littleredrider 409 #26 Posted May 24, 2020 8 hours ago, Vurge said: A 63 lawn ranger is a round hood, but also has rounded rear fenders. Some call em clam shells. I had a bunch of horses n parts n whatnot years ago, I lived in an apartment, and ex wife, so sold em all. I wish I kept em, but had no where to put em. @littleredrider- is your Lawn Ranger similar to the 606? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 57,722 #27 Posted May 24, 2020 9 hours ago, Vurge said: Or is it second step? Once you have checked out the functionality of the transmission by hand if you have a small electric motor and a way to temporarily mount it I would suggest testing the transmission with that. Next jack up the front end of the and drain the transmission. If it is good clean oil that came out (highly unlikely) you will want to replace it with new 80-90 gear oil. If it looks more like a chocolate milkshake the transmission needs to be flushed out with a couple quarts of diesel fuel or kerosene. this is where that electric motor will be very useful, you want to work the diesel/kerosene into the bearings and slosh it around well to flush everything inside. If you have any seals that need to be replaced they will show up with the lower viscosity fluid too. Another task you need to tend to is the fuel system. Check the fuel tank for cleanliness and leaks, also replace the fuel line and filter. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 57,722 #28 Posted May 24, 2020 (edited) posted twice Edited May 24, 2020 by 953 nut Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vurge 158 #29 Posted May 25, 2020 The front end was all rusted together and I could only roll the 606 back and forth. A good soaking of all the joints freed it up enough to get about a 1/4 of the steering wheel. Good enough to get it into the shop after a few 20 point turns. Further lubing and working the steering has now freed everything up! Spent some time tinkering last night and here's what I got Wisconsin Robin Engine Good: Runs just fine after a good cleaning! Gave it an oil change since the old stuff was super black. Bad: Someone stripped the carburetor threads where the fuel bowl bolt goes in.... This is what happens when you decide to do delicate work at midnight! Good: Apparently fixable with a helicoil. Have never used this before and look forward to learning how. Transmission Good: Spins and runs through all the gears just fine. Current clutch setup seems to work ok. Only ran it on stands for now. Good: I jacked up the front end this morning, but still less oil came out than I expected. Oil was dark and not milkshake! Questions 1. It seems like there should be more oil. My Craftsman GT5000 has a fill hole up high and seems to soak the transmission in oil. This 606 fill hole doesn't seem to allow for much oil Is that correct? I've put up a picture of what I think the manual describes as the fill plug. Circled in red. 2. What wheel hubs are compatible with the 606? The axles measure at exactly 1 inch. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,505 #30 Posted May 25, 2020 Nice work. Good progress. Glad to see that Wisconsin up and running. That makes a neat machine. On that transmission, you really want to try to get the front end of the machine as high off the ground as you can safely do so because there is a bump in the middle of the floor of the bottom of the transmission that holds a lot of the fluid in the front half of the transmission. That should hold about 1.5 quarts. I normally fill my transmissions right through the shifter hole. There is a dog point set screw holding the shifter in place. If the shift boot is anywhere near cracked please replace it. Hubs you can use would be off of any 3 or 4 speed transmission that uses the 1" axle. Or, call Lincoln at A To Z. Have him send you a set of hubs from an 80s vintage 310 or 312 with TWO set screws. Verify he understands it's for a 1" axle. The 80s vintage hubs are thicker and much heavier duty and 2 set screws is far far better than having only one. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vurge 158 #31 Posted May 26, 2020 Thanks Eric. I'm adding the wheel hub to the list of things I need to buy. I just took a look at the classified section here and wow-- these machines are so much more common and cheaper on the other coast. We don't have nearly as many garden tractors out west and regardless of whether is a lawn mower or more, they are priced a lot higher. Don't have any gear oil in shop so I couldn't give the 606 a test drive. Been thinking if I make sure my shoelaces are nice and tight, I might risk a test drive without the belt guard. A steering wheel would be nice though. While outside measuring the steering wheel shaft (in preparation for acquiring a new one), I noticed that regardless of the gear, I can push the tractor around.... Is that normal? Doesn't seem right. The belt's not moving at all when I'm pushing it. When I had it jacked up, the right side tire spun through the gears but not the left. I'd just assumed this was due to the differential, but now I'm not so sure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,505 #32 Posted May 26, 2020 Is there a way to see if the hubs