Tearing apart a Ford 140, need help so I don't ruin things

[posifour11 723]

Ok, so I bought this tractor for the engine to put in my electro 12 as a stopgap while I rebuild the original engine.

 

I have everything ready to move over, but I don't know how to remove the electric PTO from the Ford engine without damaging it. I'll add pictures at the end for more clarity. 

 

I'm just going to part out this tractor when I'm done, but there's no reason to ruin a part that someone else could use. I think I'm going to have to buy special screw bits (cheap at harbor freight and I have one close) , cut slots in these screws or just grind them off in order to get to the "more important" parts to remove it. 

 

I'd surely appreciate the help. 

 

Edited April 25, 2020 by posifour11

[posifour11 723]

To add stupid to ignorant, I bought (or traded for) this tractor ( the electro) without an electric PTO and I've used it for ground engaging implements since then. But, I just started thinking that I could leave this engine as it is (it came with the electric clutch, but no brace to attach to) that if I can make this one work, why not keep it for random future uses? 

 

I know, my brain doesn't run linear, but I don't think it will hurt to keep it on there in case it is useful later. I guess I have to get my wife to do algebra for me. I know the pulley on the current engine is way too big because this tractor is way too fast as it is. 

 

I hope all of that random stuff made sense. 

 

Edited to clarify. 

Edited April 25, 2020 by posifour11
Clarification

[squonk 41,064]

1 hour ago, posifour11 said:

Ok, so I bought this tractor for the engine to put in my electro 12 as a stopgap while I rebuild the original engine.

 

I have everything ready to move over, but I don't know how to remove the electric PTO from the Ford engine without damaging it. I'll add pictures at the end for more clarity. 

 

I'm just going to part out this tractor when I'm done, but there's no reason to ruin a part that someone else could use. I think I'm going to have to buy special screw bits (cheap at harbor freight and I have one close) , cut slots in these screws or just grind them off in order to get to the "more important" parts to remove it. 

 

I'd surely appreciate the help. 

 

 

I think they don't want you to take out those screws for a reason! 

[posifour11 723]

58 minutes ago, squonk said:

 

I think they don't want you to take out those screws for a reason! 

You're probably right. It looks like an AC clutch from the back. The bolt in the center came out easily enough. And there's a slanted ring on the inside, not a normal snap ring. 

Edited April 25, 2020 by posifour11
Add picture.

[Tractorhead 9,064]

This screws are available as bits, but i agree to squonk,

such „special Screws“ normally used as a Warn Sign to rethink what you do.

[posifour11 723]

1 minute ago, Tractorhead said:

This screws are available as bits, but i agree to squonk,

such „special Screws“ normally used as a Warn Sign to rethink what you do.

I'm good with that. I wouldn't mind it staying where it is. I have to take measurements to make sure the horse doesn't go any faster than the last owner had it going. It needs to be slowed down as it is. 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

It‘s up to you if it run‘s faster or not, but they (Wheelhorse /Toro) changed a well balanced Gear ratio 

between the drive and Work balance.

 

The Work shall not overload the Tranny or the Engine, but shall be able to put some force on it at harder Works.

Also the Belt pulley‘s are part of that whole Ratio, if you change it, the possibillity is given the System doesn‘t work as it should.

 

I don‘t know if you like it just as fast Mower or also as Plowtractor, if you like a quick puller or a more powerful

but all there ratios are usable with the Setup and implements they given.

if you like to change it, it‘s up to you.👍

[posifour11 723]

13 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

It‘s up to you if it run‘s faster or not, but they (Wheelhorse /Toro) changed a well balanced Gear ratio 

between the drive and Work balance.

 

The Work shall not overload the Tranny or the Engine, but shall be able to put some force on it at harder Works.

Also the Belt pulley‘s are part of that whole Ratio, if you change it, the possibillity is given the System doesn‘t work as it should.

 

I don‘t know if you like it just as fast Mower or also as Plowtractor, if you like a quick puller or a more powerful

but all there ratios are usable with the Setup and implements they given.

if you like to change it, it‘s up to you.👍

I don't remember who it was I traded or bought it from, but I know they put a bigger pulley on the engine. It's probably 1.75 times faster than it should be. I think he lived around Lebanon, MO. 

 

I don't like it fast. I want to get it back to stock speed. 

Edited April 25, 2020 by posifour11
Clarify

[squonk 41,064]

A special pulled threads into that hole. Then a push bolt threaded on the puller would push on the crank to remove the clutch

[posifour11 723]

8 minutes ago, squonk said:

A special pulled threads into that hole. Then a push bolt threaded on the puller would push on the crank to remove the clutch

I wondered about the threads inside and thought the same thing. It's all really pristine. 

