Jeff-C175 7,202 #2676 Posted July 26, 2021 10 hours ago, Stormin said: sealing coat of PVA glue Tell me a bit more about that please Norman. The PVA glue in particular. I've used concrete bonding 'glue' which I believe is in fact a PVA glue. It smells just like "Elmer's" glue. I mix in some portland cement and thin to a slurry with water. Paint it on with a mason's brush then topcoat with an exterior water based primer such as Zinnser 123 and a final coat of good masonry paint. This lasts longer than anything else I've tried. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #2677 Posted July 26, 2021 Spent a good portion of the day at the router table cutting some mouldings for some windows. I figured it was about time I finished a project I started longer ago than I care to admit! (ok, how about back in the late 1900s?) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 9,981 #2678 Posted July 26, 2021 1 hour ago, Jeff-C175 said: Tell me a bit more about that please Norman. The PVA glue in particular. It's a white, thickish glue, Jeff. For sealing porous surfaces, you dilute 1 part glue to 5 parts water. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 9,981 #2679 Posted July 26, 2021 We've got rain forecast for all week from tomorrow, so I thought I'd better get cracking and get that wall painted. First coat went on this morning. After lunch decided to do some mowing before the grass shoots up with the rain. Lawn, green and verges. With the mowing finished I then put the second coat on the wall. Looks ok even if I do say mesel'. I'd just sat down on the decking with a cold drink, when neighbours son asked if I could go round with a tractor and trailer to haul away some reeds. He's been de-reeding the pond by his mothers next door. Got that done and now that's my lot for the day. Dinner and after a well deserved bevy. 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #2680 Posted July 26, 2021 1 hour ago, Stormin said: Looks ok MORE than OK ! Looks BEEEYOOTEEFULL! 11 hours ago, Stormin said: white, thickish glue I was curious if it's one of the brands known here on this side of the pond? It apparently is the same substance that is in the concrete bonding agent. As I said, it smells exactly the same! I have been thinking recently about thinning some "Titebond III" which is WATERPROOF with some water and trying that as a 'sizing' for exterior but it is much more expensive than the regular concrete bonder . PLUS, it does NOT dry opaque, it turns quite brown after drying. The back wall of my garage has never been finished in any way, just plain block and nobody can see it so it is a perfect place for some testing! Before the summer is out I may give it a test. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 9,981 #2681 Posted July 26, 2021 Checked the container today, Jeff. FYI It's marketed by Bostick. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #2682 Posted July 26, 2021 8 minutes ago, Stormin said: Checked the container today, Jeff. FYI It's marketed by Bostick. This one? While many of their products are available on our side, it appears that this one is not. Wonder why not? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,987 #2683 Posted July 26, 2021 (edited) 19 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: This one? While many of their products are available on our side, it appears that this one is not. Wonder why not? Although that particular Brand or packaging may not be available here, what we have here is the same. All PVA glues are based on Aliphatic Resin. there are some chemical differences depending on what their main purpose is for but they only really make a difference in the setting /curing time and how much they are water resistant. The most known form to most is regular "Carpenter Glue". One can change the properties of aliphatic resins by adding small portions of something like vinegar to increase setting time. They can also be used to coat items as a sizing mixture like in veneering. Once dried to the touch but not cured it can be reactivated by heat. I use it in that manner to veneer complex shapes. Heat is applied and it will instantly bond almost like a contact cement but reversible. Edited July 26, 2021 by formariz 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #2684 Posted July 26, 2021 6 minutes ago, formariz said: Heat is applied and it will instantly bond Excellent tip! Thank you! Do you happen to know if the Titebond III (the one they claim is waterproof) is also a PVA? I wonder how they were able to waterproof it? (I've tested it, it IS waterproof once fully cured!) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,987 #2687 Posted July 26, 2021 Yes they are all PVAs regardless of brand. Regardless of claims Titebond III is a great water “resistant” glue but it is NOT water proof. Only Resorcinol can claim that. It is fully submergible even in salt water. The difference in the water resistant glue compared to the normal glue as far as aliphatic resins go is the amount of water it contains after the manufacturing process. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,987 #2688 Posted July 26, 2021 25 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: Excellent tip! Thank you! You are welcome. It takes a bit of practice to determine how long one lets it sit. It’s something that one can only learn by doing it over and over. Once that is mastered it is an invaluable thing to know when gluing veneers or very thin wood without clamping. However unlike hide glue it is not reversible once cured. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,987 #2689 Posted July 26, 2021 @AMC RULES Big kid playing with the big Tonka Toys. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #2690 Posted July 26, 2021 25 minutes ago, formariz said: Regardless of claims Titebond III is a great water “resistant” glue but it is NOT water proof I glued up a couple pieces of scrap pine and put them in a bucket weighted down with a brick for a month or so. They hardly floated they were so waterlogged. I was unable to get the glue joint to fail. I DID get it to 'part' but it took a lot of force and mostly it was the wood along the glue joint that gave way. BIG splinters from each side stuck to the other side. That was my un-scientific test. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,987 #2691 Posted July 26, 2021 3 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: I glued up a couple pieces of scrap pine and put them in a bucket weighted down with a brick for a month or so. They hardly floated they were so waterlogged. I was unable to get the glue joint to fail. I DID get it to 'part' but it took a lot of force and mostly it was the wood along the glue joint that gave way. BIG splinters from each side stuck to the other side. That was my un-scientific test. As I said it is a great water resistant glue. It will work for most tasks we all need it for . However for fully submerged applications it is not an accepted glue in most industries. For that Resorcinol is the accepted standard. I have a bit of experience dealing with wood in those applications . Although minimal the wood species also has a bit of influence on how well it does. Since I have had failures over time with the Titebond therefore for that application I always use Resorcinol. Substantially more expensive and one needs to be a bit of a scientist to mix it since that and timing is absolutely critical. Mixing is done by weight and volume. One however can be fully assured that it will never delaminate when fully submerged. For finish work however the glue line is inevitably very visible. Luckily most finish work will never be submerged or constantly wet so the Titebond is a preferable glue. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Newbie 7,069 #2692 Posted July 26, 2021 So my neighbor had a new door with side- lites installed... As many of you know, and I personally do too, the brick mold and trim around these door units are not made of anywhere near hardwood. Even with proper installation and protective covering(paint), the wood seems to be prone to premature rot and decay... The best way to combat this is to cover the brick mold, and as much of the exposed wood with trim metal as possible. So I have a metal break, and that's what we did... What do you think ? 4 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom2p 2,394 #2693 Posted July 26, 2021 nice job newbie ! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,846 #2694 Posted July 26, 2021 I also have a break, and have done a lot of trim work. Nice job. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,202 #2695 Posted July 27, 2021 1 hour ago, Horse Newbie said: prone to premature rot and decay... One of my upcoming projects is to repair mine. I've had good luck using composite decking boards and machining replacement pieces about a foot up from the bottom. It's usually just the bottom part. My jury is out on the cladding. I am conflicted on protecting from, or trapping in, the moisture. Next one I install is going to get multiple applications of some sort of wood preservative before installation. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom2p 2,394 #2696 Posted July 27, 2021 On 7/25/2021 at 12:54 PM, Wheel Horse 3D said: Last night finished repair and realignment of my trusty printer..now running orders again..looks like Ill still get them out on schedule, even though im usually a week ahead. Printed a couple dial indicator holders for the machines to simplify bed leveling Todays mission...pvc stand for Otter's bunny cage and litter box! use dial indicator - in addition to sensors or instead of sensors ? I believe my kid uses solenoid sensors 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheel Horse 3D 3,795 #2697 Posted July 27, 2021 1 hour ago, tom2p said: use dial indicator - in addition to sensors or instead of sensors ? I believe my kid uses solenoid sensors Some people use a "touch" sensor that maps and accounts for the print bed leveling.there are sensors currently equipped that automatically find zero, but from the zero point the entire bed must be level with the print head. I personally like to do things a little more manually. I find, like wheel horse tractors, simplicity is a key to reliability. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheel Horse 3D 3,795 #2698 Posted July 27, 2021 7 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said: Excellent tip! Thank you! Do you happen to know if the Titebond III (the one they claim is waterproof) is also a PVA? I wonder how they were able to waterproof it? (I've tested it, it IS waterproof once fully cured!) Titebond III is what I use for plywood boats. I always go over with epoxy afterward, but it works great. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,361 #2699 Posted July 27, 2021 10 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said: One of my upcoming projects is to repair mine. I'm sure you know that brickmold also comes in composite material like deck boards, even azek or similar products. May have to be ordered, but it is available. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,498 #2700 Posted July 27, 2021 5 minutes ago, rjg854 said: I'm sure you know that brickmold also comes in composite material like deck boards, even azek or similar products. May have to be ordered, but it is available. We sell the CertainTeed brand at our location in portland. Keep a bunch of vinylboard moldings in stock. As we do the work to our own home Trina is changing all the moldings and trim over to vinyl board. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites