417Horse 40 #1 Posted May 18, 2020 I have a model 417-8 that has a leaking axle seal. I've got the WH parts & service manual that lists the seals for the 1-1/8" axle that the 400 series has, but the service section of the manual doesn't cover replacing seals, bearings, etc. Could anyone give me a link to a utube video that would show seal/bearing replacement for my model? Also, while I'm replacing the seals and/or bearings, how much more is involved to replace the center case gasket. I don't see any seepage from the center, though. - Thanks 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldlineman 1,482 #2 Posted May 18, 2020 I believe you can replace the seal from the outside without splitting the trany. You will have to get the wheel hub off which can be a real job in itself, but if seal is leaking then may not be so bad with oil bathing the axle and hub connection. If there is side or up and down play in the axle, then you will have to split the case too replace the bearing. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #3 Posted May 18, 2020 Search the site for hub removal. That can be a uuuhhhhhh..... challenging. Patience is HUGE when removing hubs. The RIGHT PULLER is also a big thing. The seal can be removed from the outside just fine. New parts can be had from a decent local parts store or Better yet get them from Wheelhorse parts and more. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,863 #4 Posted May 18, 2020 Axle seal is SKF 11050. You can use a number of tools to dig out the 1/8" thick seal. I use a cater pin puller, but a small screwdriver will work. Carter pin puller is bottom center in picture. This will work without dropping or opening the trans. If you have any up/down or side to side play, you have a bad bearing, and will have to open your trans. You should have very little to no play in the axle. Don't count in and out...should be about 1/8" and has nothing to do with a bad bearing. File any burrs on the end of the axle and where the wood ruff key goes. A little tape on the end of the axle and over the key slot will keep; you from ripping your new seal when you slide it on. I have videos in a thread in the Reference Section/ Transmissions. Look for the #5091 transmission. You can use 1/2" drive sockets and an extension or a good punch to remove a bad bearing. That works to replace one also. The gasket is TORO #3912 for about $6. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
417Horse 40 #5 Posted May 19, 2020 Thanks, guys. Hopefully, the bearings are in good shape. It's only got 1440 hours. Bought it new in mid-'86. I'll let you know how things go. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
417Horse 40 #6 Posted May 19, 2020 I picked up the axle seal today, but due to the weather, I haven't dug into it yet. The seal, Toro part# 100443, has a flat side and a recessed (2-edged) side. Which side goes against the needle bearings? It might be obvious once I pull the wheel hub, but I want to make sure before I get to that point. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #7 Posted May 19, 2020 4 minutes ago, 417Horse said: I picked up the axle seal today, but due to the weather, I haven't dug into it yet. The seal, Toro part# 100443, has a flat side and a recessed (2-edged) side. Which side goes against the needle bearings? It might be obvious once I pull the wheel hub, but I want to make sure before I get to that point. Should be flat side out. What will you be using to pull the hub? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
417Horse 40 #8 Posted May 19, 2020 Okay, thanks. Here's the puller I've got. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #9 Posted May 19, 2020 3 minutes ago, 417Horse said: Okay, thanks. Here's the puller I've got. That's a perfectly decent quality puller and it would work really well on a steel gear but be advised you have a cast-iron hub and they are well known to be brittle and STUCK. It would be a great investment in time and money to call Lincoln at A- Z and have him send you a bad hub to use as you're pulling mechanism. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
417Horse 40 #10 Posted May 19, 2020 Aha! I'm finally understanding the setup that stevasaurus was showing with the hex bolt and nut thru the center of the "bad" hub - using the nut to bear down on the washers while the smaller bolts pull equally thru each hole of the hub being removed. I'll see if I can find one locally. I'll let you know how it turns out. I appreciate your help! David K. Rockville, VA 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #11 Posted May 19, 2020 No worries David. That's what we're here for. I can take a pic of mine if it'll help... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
417Horse 40 #12 Posted May 29, 2020 Okay, I found a hub locally on Craigslist, so here's my setup below. I used 3/8" all-thread which worked great and used back to back nuts on the hub being pulled. I got the 3/4" x 7" hexhead bolt, washers, and nut off the shelf at Home Depot. I have a 1-1/8" axle and I used a piece of 3/4" schedule 40 electrical pvc to sleeve the pulling hub and a shorter piece to place over the end of the bolt to keep it centered where it butts the end of the axle. The pvc was the perfect size for the 1-1/8" axle. I had small set of calipers, so I used it as a feeler gauge to set the hub surfaces parallel with each other. Although I didn't have any problem removing my hub, you could remove both wheel set screws and spray some wd40 in the holes. As for removing the woodruff key on the axle, that turned out to be the hardest part of the whole job. I used an 1-1/4" Dremel 426 cutting wheel and did a plunge cut lengthwise in the key, splitting it in half. Hope this helps for anyone having to replace the axle seal or anything further. 1 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
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