What did you do today?

[Wheel-N-It 2,968]

6 minutes ago, 8ntruck said:

 Good thought.  This house is on a well.  The pipe from the well is black plastic. I've never opened the cover on the breaker box, and now that you have mentioned it, I don't remember seeing a ground wire anywhere.  Any chance the ground is through the well pump?

Doubtful on grounding through the well pump. So the next thing you need to consider is not grounding but "Bonding" the remaining metallic water piping system. This would also need to originate from your main electrical service panel. If your main service disconnect is 200 amps, then use a #4 solid bare copper conductor and  terminate one end at the main electrical panel and the other end on your copper water piping. If your copper water piping system is interrupted by the new pex then you will need to also bond the isolated piping system.

If your copper piping system is already bonded then just make sure the rest of the system is bonded beyond where it will be interrupted by the new pex. You can actually install a #4 copper between the old section and the isolated section (a jumper). Remember, you are not grounding, you are "Bonding".  Its basically the same thing but the word "Bonding" is a more accurate technical term.

It's really important that you investigate this. I'm not some keyboard wanna be electrical expert. I am qualified as an "Unlimited" licensed electrical contractor here in North Carolina, and I also currently hold a Level 3 (Unlimited) electrical inspectors certification here in North Carolina. Anyway, just trying to help a fellow Red Square Member, and keep him and his family safe from any hazards that would come from the use of anything electrical in the home wiring system. 

[8ntruck 6,998]

2 hours ago, Wheel-N-It said:

Doubtful on grounding through the well pump. So the next thing you need to consider is not grounding but "Bonding" the remaining metallic water piping system. This would also need to originate from your main electrical service panel. If your main service disconnect is 200 amps, then use a #4 solid bare copper conductor and  terminate one end at the main electrical panel and the other end on your copper water piping. If your copper water piping system is interrupted by the new pex then you will need to also bond the isolated piping system.

If your copper piping system is already bonded then just make sure the rest of the system is bonded beyond where it will be interrupted by the new pex. You can actually install a #4 copper between the old section and the isolated section (a jumper). Remember, you are not grounding, you are "Bonding".  Its basically the same thing but the word "Bonding" is a more accurate technical term.

It's really important that you investigate this. I'm not some keyboard wanna be electrical expert. I am qualified as an "Unlimited" licensed electrical contractor here in North Carolina, and I also currently hold a Level 3 (Unlimited) electrical inspectors certification here in North Carolina. Anyway, just trying to help a fellow Red Square Member, and keep him and his family safe from any hazards that would come from the use of anything electrical in the home wiring system. 

Thought so.

 

This house was built about 1960.  Looks like the service was updated to 100 amps sometime since - maybe in the '80's, when it looks like a remodel was done.  The plumbing is a mix of copper and PVC like plastic.  I don't think that the electrics are bonded.  If I don't see a ground (bond?) wire in the breaker box, my thought would be to drive a grounding (bonding?) rod into the ground and connect to that.  Is #4 stranded acceptable?

[Wheel-N-It 2,968]

6 hours ago, 8ntruck said:

Thought so.

 

This house was built about 1960.  Looks like the service was updated to 100 amps sometime since - maybe in the '80's, when it looks like a remodel was done.  The plumbing is a mix of copper and PVC like plastic.  I don't think that the electrics are bonded.  If I don't see a ground (bond?) wire in the breaker box, my thought would be to drive a grounding (bonding?) rod into the ground and connect to that.  Is #4 stranded acceptable?

For the 100 amp electrical service to meet current code you will need to use a #8 solid copper to the water pipe system, and #6 solid copper to one 8ft ground rod. If the metallic water pipe is not available for connection then you can drive one additional ground rod a minimum of 6ft away from the other one and connect to it with #6 copper

[cleat 5,927]

When I raised my well casing above ground and converted to a submersible pump I added a #6 ground cable to the well casing as well as retaining the ground rod and bonding to the copper water pipe. 

I figure more grounds can't hurt and a steel well casing deep into the ground has to be about as good as it gets.

 

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,297]

Mowed the yard this morning after seeing the heat forecast for the rest of the week. Almost most finished when a wasp stung me on the throat. A huge amount of 4 letter words rushed out of my mouth and I finished with the h**l with trimming. 

[squonk 41,071]

Got these in the mail today. $13 ea.

 

 

[8ntruck 6,998]

Pulled down drywall in the lake house bathroom project today.  NO grounds in the bathroom wiring, and some water damaged sheathing under the plastic frame 'update' window.

 

Looks like I'll be replacing the wiring clear back to the breaker panel to correct the grounding situation.

 

I really didn't want to pull siding and work around that window.  But, water inside the wall is not good.

[19richie66 17,500]

9 hours ago, squonk said:

Got these in the mail today. $13 ea.

 

 

You’re now in the Lubrication Hall of Fame. 😁

[ebinmaine 67,432]

The Lena will be happy with the Squonk. 

[Stormin 9,981]

 TB testing at the farm today, due to having beasts in some fields within a 5 mile radius of an other farm, that has tested for TB in some cattle. 8hrs testing 300 plus animals in the non stop pouring rain. Even with water proofs I got wet in places I didn't think possible. 

  Home now. Rain stopped and sun trying to show. Typical! 

  

[8ntruck 6,998]

On 7/17/2023 at 7:32 AM, Wheel-N-It said:

For the 100 amp electrical service to meet current code you will need to use a #8 solid copper to the water pipe system, and #6 solid copper to one 8ft ground rod. If the metallic water pipe is not available for connection then you can drive one additional ground rod a minimum of 6ft away from the other one and connect to it with #6 copper

I pulled the cover on the breaker box this morning.  There is a sizeable solid ground wire going from the common (neutral) connection bar out of the box to what I assume is a ground rod.  It is an old box that does not have a ground bar.

 

I have done some research on the subject of grounding and bonding.  To sum things up, the ground wire ties the neutral side of the power to an earth ground.  The 'ground' prong on a 3 wire 120 v plug is really a bond connection, also to the neutral side of the power, and the connection to the earth ground.

 

Is this correct?

 

When I replace the wiring between the bathroom and breaker box, would I be correct connecting both the white wire and the bare ground wire in the 12/2 with ground wire to the neutral bar in the box?

 

The new plumbing in the bathroom will remove all of the copper piping from the system except for a small amount that is on the water heater.  

 

Thanks for your comments, prompting me to learn more about residential wiring.

[Wheel-N-It 2,968]

14 minutes ago, 8ntruck said:

I pulled the cover on the breaker box this morning.  There is a sizeable solid ground wire going from the common (neutral) connection bar out of the box to what I assume is a ground rod.  It is an old box that does not have a ground bar.

 

I have done some research on the subject of grounding and bonding.  To sum things up, the ground wire ties the neutral side of the power to an earth ground.  The 'ground' prong on a 3 wire 120 v plug is really a bond connection, also to the neutral side of the power, and the connection to the earth ground.

 

Is this correct?

 

When I replace the wiring between the bathroom and breaker box, would I be correct connecting both the white wire and the bare ground wire in the 12/2 with ground wire to the neutral bar in the box?

 

The new plumbing in the bathroom will remove all of the copper piping from the system except for a small amount that is on the water heater.  

 

Thanks for your comments, prompting me to learn more about residential wiring.

 

All electrical service, water pipe, driven electrodes, plate electrodes, rebar bonding, etc. is to be derived from the meter enclosure or the enclosure that contains the first overcurrent device in the system.

If your new 12/2 circuit originates from the service panel (the one just after the meter) then yes, connect the white and the bare equipment ground to the same neutral bar.. 

[Stormin 9,981]

  More tree felling at my mates over in Scotland. Dropped 6 ash trees. Next 3 more and a sycamore, then we will have more room to work and will be able to get a tractor and trailer in. Going to have plenty of firewood till the cows come home. 

[Stormin 9,981]

 Second phase of the TB testing today. And a nice sunny day. Checking for reactors to the injections on Tuesday. No adverse reactions it looks like. 

 

  Back home a mowed the Widows back 1/2 acre, as heavy rain forecast for tomorrow. Bit of a shame that, as it's Silloth (Nearest town to me) vintage rally. 

[The Freightliner Guy 1,327]

 got two free generators decided to try the most beat up one fired right up had to clean the jets and drain fuel for it not to surge so badly

[Stormin 9,981]

Usual mowing duty. After changed the rollers and spindles on my 42" deck.

[Stepney 2,325]

Old girl finally made her first show. Sad lack of WH's this year at Eliot, lack of attendees in general as all shows are nowadays. A good time overall though. Ice cream was made via Clinton engine and the little Horse belt started a dead John Deere LA so that was fun. 

[JCM 9,130]

Nice tractor Buddy. Hope to see it in person at the M &G in September. I would have been there yesterday but was recovering from a procedure on Friday. Hey this guy looks just like you   @Stepney

Edited July 30, 2023 by JCM

[Oldskool 6,644]

Here is today's project.

Finishing the roof on camp.

Camp has consumed most of my time for a few months now. 

It's finally to the point I can take some time to get back to tractors.

[Pullstart 62,837]

I sure could use a farm hand some days!  Straightening, then pulling the new 3/4” insulated line set kind of sucks!

 

Our old A/C has been on limp mode for far too long.  The fan seized up about a year or so ago and a cheap box fan has been plugged in sucking the heat out ever since.  
 

When playing with heat transfer, surface area is king.  This new condenser is HUGE!  Went with a piston coil for the furnace plenum and a new line set for the 410A system.

 

[WHX?? 48,815]

39 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

Straightening, then pulling the new 3/4” insulated line set kind of sucks!

 

Your not doing it right then.

Unroll the whole thing out on the lawn. Both lines then black tape them together along with the low voltage wire. Only at the end so you can separate them in the basement. Then feed the whole thing in. Helps if one of the girls feeds it in while your in the basement routing it.

39 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

This new condenser is HUGE!

It's to get the efficiency mandated by Uncle Sam. 20 seer + units are monsters. 

Personally I would have replaced the old fan motor and ran it like I stole it. New stuff is all junk. Some new stuff is just better junk than others. 

They all come with the stupid hail guards that do nothing but trap dirt in. You will have to take it apart yearly to clean. 

Looks like a gorilla had his way with the box! 

Edited July 31, 2023 by WHX??

[Pullstart 62,837]

45 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Looks like a gorilla had his way with the box! 

Geese tore that up as soon as it was off the truck!  

 

45 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Unroll the whole thing out on the lawn. Both lines then black tape them together along with the low voltage wire. Only at the end so you can separate them in the basement.

Now you tell me!  

[Handy Don 12,214]

1 hour ago, Pullstart said:

Straightening, then pulling the new 3/4” insulated line set kind of sucks!

 

 

49 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Unroll the whole thing out on the lawn. Both lines then black tape them together along with the low voltage wire.

 

This is why I was glad our replacement didn’t need new connection pipe. 😁  The original install was of heavy wall tubing so still usable with new fittings at the ends.

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,297]

 @Pullstart and @WHX?? Looks like Fred Sandford's backyard afterwards.

[lynnmor 7,305]

2 hours ago, WHX?? said:

It's to get the efficiency mandated by Uncle Sam. 20 seer + units are monsters. 

Personally I would have replaced the old fan motor and ran it like I stole it. New stuff is all junk. Some new stuff is just better junk than others. 

They all come with the stupid hail guards that do nothing but trap dirt in. You will have to take it apart yearly to clean. 

Looks like a gorilla had his way with the box! 

 

I just installed a 20.5 and it isn't much larger than the old one in length and width, the height is much shorter.  What I hate about the new high efficiency models is the coils wrapping completely around unlike the good old days when you could take off a side panel with twos screws and give the inside a thorough cleaning.  It appears that I would need to forcibly remove the fan with related guts to even have a chance of removing debris.  Perhaps we are to cut down all vegetation within a mile.  I did just get my $500 rebate from the electric company for installing the high efficiency made in China model.