LED Shop Lights at a bargain price

[953 nut 55,229]

Had an old four foot fluorescent shop light that needed new tubes. While I was out doing the weekly Corona Virus shopping spree this morning I found a pair of LED direct replacement tubes for $ 8.88 that are super bright.                          I will be getting more for sure.

[peter lena 8,627]

picked up a pair of 48" led lights at wally, complete lights 12 $, each, was an overstock leftover , they really light up my sheds too, pete

[ZXT 2,401]

Keep an eye out for the retrofit versions of them too. You have to wire around the ballast (which is a piece of cake), which makes fixtures with bad ballasts useful again. Saves electricity not having to run them as well. This is what we typically do for customers when changing out fluorescent bulbs for LED.

[chip61 658]

8 hours ago, ZXT said:

Keep an eye out for the retrofit versions of them too. You have to wire around the ballast (which is a piece of cake), which makes fixtures with bad ballasts useful again. Saves electricity not having to run them as well. This is what we typically do for customers when changing out fluorescent bulbs for LED.

 

Now I'm curious-what do I need to do to retrofit for led bulbs on old 48" lamps?? I have 4 in my dad's shed that we installed 40 years ago. They are getting a little dim!!

 

Thanks

[clueless 2,993]

13 minutes ago, chip61 said:

 

Now I'm curious-what do I need to do to retrofit for led bulbs on old 48" lamps?? I have 4 in my dad's shed that we installed 40 years ago. They are getting a little dim!!

 

Thanks

How to bypass the ballast, a diagram or pictures would be nice, I'm a slow reader .

[SPINJIM 1,981]

Most of the LED replacement tubes don't require any rewiring around the ballast.  Just remove the old florescent tube, and put in the LED.   Don't have to take down the fixture, disassemble, and reassemble the whole thing.  I usually replace them both in a two-tube fixture.  Don't know if you have to; just sounds logical.

   Jim

[Racinbob 11,081]

9 hours ago, ZXT said:

Keep an eye out for the retrofit versions of them too. You have to wire around the ballast (which is a piece of cake), which makes fixtures with bad ballasts useful again. Saves electricity not having to run them as well. This is what we typically do for customers when changing out fluorescent bulbs for LED.

 

1 hour ago, chip61 said:

 

Now I'm curious-what do I need to do to retrofit for led bulbs on old 48" lamps?? I have 4 in my dad's shed that we installed 40 years ago. They are getting a little dim!!

 

Thanks

 

1 hour ago, clueless said:

How to bypass the ballast, a diagram or pictures would be nice, I'm a slow reader .

 

No rewiring needed. Simply remove the fluorescent tubes and replace with the LED's. 

There may be something out there that needs more but I've never seen them. 

[Racinbob 11,081]

I partially retract my post, 

I was curious so I did a search. By golly they do make them that require rewiring. My suggesting would be to simply get the style that's a direct replacement. They are readily available. 

[WHX?? 48,815]

1 hour ago, chip61 said:

 

Now I'm curious-what do I need to do to retrofit for led bulbs on old 48" lamps?? I have 4 in my dad's shed that we installed 40 years ago. They are getting a little dim!!

 

Thanks

You might need to replace the "tombstones" , the bulb holders. Older tubes will be T-12 you might need to swap them out with T-8's. 

I always take out the ballasts as they are nothing but power robbing heat sinks. All you need to do is wire 120vac direct to each end of the retrofit bulb. 

 

Jungle sites have boat loads of stuff to convert and a good place to research. I did my whole office, shop and warehouse right off Amazon. Couple of bad ones out of box but they quickly sent me replacements no questions asked. 

Edited May 12, 2020 by WHX24

[Racinbob 11,081]

My, how things have changed since I retired. 

I just got edjumekated on the retrofit this morning. When I first saw the LED replacements I assumed they used the ballast as a driver. They state to check for ballast compatibility. Some state to bypass the ballast. I'm gonna be experimenting this morning. 

[WHX?? 48,815]

Just get the direct wires Bob and toss the ballasts. … hot and neutral both ends and good to go. Polarity doesn't matter. 

This stuff changes with the wind and everyday they come up with a new mousetrap. Used to be the ballast was required but that's history now. 

Did half my shop at home just to see how well they hold up. So far so good. Only problem was the bulbs created RFI both here and home so no more shop radio.  Alexa plays it all now. 

