Shift-fork setup…

[3WHDave 60]

Help (simply put), my machine suffers from accidental reverse engagement when shifted into park (I have the early three-slot shiftier).  Can anyone post a picture of a properly set-up (functioning) D180 shift-fork setup?  A picture of the forks in between forward and revers, without being placed in neutral will do, I basically want to see the overlap if of the forks (if there is any).

 

Thanks in advance.

 

PS: my tractor tried to run over my work bench, and the bench lost.

[pfrederi 17,868]

Wish I colud help here but my three slot was remade with an instrument panel brake.  maybe you could source the linkages from A to Z and convert???

[3WHDave 60]

Is there a disk brake modification for the D series?  There appears to be plenty of axle exposed to mount the disk, the rest is just brackets and weld nets.  

[pfrederi 17,868]

Turning brakes were an option

 

 

 

Edited May 29, 2020 by pfrederi

[3WHDave 60]

Thank you Paul, this brake option is great to know and I will track-down an old system or fabricate one.  I did rebuild the shift-links as they were worn beyond reason.  All of my efforts to set-up the shift system failed due to slop.  The link trunnions and receiving holes were elongated, burnished and had at least 0.020 clearance, allowing for 1/2 inch of free-play at the shift forks, not tasty at all!  Below are some pictures of how I resolved the slop.  I will spare many words, the pictures tell most-all, but it is important to know the following:

• The bearings are bronze, not brass.  There is a world of difference, and the two are not to be confused.  I have designed many dynamic mechanisms with plain bearings over the years, many requiring steam autoclave and exposure to harsh chemicals, and the best plain-bearing arrangements are those with dissimilar materials, one hard, one soft and a grain structure which mitigates galling (sp?).  If you have the ability to machine your own, use Ampco-18, great stuff!
• I bought the bushing at Ace Hardware and they required no diametrical change.
• The bearings come in nominal sizes, pick the ID and live with the OD (3/8 ID at top of link, 1/2 ID at valve end)
• I used a sheet metal drill to open up the old holes to avoid the infamous “tricordial” hole (shape of a Wankel motor piston).  If you do not have a sheet metal drill, get one, you will never regret it.

All of the work performed was done so with a hacksaw, hand-drill, file and bench grinder (two wheel, rough and fine).  End result: the fork has about .030 free play at the shift lever.

 

On a side note, and as dumb as it sounds, I realized that, with the brake disconnected, the park position is useless.  So, do I still put it in  park? You bet, my compulsive addictive behavior wins almost always!

[3WHDave 60]

I must be doing something wrong, or be missing something.  With respect to all of my efforts above, the shift forks fall out of alinement all the time.  Basically, when it put my tractor in park position (D-180 w/ a 3-slot shift pattern), and then attempt to go back into motion, it doesn’t line-up with the drive fork.  Does the hydrostatic pump seek a neutral position at the lever?  I did purchase a set of used forks and will be repeating the whole set-up, but I’m reaching out to seek advice from those whom have met this challenge!  Thanks in advance, still having fun with the monster. ( I don’t typically name material objects, boats, cars, things, but this machine IS a monster of the small tractor world!)