The vicegrip I have on it I ground it crossways to get a better bite when pulling

[RedRover 27]

14 hours ago, WHX24 said:

Just take a sharp cold chisel and start at the outside edge and keep working it back and forth. Penetrants help soak it. You will ruin the key but it's expendable...  just a #15 woodruff. I'll send you a new one need be. Careful axle is not. You got the hub off the battle is almost won.

Bad news here is grab a hold of the axle and see if ther is up and down movement. If ther is let us know. 

Hello again.....there is slight movement up and down...more than 1/16" as one within the forum mentioned.  I think the reason you wanted to know is because the needle bearing is "shot".  After draining the oil fluid, I used a small magnet to fish out several pieces of the bearing and a few pieces of the complete needle bearing unit....Now what?  Fortunately, I have a next door neighbor that is a "whiz" at this type work....

[ebinmaine 68,342]

Looks like you're going to need to pop that transmission out of there and do some bearing replacement.

There are lots of good threads on this site and quite a good many of us who have been there.

 

It's surprisingly simple to get into one of these transmissions.

 

Wheel Horse parts and more which is one of our vendors will have all the stuff you need. A lot of the bearings and seals are available at good aftermarket parts stores as well.

 

Removing it from the tractor will be basic nuts and bolts. Take a few pictures. 

Just keep asking questions and jump right into it.