 

Maybe I should just think about transferring it over to the electro and maybe using it later? As long as I can get the electro back to stock speed with an engine that doesn't sound like it's a rev away from kabooming, I'm good with that! 

 

I've only been able to use it for a turning plow(very wrong revs because of the wrong pulley) and pulling a wagon (still way too fast!) 

[pfrederi 17,708]

Threads to push it off would be 5/8 NC  7/8 NC or 1" NC  WH nor Ford made the PTOs most were Werner Just tread in the appropriate size and it will come off.

[posifour11 723]

1 minute ago, pfrederi said:

Threads to push it off would be 5/8 NC  7/8 NC or 1" NC  WH nor Ford made the PTOs most were Werner Just tread in the appropriate size and it will come off.

 

Tell me what to do with them. 

 

You know I don't know how to do anything with these things. 

 

Or should I find a Ford guy to do this?

 

You know I want to keep this for a Ford guy that wants it for his. 

[squonk 41,064]

2 minutes ago, posifour11 said:

 

Tell me what to do with them. 

 

You know I don't know how to do anything with these things. 

 

Or should I find a Ford guy to do this?

 

You know I want to keep this for a Ford guy that wants it for his. 

No! A Ford guy would just use a hammer!!! 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,040]

7 minutes ago, posifour11 said:

 

Tell me what to do with them. 

 

You know I don't know how to do anything with these things. 

 

Or should I find a Ford guy to do this?

 

You know I want to keep this for a Ford guy that wants it for his. 

Thread the big bolt in. When it hits the end of the crankshaft keep turning. It will push the crank out of the pto.

 

Garry

[squonk 41,064]

9 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Threads to push it off would be 5/8 NC  7/8 NC or 1" NC  WH nor Ford made the PTOs most were Werner Just tread in the appropriate size and it will come off.

Correct. But the "proper"  way is the puller external threads grab the threads of the clutch and hold it. The internal threads of the puller are fine thread to provide a slow/ powerful push to avoid damaging a stuck clutch

[posifour11 723]

1 minute ago, squonk said:

No! A Ford guy would just use a hammer!!! 

Dammit! Its been a while, but I know you are a fellow Chevy guy. (It's only been probably 6 years) I still have to show you the 66 c-10 that is still mine! I was going up to get it over the Easter weekend, but the  commies told me I couldn't!

[posifour11 723]

7 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Thread the big bolt in. When it hits the end of the crankshaft keep turning. It will push the crank out of the pto.

 

Garry

Garry! Are you sure? I'm going to clamp the pulley with a vice grips!

[adsm08 2,046]

43 minutes ago, squonk said:

No! A Ford guy would just use a hammer!!! 

 

Speaking as a Ford guy, hammer and torch are my two most commonly used tools, closely followed (in numerical order) by 10, 13, and 15 mm sockets and another slightly smaller hammer.

[posifour11 723]

I'm not going to do anything if it will hurt this thing(for the next 48 hours, anyway) unless you folks tell me it will work. Neither one of them is eating grass, if that makes sense. 😁

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,040]

2 hours ago, posifour11 said:

Garry! Are you sure? I'm going to clamp the pulley with a vice grips!

That is the only reason the threads are there.

 

Garry

[posifour11 723]

25 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

That is the only reason the threads are there.

 

Garry

Garry. I hope this picture makes it more clear. There are larger threads outside of the threads of the regular bolt. I think I see that you are wanting me to add a spacer or something to use the current bolt to pull the assembly off of the shaft?

Edited April 26, 2020 by posifour11
Adding pictures

[squonk 41,064]

Posi , That clutch was designed to be removed with a special puller like I said BUT the method Garry and Paul mentioned will work.

 

Here is the type of puller used. You thread the larger threads into your clutch and using a wrench on the outer hex, hold the clutch from turning. Use another wrench to turn the inner push bolt to remove the clutch

 

Edited April 26, 2020 by squonk

[posifour11 723]

Ah. I get it now. Makes sense. Thanks everyone!

[posifour11 723]

Problem solved. My neighbor is a retired mechanic, so I took it over to him. He had it off in under a minute. He put the right screw bit in the screws, smacked the end of the driver with a hammer and unscrewed them. Zipped out the snap ring and gave a good yank. Came right off. 

 

So, this particular problem is solved. Thanks everyone!