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Mickwhitt

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ranger

Is the tank metal, or glass fibre? I don’t think G.R.P is a recommended material for petrol/gas tanks where unleaded / ethanol fuel is used? I believe that in this country it’s banned for fuel tanks, due to the fuel degrading the polyester resin used. Perhaps epoxy resin, instead of polyester would be more resistant? I don’t know?

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ML3
3 hours ago, JCM said:

I used a product 7 or 8 years ago on my IH Farmall Super A to remove rust from the fuel tank. If I can find what's left of it I will re post the info. It worked excellent , not sure how it would work on epoxy, maybe not so well. I have been around dirt bikes since I was 13 in 1971 .  In 1978 a friend of mine bought a used Bultaco. I am not sure of the model or year but remember it was blue with white on the gas tank and the shifter was on the wrong side compared to the bikes made in Japan. Here's where the story gets a bit funny. When he asked if I wanted to try it out I jumped right on it and remember going across the yard hitting second gear and came upon a nice bunch of bushes about 7 feet tall. That's when the fun began. I went for the rear brake or what I thought was the rear brake and only by mistake put the gear pedal down one gear and went right into those bushes hard. We both were laughing out of control. When I opened your post I instantly looked at the gear pedal and started laughing all over again.   Thanks for making my day @ML3

I purchased a tank sealing product that will work with fiberglass but I need to clean out the flaking epoxy. I really may resort to cutting bottom of tank open then patching it. That's a last resort. The tank is original finish so I want to preserve it at any cost. Finding another good tank will be next to impossible & if I did most likely it would have same issue.

 

That's funny about the brake/gear mix up. Rear brake is on left, shifter on right. Kick start is on left so that makes it interesting to start. 

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ML3
4 hours ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

@ML3 cool old Bultaco!!! :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

I'd be inclined to look at an aftermarket tank if I was going to run it... not sure with the old "stuff" in there it would get clean. :eusa-think:

 

Maybe some of those tank liner products would work? @Achto @WHX?? @Pullstart??? Haven't you guys used some?

I purchased a tank liner kit that will work w/fiberglass. Hughs Bultaco in N.Y. recommended it & they have used it with success. 

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Pullstart

I have used KBS tank sealer and it’s awesome.  As for busting the loose stuff up, you could do some 1/4-20 nuts, or even some BBs and a solution of liquid of your choice (kerosene, mineral spirits, gasoline even, etc).  I’ve heard stories of people bungee strapping a tank to a rear tractor wheel and going for a cruise.  You could wrap the tank in a couple old towels or the like to protect the outside.

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ML3
38 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

I have used KBS tank sealer and it’s awesome.  As for busting the loose stuff up, you could do some 1/4-20 nuts, or even some BBs and a solution of liquid of your choice (kerosene, mineral spirits, gasoline even, etc).  I’ve heard stories of people bungee strapping a tank to a rear tractor wheel and going for a cruise.  You could wrap the tank in a couple old towels or the like to protect the outside.

KBS is what I bought. I've got some 2" drywall screws, 2" long wood bolts, some ball bearings, & a 5" section of chain. It's slowly working. I'm reluctant to use any chemicals/solvents. 

 

Here's what's inside tank.......

20241214_173235.jpg

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JCM

When you get caught up with your projects sometime @ML3  I started a thread in November 2020 under Non-Tractor related Dirt bikes/ ORV/ snowmobiles, 3 pages of it. You may have an interest.     :auto-dirtbike:     Take care

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ebinmaine

Trina tore apart the mini counter that was beside the stove dividing the kitchen and dining area. It's now wide open there and she has an extra prep spot.  The shoe rack is what's left of the lower shelving, reassembled. 

 

 

 

IMG_20241215_130320.jpg.079659036882e2a59e0eb71da017c3ae.jpg

 

 

IMG_20241215_130325.jpg.ddaf670880d7de4c1439d5e999b984a4.jpg

 

 

IMG_20241215_130307.jpg.95254ad1615a995bddaf5ea30e6b110e.jpg

 

 

 

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Handy Don
On 12/14/2024 at 5:08 PM, ML3 said:

seal it with epoxy

If you are trying to remove the epoxy, the only solvent I know is acetone, Not pleasant to use as it emits wicked fumes and eats lots of stuff besides epoxy, like the latex gloves I tried to use to protect my hands.

I agree with @SylvanLakeWH that it’ll be dicey to get it completely clean down to a solid surface in there. I’d always wonder if any stray bits of epoxy were still in there ready to peel off.

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8ntruck

We've traveled to our winter quarters.  Starting to get projects here restarted.  Ordered some lumber today - delivery time is Friday sometime between 8am and 8pm.

 

I got the old Worx battery powered walk behind mower out with its bagger attachment and picked up the leaves in the back yard.  The batteries didn't take a full charge and the blade is out of balance.  It has served me well for about 20 years, so I'm not sure how much more money to throw into it.

 

The next job on the porch is some large, long trim pieces.  Yes, I could get by with a circular saw, but a miter saw would be better.  My miter saw is in Michigan....

 

While I was in the big box store ordering lumber, I took a look at miter saws.  I took a liking to a 12" De Walt slider.  I am going to be working with long pieces, so I probably need a stand  as well.  Lots of money.  I wandered another aisle over and discovered a buy the saw, get the stand for free deal.  Welllll, that changes things.  Think I'll take advantage of that deal tomorrow.

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ebinmaine
2 minutes ago, 8ntruck said:

miter saws.  I took a liking to a 12" De Walt slider.

 

We just bought a Dewalt DWS780. 

It's the cat's meeeyow. The bee's knees. 

Excellent.  

 

 

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8ntruck
18 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

We just bought a Dewalt DWS780. 

It's the cat's meeeyow. The bee's knees. 

Excellent.  

 

 

The one with a laser sight?

Edited by 8ntruck

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ebinmaine
Just now, 8ntruck said:

The one with a laser sight?

No laser. It has a double shadow type effect.  

 

From HD site: 

"Essentially XPS technology uses an LED to project light down either side of the blade, creating a shadow of the blade in the work area.

 XPS casts a shadow from both sides of the blade onto the wood. It also lights up the area around the cut line."

 

 

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953 nut
9 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

No laser. It has a double shadow type effect. 

I find the laser that mounts against the blade to be very accurate. Just follow the pencil line with the light and you have an accurate cut. I wouldn't trust the ones that are mounted to the saw body.

Irwin Industrial Tools 3061001 Miter Saw Laser Guide - Power Tool  Accessories - Amazon.com

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ebinmaine
3 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

I find the laser that mounts against the blade to be very accurate. Just follow the pencil line with the light and you have an accurate cut. I wouldn't trust the ones that are mounted to the saw body.

 

 

 

I can definitely see the logic in that.

The setup on our saw is a light that shines from both sides of the blade so the steel circle creates a shadow that is not negotiable in position.

 

You turn on the light but not the blade and bring it down close to the piece being sliced. The darker shadow under the blade IS the cut.

 

But here's the thing....

We aren't trying to do Fine Cabinetry here. This system works great for us but I can't speak for any effort that would be less than a 16th of an inch or half a degree tilt or whatever.

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