are slipping on the axles? In gear/belt not moving I don't think you should be able to push it. Don't be too concerned though. These transmissions are super easy to repair once the rear hitch pin and hubs are off. I understand about the prices all too well. Seems here in Maine most folks think their old worn out non running Horse is platinum plated because it's "vintage". Not an issue. Trina and I do a fair amount of online shopping for ease and convenience. I've added a lot of our small equipment needs to that category. I keep a small Parts Dept here for common things as well. I buy in bulk to save money and whatever we need is already here when we want it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 64,421 #33 Posted May 26, 2020 Yeah, as Eric mentioned... the hub could be slipping due to a missing keyway. If you can put it in first and put the clutch in you could start it for a test ride but don’t shift without the belt guard in place. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vurge 158 #34 Posted May 26, 2020 You guys nailed it. BOTH hubs free spinning on the axles. I've been giving the hubs liberal soakings of penetrating oil and WD-40 in preparation for eventually taking them off. Doing too good of a job apparently. One of the benefits of living out here is that things don't rust as badly as other parts of the country. Now if only the steering wheel was so cooperative. I've been soaking that for much longer and no luck so far. Obviously this is my first Wheel Horse... is it a common thing for the keys to be missing!? I'm not sure how it even falls out... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,505 #35 Posted May 26, 2020 Missing. No. Sheared. It can happen. I've never tried to remove a steering wheel myself but there are a few who could give you good information about using a shop press if you have that available. if you're not trying to save the steering wheel OR shaft a sawzall is going to be your best friend. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vurge 158 #36 Posted May 28, 2020 I guess I'm going to be ordering up a hub and a set of keys before getting any further on this project. In the meantime, I'll continue soaking the steering wheel. No parts machines or any Wheel Horse machines are here as far as I know! I'll start a new thread with follow-up with I get parts I need. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,505 #37 Posted May 28, 2020 2 hours ago, Vurge said: I guess I'm going to be ordering up a hub and a set of keys before getting any further on this project. In the meantime, I'll continue soaking the steering wheel. No parts machines or any Wheel Horse machines are here as far as I know! I'll start a new thread with follow-up with I get parts I need. Might be a good idea to order both hubs while you're at it. You'll have them both off anyway. For the extra cost it'll be worth the value. Get the 4 transmission seals and a dust boot for the shifter. All easy stuff to install. If you get the hubs off and need axles post that too. One of us should have a lead on that... Neat little machine... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 64,421 #38 Posted May 28, 2020 looking forward to the progress you make... any chance we can hear that Robins engine running? It might be helpful to keep this thread going by the way... for your own records keeping if you need to go back and find something. It might not be too late to edit your first post to change the title to “my 606 project” or whatever you choose. If that can’t happen, there’s that “talk to the mods” part of the forum and you can always request it to be changed. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vurge 158 #39 Posted May 31, 2020 On 5/28/2020 at 4:37 AM, pullstart said: looking forward to the progress you make... any chance we can hear that Robins engine running? It might be helpful to keep this thread going by the way... for your own records keeping if you need to go back and find something. It might not be too late to edit your first post to change the title to “my 606 project” or whatever you choose. If that can’t happen, there’s that “talk to the mods” part of the forum and you can always request it to be changed. That's a good idea. I've got a replacement hub coming and will try to keep the progress report on this thread. I can't start the engine at the moment with Wheel Horse rear end on stands. I tried, but the pull start rocks the entire setup. I'll get a video when the hubs come in. It'll be great be able to get a test drive in. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vurge 158 #40 Posted July 6, 2020 Progress report: New hubs arrived and installed. Decided to do a repaint while it's apart for repairs. Body and frame on stands for a repaint. Hood and fenders will take more work. Someone just painted over a a prior poor paint job.... Makes it that much harder. I'm not going for a restoration, just something that's not so embarrassing that I have to start each conversation explaining the paint job wasn't my handiwork. Here's what the old paint looked like. The blue is between the original paint and a layer of spray paint. I'm trying to smooth everything out with a flap wheel. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,505 #41 Posted July 6, 2020 Nice to see it getting proper care! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 64,421 #42 Posted July 8, 2020 It’s hard to make a bad paint job over a bad paint job look good. Nice work doing it it the right way! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vurge 158 #43 Posted October 31, 2020 (edited) Making some progress here. It's slow going these days since a lot of my off time is now tied up helping the kids distance learning. The little tractor is a bit dusty at the moment but that's nothing an air hose and wipe down can't fix. I've relocated the S/G to the fuel tank location. It actually worked out well since I could bolt it to the tank brackets. I am a little concerned about the output though because I won't be spinning it very fast. The good news is that in this current location I can easily change the pulleys. In the lower position it was interfering with the belt and guard. Oh, and belt guard is done too. No pic of it yet. I'll bolt it on after the battery hold down is figured out. Throttle and choke cables went in without much trouble. Throttle was way too tight at first, but squeezing some oil into lining worked wonders. Edited October 31, 2020 by Vurge 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vurge 158 #44 Posted November 3, 2020 It's almost time to crank this engine for the first time! Battery is bolted down and replacement diode installed. Engine has oil and wiring is done all the way to the fuseblock. After lunch I'll put in a fuel filter and some gas. Fingers crossed. Brand new engine, unknown quality transmission, first time S/G installation (and it's a golf cart model to boot). Oh and a novice installation. Fire extinguisher will be on hand. 😂 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,505 #45 Posted November 3, 2020 38 minutes ago, Vurge said: It's almost time to crank this engine for the first time! Battery is bolted down and replacement diode installed. Engine has oil and wiring is done all the way to the fuseblock. After lunch I'll put in a fuel filter and some gas. Fingers crossed. Brand new engine, unknown quality transmission, first time S/G installation (and it's a golf cart model to boot). Oh and a novice installation. Fire extinguisher will be on hand. 😂 Just make sure you double check all your triple checks and then triple check your double checks and also, stand back. Way way back...... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 64,421 #46 Posted November 4, 2020 18 hours ago, Vurge said: It's almost time to crank this engine for the first time! Battery is bolted down and replacement diode installed. Engine has oil and wiring is done all the way to the fuseblock. After lunch I'll put in a fuel filter and some gas. Fingers crossed. Brand new engine, unknown quality transmission, first time S/G installation (and it's a golf cart model to boot). Oh and a novice installation. Fire extinguisher will be on hand. 😂 sounds like my life story! Watch out I’mma gonna try something real quick! @PeacemakerJack “What could possibly go wrong?” 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 70,505 #47 Posted November 4, 2020 50 minutes ago, pullstart said: What CAN'T possibly go wrong? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vurge 158 #48 Posted November 4, 2020 🥁 🥁 🥁 Thank all of you for your input on this project. Couldn't have done it without that support. Had to disconnect and rewire the kill wire on the keyswitch to get it started. All that cranking before that though made me realize I really love the S part of the S/G. It's so smooth. 😂 And it works! The little Predator is pretty darn quiet on idle but still loud when revved up. I rotated the muffler 120 degrees to get the exhaust to vent out the side and that may contribute to noise. The plan is to swap that out for a bigger unit anyway. Problems that need to be addressed from major to minor: 1. S/G is barely charging. I think it's because I didn't account for the 0.5 voltage drop across the charging diode. I will need to change the pulley ratio. This probably means getting rid of the stacked pulley and putting in two separate ones on the engine. 2. With the current 3.5" engine pulley, this new belt the Wheel Horse I have to be real careful taking off or else it'll either stall or pop a wheelie in 3rd gear. I'm going to see if the belt breaks in. Maybe I shouldn't have abandoned the foot throttle idea.... 3. I need to redo the choke cable. Right now it's pull to run and push for choke. It's a little counter intuitive. Unfortunately this means a new cable. 4. The seat pan springs don't seem to contribute anything to the ride. Sure is a rough ride. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 64,421 #49 Posted November 4, 2020 The S/G pulley is usually about 1/3rd of the flywheel pulley, so I understand that it’s not charging quite enough. At W.O.T. You are likely barely spinning the Genny as far as it’s charging zone goes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 64,421 #50 Posted November 4, 2020 I like your belt guard! Simple and easy for inspection! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites