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Jhensley87

GT-14 Kohler K321- No spark

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Jhensley87

Trying to get my late grandfathers GT-14 running. The tractor was running when put in storage about 8 years ago. 
It is a breakerless system. I have tested the coil and trigger module per the maintenance manual. They both test out good. I have checked continuity on all wires except for the black wire that goes behind the flywheel. 
Barring conversion to points and condenser, what should I check next? Thanks for any help! 

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Edited by Jhensley87

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pfrederi

Welcome

 

 

The black wire from the A terminal on the trigger goes to the stator (alternator).  Unfortunately Kohler doesn't provide a specification for that part of the stator. I have had success with breakerless systems but on my GT14 project I finally gave up after swapping out every component  and went to battery points.  Tomorrow  I will test a couple of the stators i have to see what kind of reading the ignition coil provides as resistance reading that you can compare to yours.

Edited by pfrederi
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Jhensley87
1 minute ago, pfrederi said:

Welcome

 

 

The black wire from the A terminal on the trigger goes to the stator (alternator).  Unfortunately Kohler doesn't provide a specification for that part of the stator. I have had success with breakerless systems but on my GT14 project I finally gave up after swapping out every component  and went to battery points.  Tomorrow  I will test a couple of the stators i have to see what kind of reading the ignition coil provides as resistance reading that you can compare to yours.

Thanks a ton! Would you happen to have a parts list of battery points you went to? Thank again. 

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pfrederi

I will add the parts needed for conversion tomorrow after I test my stators...  Conversion is fairly easy

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ZXT

Hey! Another person from Texas!

 

Conversion is definitely easy.

 

Just a rough list of what you'll need:

 

-Ignition switch for battery ignition. Your current one will not work.

-Wire, 12 AWG is what I typically use.

-Coil

-coil wire

-Points

-Condensor

-points push rod

-points cover

 

Other members will likely be more helpful with part numbers.

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953 nut
9 hours ago, Jhensley87 said:

Trying to get my late grandfathers GT-14 running.

:WRS:

Always love to hear of a family continuing to love a Wheel Horse.  Your Grandfather took good care of his '69 GT-14, looks like new.  I like the added grill in front of the fuel tank, nice feature.  This thread by @Aldon covers the points conversion very well if you end up going that route.

 

 

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pfrederi

Checked 3 different breakerless stators 2 10 amp and 1 15 amp.  There is no continuity between that lead and the body of the stator.   Is yours shorted out maybe??  You said all your wires had continuity... make sure that the second wire from the coil, the one that does to the ignition switch, is not grounded when switch is in run/start. It should read open in those positions.

 

If you convert.  You will need the following

 

Points 4715003

Condenser 230722

Point cover 232535

Gasket  5204111

Gromet 220297-s   Seals the wire going into the cover

Push rod 4741104

Coil   any automotive 12 volt that is internally resisted (no external ballast) required  will do  like this one

 

 

coil.JPG

Edited by pfrederi
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bottjernat1

Had to redo my wife's commando kv181 kohler same setup. It had no spark what ended up going wrong was the stator behind the flywheel it fried for some weird reason we never did figure it out.

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Edited by bottjernat1
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Jhensley87

Okay, I’ve got all the parts and have started the process! 

9CA15872-421B-4531-8724-4BDC031D428C.jpeg

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Jhensley87

This was both fun and stressful! 

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ZXT
2 hours ago, Jhensley87 said:

This was both fun and stressful! 

22E717A0-9FB2-4DD2-B360-1621802D6146.jpeg

 

 

Looks like you're well on your way! Don't toss the parts you pull off. They don't make parts for those any more, and any good components would likely be useful to someone else!

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Jhensley87

Where do I hook up the black wire coming off the strator? It is hooked up to the trigger currently, but that is being removed with the points system. 

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pfrederi

You will not put the trigger back in.  You can cut off or tape up the end of the black wire that went from stator to the A terminal to the trigger.

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Jhensley87
36 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

You will not put the trigger back in.  You can cut off or tape up the end of the black wire that went from stator to the A terminal to the trigger.

Great, Thanks! So will the positive of the new Ignition coil go straight to the “M” of the key switch? 

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pfrederi

NO!! You have to change ignition switches when you go to battery points...You need a switch with an "I" terminal.

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Jhensley87
12 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

NO!! You have to change ignition switches when you go to battery points...You need a switch with an "I" terminal.


Well, I’m glad I asked!! Many thanks!

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953 nut

A 103 990 ignition switch and this drawing should do the trick. May need to ad another wire from the "A" terminal with another 15 amp fuse for the electric clutch.

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953 nut
1 hour ago, Jhensley87 said:

will the positive of the new Ignition coil go straight to the “M” of the key switch?

:no:

 

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Jhensley87

Okay, I’ve got the new switch in. If I’m understanding correctly, the only difference to wiring this new switch is to wire the points to the “I” terminal? And add the inline fuses where needed. 

FCD4BD88-0B4B-4954-8AF3-AD4803EE3096.jpeg

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ZXT
3 hours ago, Jhensley87 said:

Okay, I’ve got the new switch in. If I’m understanding correctly, the only difference to wiring this new switch is to wire the points to the “I” terminal? And add the inline fuses where needed. 

FCD4BD88-0B4B-4954-8AF3-AD4803EE3096.jpeg

That is correct. Just make sure you pin the connector like the one in Richard's photo diagram and you ought to be good to go.

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pfrederi

The "I" terminal wire goes to the small "+" terminal on the coil.

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Joel Van
On 5/20/2020 at 7:58 PM, Jhensley87 said:

Okay, I’ve got the new switch in. If I’m understanding correctly, the only difference to wiring this new switch is to wire the points to the “I” terminal? And add the inline fuses where needed. 

FCD4BD88-0B4B-4954-8AF3-AD4803EE3096.jpeg

 

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Joel Van

What is the part number for the switch with the I terminal?

 

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wallfish
22 minutes ago, Joel Van said:

What is the part number for the switch with the I terminal?

Have a look at the link below. Just check the size of the hole in the panel for the switch. They come in different sizes to match the size of the hole. Most likely the 5th one down with a 5/8 hole

http://www.psep.biz/store/toro_mower_electrical_parts.htm

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Joel Van

Thank you.  If I may ask another dumb question, which one is proper for the Kohler engine with the electronic pickup instead of the regular points?  This is for a Wheelhorse GT-14,

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