CMarrero 7 #1 Posted May 3, 2020 Hi everyone, new member here, I introduced myself in that section. A lot of work to do on my Raider, but first thing I am trying to tackle is my wiring. It is very chewed up from sitting in a shed, and a lot of the wires are broken from age. I am mechanically inclined, but electrical is a very weak spot for me. I found the original wiring diagram in the owners manual, but it is very blurry and hard to read. I found the nice color-coded diagram here on this site, but want to make sure it is the one I am supposed to be using. Tractor is 1972 Raider 14 with the Kohler K321. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,032 #2 Posted May 3, 2020 No - that one is for magneto ignition. You should have battery ignition (coil powered by the battery) and a 4-position key switch but that is not necessary. The "M" terminal on the switch needs to be an "I" (eye) terminal. Here is a page on the proper switch so you have it and how it works. The lower right schematic is correct for battery ignition but a poor copy. Will look for a better one. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CMarrero 7 #3 Posted May 3, 2020 awesome, thank you! Yes, the bottom schematics are what I took from the Raider 14 Owner's Manual, but like you said very hard to read. Was hoping to find the nice bright color-coded version of what I need. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,074 #4 Posted May 3, 2020 The electrical diagrams I posted are primarily intended to show how the various components in the wiring work together. The one posted below uses the 103 990 key switch and although it isn't a Raider 14 diagram it would do the trick for your tractor. If you have an electric clutch you would want to add another wire and 15 amp fuse from the "A" terminal of the ignition switch for it. With the exception of the battery cables, all of the wiring can be done in 14 gauge or 16 gauge depending on what you have on hand. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,032 #5 Posted May 3, 2020 Did find a better one with the Charger model at the time but still not good so made a better one. Not much color to it. Have not done the lights yet. If you want to download a pdf version it is here. Click on the picture Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CMarrero 7 #6 Posted May 4, 2020 OMG YES! THANK YOU GUYS! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CMarrero 7 #7 Posted May 4, 2020 1 hour ago, 953 nut said: If you have an electric clutch you would want to add another wire and 15 amp fuse from the "A" terminal of the ignition switch for it. Based on this picture of my dash, it does not look like I have the electric clutch..unless it was removed at some point, it is hard to tell. What made the clutch "electric'? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CMarrero 7 #8 Posted May 4, 2020 1 hour ago, gwest_ca said: I have a splice on there that is just hanging, and a guy on FB mentioned that it would be to bypass the Clutch Safety Switch.. I assume that is what you have there between the S terminal and the solenoid. Was that the switch that would not let the engine turn over if the brake pedal was not depressed? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,032 #9 Posted May 4, 2020 That wire appears to go to the battery side of the solenoid so it is alive all the time. Be careful with it. Good way to start a fire because it is not fused. The safety switch would go in the hole behind the pedal. Looks like the two switch wires are hanging there. On a model with gear transmission the switch would be called a clutch pedal switch. The same switch for a hydro model mounted elsewhere would be a neutral switch. Wheel Horse settled on Safety Switch so the same drawings could be used for both models. The electric pto clutches have an electromagnet that pulls in a clutch plate to engage the pto. This is what most tractors today have. You have a manual pto clutch as the egagement handle can be seen to the right of the dash panel. Garry 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CMarrero 7 #10 Posted May 4, 2020 Anyone know if there is a way to disconnect wiring for headlights so I can remove hood? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,032 #11 Posted May 4, 2020 Yes. A pair of sidecutters. You can get a 2-wire connector that is used for trailer wiring. They look like the common 4-wire connector but just 2 wires. One is male and the other female so you can add that and when disconnected the hot side is protected from shorts. Garry 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CMarrero 7 #12 Posted May 10, 2020 Anyone know where I can get these black plastic connectors? Already tried Lowes and Rural King so far and didn't see any. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,032 #13 Posted May 16, 2020 Is there just one wire in each connector or a single plastic connector with more than one wire? They make all combination of configurations so they are rather specific. Some are still available from Toro but you would need to use an illustrated parts list to determine the part number. They can also be removed from the terminal and reused once you know how to do it. Click on the picture. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