Edited May 12, 2020 by WHX24

[chip61 658]

Good info-thanks!!!

[953 nut 55,229]

1 hour ago, WHX24 said:

Older tubes will be T-12 you might need to swap them out with T-8's.

That is what attracted me to the ones at WallyWorld, compatible with T-12 and the fixture stays where it is.

1 hour ago, Racinbob said:

My, how things have changed since I retired. 

I just got edjumekated on the retrofit this morning. When I first saw the LED replacements I assumed they used the ballast as a driver. They state to check for ballast compatibility. Some state to bypass the ballast. I'm gonna be experimenting this morning. 

              I will have to check into that idea.                                  Jim,   @WHX24  been out of the electrical trade a few decades myself

[BOB ELLISON 2,981]

I redid mine about 5 years ago and at that time the ones that didn't need a ballast were very expensive.  On the very old 4 foot ballast type light my ballast type did not work so i did my research and had to replace the ballast with a newer one that would work with new LEDs. 

It was like $45.00 for a new 4 foot led  double bulb fixture with bulbs. I picked up a 12 pack of 4 foot  LED bulbs for $29.00 and the new ballasts were $14.99 I did 6 fixtures for about $20.00 each. Best thing I ever did the lighting in my garage is great.  And as @Racinbob said not all  ballasts will work.

 

[Racinbob 11,081]

1 hour ago, WHX24 said:

Just get the direct wires Bob and toss the ballasts. … hot and neutral both ends and good to go. Polarity doesn't matter. 

This stuff changes with the wind and everyday they come up with a new mousetrap. Used to be the ballast was required but that's history now. 

Did half my shop at home just to see how well they hold up. So far so good. Only problem was the bulbs created RFI both here and home so no more shop radio.  Alexa plays it all now. 

Thanks Jim. I discovered that with just a few minutes searching. Too bad I didn't do the search beforehand 

Seems to me that something should have been in the instructions about that. But then again, I seldom read instructions. 

[clueless 2,993]

I've got 8 8ft/4bulb that are the old ballast fixtures in the shop, I've been replacing the bulbs with the new LED bulbs as the old bulbs start to go. The new LED bulbs work great my only problem is the ballast in one of the fixtures is shot and another is going. I want to disconnect the ballast in them as they start to go but not sure exactly how to do it on these 4 bulb fixtures, any help would appreciated, remember this is clueless, electrical ain't my strong point .

[WHX?? 48,815]

1 hour ago, Racinbob said:

I seldom read instructions.

Tell Nancy you don't instructions you got pictures! 

[Racinbob 11,081]

Here some interesting information I found. 

 

Replacing Fluorescents with LEDs

When you decide to replace your fluorescent tubes with tubular LED lamps (or TLEDs), you have three basic options. You can keep the existing ballast and use ballast-compatible Type A LEDs for installation, or you can opt for ballast-bypass Type B LEDs, which don’t use a ballast and have their own internal driver. The third option, Type C, uses no ballast, like Type B, but has an external driver.
 

Type A: Ballast-Compatible / Direct-Fit

Ballast-compatible LEDs give you instant, plug-and-play results. You just remove the old fluorescent tube, plug in your new LED tube, and flip the switch. There’s no need to remove the old ballast. It’s a super easy installation with reduced up-front labor costs.

Although convenient, this option has a couple of disadvantages over the long term. Type A ballast-compatible LEDs tend to be more expensive than their bypass counterparts. Also, although they are more energy-efficient than fluorescents, they are not as energy-efficient as ballast-bypass LEDs. Expect to save about 20 percent in energy usage with ballast-compatible LEDs, compared to fluorescents. Not every Type A LED tube is compatible with every make and model of ballast. You’ll need to verify which ballast you have and whether or not it is compatible with the Type A LED you’re looking at. Dimming control is limited to the capability of the ballast.

The last big drawback to ballast-compatible LED tubes is the fact that that the old ballast is still in operation and is still a point of failure. So even if the LED tubes are working fine, when the ballast fails over time, the LED tubes will go dark and you will still have to get back up into the fixture and replace it.
 

Type B: Ballast-Bypass

Type B ballast-bypass LED tubes require the removal of the old fluorescent ballast. These tubes have their own internal driver and run directly off line voltage. The lamp sockets, or tombstones, may also require rewiring. There is additional labor involved in the initial installation versus ballast-compatible LEDs, but the end result is a much more reliable and longer-lasting assembly as the old ballast is eliminated from the circuit. Limited dimming capabilities are available.

Although Type B ballast-bypass LEDs tend to be a little more expensive than ballast-compatible LEDs, they can save you an additional 20 percent in energy usage (for a total of about 40% over fluorescent tubes). That means they will pay for themselves in the long run.
 

Type C: External Driver

Like Type B LEDs, Type Cs will also require removal of the existing tube and ballast, and some rewiring. But in addition, the Type C will also necessitate an external remote driver and connecting it to the sockets. Opting for these LEDs with external drivers will entail some extra labor and expense, but it will pay off with even better efficiency and higher performance. These LEDs provide the best dimming and controlling options too.
 

Installation

Although they provide better efficiency, Type B and Type C LED lamps require a little more installation time and know-how. Removing or bypassing the old ballast will require some rewiring of your light fixture. Although this can be done with ordinary household tools and is not particularly difficult, you should consult with a qualified electrician if you are not handy or knowledgeable about electricity, wiring, and lighting.

Also, if you are thinking about taking this on as a DIY project, you should make sure to wear eye protection to protect your eyes in case the fluorescent tube shatters during removal. And, of course, you should always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions before retrofitting your LED linear lamps.

IMPORTANT: Always refer to the manufacturer’s installation instructions prior to retrofitting your LED linear lamps

[WHX?? 48,815]

4 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

Type B and Type C LED lamps require a little more installation time and know-how and Captain Morgan's. I addition you have to ask @Achto over to help then the Captain really takes a beating and nothing gets done. 

[ZXT 2,401]

12 hours ago, Racinbob said:

I partially retract my post, 

I was curious so I did a search. By golly they do make them that require rewiring. My suggesting would be to simply get the style that's a direct replacement. They are readily available. 

If feasible, it is better to get rid of the ballast. On top of just being plain inefficient, they create a good amount of heat. You also don't ever have to worry about a ballast ever going out.

 

12 hours ago, WHX24 said:

Just get the direct wires Bob and toss the ballasts. … hot and neutral both ends and good to go. Polarity doesn't matter. 

This stuff changes with the wind and everyday they come up with a new mousetrap. Used to be the ballast was required but that's history now. 

Did half my shop at home just to see how well they hold up. So far so good. Only problem was the bulbs created RFI both here and home so no more shop radio.  Alexa plays it all now. 

10 hours ago, WHX24 said:

Tell Nancy you don't instructions you got pictures! 

Jim, all that I've ever installed have wired from one end. Obviously there are exceptions depending on the fixture.

 

This photo might be of use to some people. No connection is made on the left side of the bottom picture in the illustration. One wire from each of the tombstones on the opposite end makes up to the neutral (white) , and the remaining two make up to the hot (Typically black or red). 

 

At home it might not be much of an issue, but before you go retrofitting in somewhere such as a commercial building, make sure that it is 120v and not 277v!

[Pullstart 62,882]

My rope lighting malfunctioned in the back barn.  It worked great but wasn’t the brightest.  I bought two of these 10 packs for $89.99/box and so far, the 6 I have installed are amazing!

 

Oh look, I found some tractors I forgot I had!    just kidding, I wouldn’t forget about them!

 

 

[c-series don 8,707]

@Pullstart I’m not sure if you’re aware of this Kevin but you have a lot of “stuff” !! My brother says to me that I’m suffering from TMS, Too Much Stuff! 

[Pullstart 62,882]

3 minutes ago, c-series don said:

@Pullstart I’m not sure if you’re aware of this Kevin but you have a lot of “stuff” !! My brother says to me that I’m suffering from TMS, Too Much Stuff! 

HEY NOW…  My bills are paid and all my “stuff” is paid for too   

 

[SylvanLakeWH 25,560]

Mrs P's game plan:

 

Kevin plans plow day; Kevin cleans sheds to prepare; Kevin discovers many wonderous 's and bits and pieces that visiting plow dogs may ... leaving sheds cleaner with more room for another Senior...

 

Mrs P's smart girl...

 

[Pullstart 62,882]

I’m so satisfied with these 10, I see  no reason to put 10 more up!

 

I also found the cause of the issue with the rope lights, so they are putting out some lumens again too!  It has inspired me to move some tractors and “stuff” around to get ready for making room inside for the camper, Norman and Ole’ Smoky the ‘69 C10 for the winter.