Rust converter chemical on an engine block, yay or nay?

[ebinmaine 70,789]

Sometime in the next few weeks I'm going to be faced with cleaning up the k582 that sat in a moist metal shed for some over 20 years.

I've already had the carburetor off to rebuild it and I will remove that again. Probably all the external stuff like the sheet metal, starter, coil, not sure what else...

 

So the main question is... How do we feel about using something like Naval Jelly or a similar product to convert the existing thick layer of rust on the cast iron block, fins, and intake manifold into a black oxide?

I was going to keep this engine black anyway. At least on all the casting stuff.

 

 

Recommendations? Experiences? Good or bad idea? What say you, Redsquare gurus?

 

[953 nut 57,969]

3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Naval Jelly or a similar product to convert the existing thick layer of rust on the cast iron block, fins, and intake manifold into a black oxide?

I wouldn't do it. Any coating on the cooling fins will reduce the heat transfer from the engine to the air. Use a needle scaler followed by a wire brush then a light coat of paint.

[JAinVA 4,629]

Eric,

   I have used some rust converters on some projects but I don't think i would use any on an engine block.I use an an E tank for most of my projects.This method is what a lot of museums use and does not remove any sound metal.Washing soda can be used as an electrolyte but I use lye drain cleaner and it removes paint as well as rust.With a 12 volt battery charger,water and some scrap metal its a cheap and amazing process.This process works well on cast iron and steel including sheet metal but I don't think lye is safe on aluminum.To clean aluminum i would use a washing soda solution.

Edited May 9, 2020 by JAinVA

[ebinmaine 70,789]

7 hours ago, JAinVA said:

an E tank

This particular engine is still assembled so I can't dip it.

 

I've thought about setting up an electrolysis system to do the wheels and other things.

 

[tom2p 2,394]

 

Evapo-Rust might be an option 

 

it's relatively safe :  non-toxic and non-corrosive - although the odor is not the most pleasant   lol

 

maybe you could place shop rags dipped in Evapo-Rust on the block ?

 

Evapo-Rust is also available in gel form and can be brushed on - but my limited experience with the gel is not as positive as the liquid 

 

[stevasaurus 23,072]

Caution using the electrolysis process.

   1. the process is set up to use Washing Soda.  The residual liquid using this is non-toxic and can be dumped around your shrubs.

   2.  using lye can make the residual liquid toxic, and should be disposed of properly.

   3.  Supposedly, this process is for Ferris metals only.  Using aluminum, copper, etc yields a toxic residual liquid.

   4.  Use this process only in an open, well ventilated area.  The bubbles are very flammable hydrogen gas.

 

Check out articles on Google that explain the do's and don'ts.  Be safe.