Remove Welded Hubs

[pfrederi 17,742]

If the spring slips back in with out much struggle (Meaning it is weak) i would think about a replacement.

[71_Bronco 1,072]

25 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

If the spring slips back in with out much struggle (Meaning it is weak) i would think about a replacement.

 

The spring inside the pinion gears was tight when pulling it all apart. It seems strong to me. I just wasnt sure if the shiny grooves in the spring would be an issue.

 

Thanks all for the input. When I got the transmission, there was no shift boot on it, and no shifter handle in it. The inside was dry and the drain plug was removed.

 

The inside of the cases do have some surface rust. That was going to be another issue I was going to ask about, if I should try to clean it up, or just leave it as is if there is no big loose flakes.

 

Stay tuned, more to come.

[stevasaurus 22,769]

Take a wire wheel to clean up rust.  Use electrolysis if rust is bad enough.

[71_Bronco 1,072]

Not a huge update, but just ordered these off ePay for $49 shipped. Confirmed all the measurements prior to ordering.

 

[stevasaurus 22,769]

Those look pretty nice.    Save those other axles, someone will need them.  

[71_Bronco 1,072]

5 hours ago, stevasaurus said:

Those look pretty nice.    Save those other axles, someone will need them.  

 

Definitely will. Other than the ugly gobs of weld on the end, they are in excellent shape, keys are perfect and the teeth look new.

 

Is there anything I should do to the axles when they come in? Maybe a very light polish? I obviously don't want to go too aggressive and make them under-sized and have sealing issues, but at the same time, don't want any rough edges / burrs when I pass them through the seals.

[stevasaurus 22,769]

I would just steel wool them, use a file to get rid of any burrs on the end or around the key way.  Use masking tape over the end and keyway when placing the new seal.  

[71_Bronco 1,072]

Got the axles in, everything looks great. My old hubs slip over nicely without play, and everything looks good. Cleaned them up with some steel wool and a file.

 

Looked into new pinion gears. Found some new ones on ePay, but they are $30+ each (and I need 10....). A-Z has them for $10 each, but are used ones.

 

I may just reuse my old ones and arrange them so the little wear spots dont match up to eachother (basically reversed from the picture I posted before).

 

With the differential sorted out, I can start looking into the case, bearings and the other gears. Figured I'd take it one piece at a time.

 

Also, I ordered another set of studs for these hubs so I dont have to pull the set off my 3-speed.

Edited May 31, 2020 by 71_Bronco

[71_Bronco 1,072]

Sorry for the delayed update, things have been crazy at home.

 

Got the differential rebuilt, and cleaned up the gears inside. All the bearings are in really good shape (at least as far as I can see), and none of the pins were missing.

 

Need to get a new plug for the drain, and a new shift boot, then it will be ready to fill and bolt in. Got some new keys from the local hardware store as well.

 

I also cleaned up the hubs and have some square-head grub screws on order.

 

Oh, and I need to put in the new brake band (got from a fellow member) and need to put in the wheel stud set (also from a fellow member here).

[71_Bronco 1,072]

Got to work on this today a bit. Got it all bolted together with a new gasket. Didnt change the seals yet, but have a spare set in case any leak.

 

Got the hubs back on, cleaned up the brake drum and put it in, and put on the new pulley. Just need to swap over the hitch and brake band and it will be ready to go.

 

I do have one small issue. I popped out some kind of plug on the brake side. It looks like it lines up with the input shaft. I may have popped it out when I was tapping the new input pulley on.

 

Should I just tap it back in? Use a little loc-tite?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,069]

That looks like the back end of a blind needle bearing. Does look like it broke off?

 

Garry

[71_Bronco 1,072]

The plug looks like its plastic. Inside the casting is the metal bearing.

 

I tapped on the closed end of the bearing (in the block) and it slid in just a tiny bit. Once I tapped it in, the input shaft had less in-and-out play. I think when I tapped on the input pulley, it pushed the bearing out slightly and that pushed out the plastic cap.

 

Once I pushed the bearing in slightly, I pushed in the plastic cap and now it's good as new.

[71_Bronco 1,072]

Oh, I did have one other slight issue. I had to get a new drain plug. However, the new plug only goes in about half way, the stops. Its sticking out about 3/16".

 

The new one is zinc plated (for rust protection), so I'm wondering if the extra build up on the tapered threads is making it lock up sooner and not let it screw in as deep.

 

I'm gonna try getting a plain steel one and see if that helps.

[lynnmor 7,318]

The drain plug is a tapered pipe thread, you don't want to force it in.  I doubt that the plating has much effect on the dimensions.  I would run a pipe tap in till it just starts to cut so that you have the threads clean and correct.