ranger 1,760 #7501 Posted December 15 Is the tank metal, or glass fibre? I don’t think G.R.P is a recommended material for petrol/gas tanks where unleaded / ethanol fuel is used? I believe that in this country it’s banned for fuel tanks, due to the fuel degrading the polyester resin used. Perhaps epoxy resin, instead of polyester would be more resistant? I don’t know? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ML3 1,276 #7502 Posted December 15 3 hours ago, JCM said: I used a product 7 or 8 years ago on my IH Farmall Super A to remove rust from the fuel tank. If I can find what's left of it I will re post the info. It worked excellent , not sure how it would work on epoxy, maybe not so well. I have been around dirt bikes since I was 13 in 1971 . In 1978 a friend of mine bought a used Bultaco. I am not sure of the model or year but remember it was blue with white on the gas tank and the shifter was on the wrong side compared to the bikes made in Japan. Here's where the story gets a bit funny. When he asked if I wanted to try it out I jumped right on it and remember going across the yard hitting second gear and came upon a nice bunch of bushes about 7 feet tall. That's when the fun began. I went for the rear brake or what I thought was the rear brake and only by mistake put the gear pedal down one gear and went right into those bushes hard. We both were laughing out of control. When I opened your post I instantly looked at the gear pedal and started laughing all over again. Thanks for making my day @ML3 I purchased a tank sealing product that will work with fiberglass but I need to clean out the flaking epoxy. I really may resort to cutting bottom of tank open then patching it. That's a last resort. The tank is original finish so I want to preserve it at any cost. Finding another good tank will be next to impossible & if I did most likely it would have same issue. That's funny about the brake/gear mix up. Rear brake is on left, shifter on right. Kick start is on left so that makes it interesting to start. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ML3 1,276 #7503 Posted December 15 4 hours ago, SylvanLakeWH said: @ML3 cool old Bultaco!!! I'd be inclined to look at an aftermarket tank if I was going to run it... not sure with the old "stuff" in there it would get clean. Maybe some of those tank liner products would work? @Achto @WHX?? @Pullstart??? Haven't you guys used some? I purchased a tank liner kit that will work w/fiberglass. Hughs Bultaco in N.Y. recommended it & they have used it with success. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 63,097 #7504 Posted December 15 I have used KBS tank sealer and it’s awesome. As for busting the loose stuff up, you could do some 1/4-20 nuts, or even some BBs and a solution of liquid of your choice (kerosene, mineral spirits, gasoline even, etc). I’ve heard stories of people bungee strapping a tank to a rear tractor wheel and going for a cruise. You could wrap the tank in a couple old towels or the like to protect the outside. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ML3 1,276 #7505 Posted December 15 38 minutes ago, Pullstart said: I have used KBS tank sealer and it’s awesome. As for busting the loose stuff up, you could do some 1/4-20 nuts, or even some BBs and a solution of liquid of your choice (kerosene, mineral spirits, gasoline even, etc). I’ve heard stories of people bungee strapping a tank to a rear tractor wheel and going for a cruise. You could wrap the tank in a couple old towels or the like to protect the outside. KBS is what I bought. I've got some 2" drywall screws, 2" long wood bolts, some ball bearings, & a 5" section of chain. It's slowly working. I'm reluctant to use any chemicals/solvents. Here's what's inside tank....... 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JCM 9,407 #7506 Posted December 15 When you get caught up with your projects sometime @ML3 I started a thread in November 2020 under Non-Tractor related Dirt bikes/ ORV/ snowmobiles, 3 pages of it. You may have an interest. Take care 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,406 #7507 Posted December 15 Trina tore apart the mini counter that was beside the stove dividing the kitchen and dining area. It's now wide open there and she has an extra prep spot. The shoe rack is what's left of the lower shelving, reassembled. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
19richie66 17,522 #7508 Posted December 16 Trying to get into the Christmas spirit 7 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,467 #7509 Posted December 16 On 12/14/2024 at 5:08 PM, ML3 said: seal it with epoxy If you are trying to remove the epoxy, the only solvent I know is acetone, Not pleasant to use as it emits wicked fumes and eats lots of stuff besides epoxy, like the latex gloves I tried to use to protect my hands. I agree with @SylvanLakeWH that it’ll be dicey to get it completely clean down to a solid surface in there. I’d always wonder if any stray bits of epoxy were still in there ready to peel off. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,093 #7510 Posted Friday at 01:37 AM We've traveled to our winter quarters. Starting to get projects here restarted. Ordered some lumber today - delivery time is Friday sometime between 8am and 8pm. I got the old Worx battery powered walk behind mower out with its bagger attachment and picked up the leaves in the back yard. The batteries didn't take a full charge and the blade is out of balance. It has served me well for about 20 years, so I'm not sure how much more money to throw into it. The next job on the porch is some large, long trim pieces. Yes, I could get by with a circular saw, but a miter saw would be better. My miter saw is in Michigan.... While I was in the big box store ordering lumber, I took a look at miter saws. I took a liking to a 12" De Walt slider. I am going to be working with long pieces, so I probably need a stand as well. Lots of money. I wandered another aisle over and discovered a buy the saw, get the stand for free deal. Welllll, that changes things. Think I'll take advantage of that deal tomorrow. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,406 #7511 Posted Friday at 01:40 AM 2 minutes ago, 8ntruck said: miter saws. I took a liking to a 12" De Walt slider. We just bought a Dewalt DWS780. It's the cat's meeeyow. The bee's knees. Excellent. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 7,093 #7512 Posted Friday at 01:59 AM (edited) 18 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: We just bought a Dewalt DWS780. It's the cat's meeeyow. The bee's knees. Excellent. The one with a laser sight? Edited Friday at 01:59 AM by 8ntruck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,406 #7513 Posted Friday at 02:02 AM Just now, 8ntruck said: The one with a laser sight? No laser. It has a double shadow type effect. From HD site: "Essentially XPS technology uses an LED to project light down either side of the blade, creating a shadow of the blade in the work area. XPS casts a shadow from both sides of the blade onto the wood. It also lights up the area around the cut line." 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,827 #7514 Posted Friday at 12:07 PM 9 hours ago, ebinmaine said: No laser. It has a double shadow type effect. I find the laser that mounts against the blade to be very accurate. Just follow the pencil line with the light and you have an accurate cut. I wouldn't trust the ones that are mounted to the saw body. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,406 #7515 Posted Friday at 12:19 PM 3 minutes ago, 953 nut said: I find the laser that mounts against the blade to be very accurate. Just follow the pencil line with the light and you have an accurate cut. I wouldn't trust the ones that are mounted to the saw body. I can definitely see the logic in that. The setup on our saw is a light that shines from both sides of the blade so the steel circle creates a shadow that is not negotiable in position. You turn on the light but not the blade and bring it down close to the piece being sliced. The darker shadow under the blade IS the cut. But here's the thing.... We aren't trying to do Fine Cabinetry here. This system works great for us but I can't speak for any effort that would be less than a 16th of an inch or half a degree tilt or whatever. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites