Steering wheel removal D-180

[3WHDave 60]

Ok, I give, how does one remove the steering wheel on a D-180?  I have looked about the collar under the wheel and see no screw/roll-pin or any fastener.  I did see a hint of a circle, but it is only 1/16 of an inch at most, a diameter that would sheer of a radial load were placed against it, but if the wheel is on a spline, a 1/16 would hold.  What am I missing?

[pfrederi 17,989]

No roll pin on a D series just the nut...Then soaking cursing and praying....

[pacer 3,174]

You just about HAVE  to have this type puller ---- Besides it is a handy tool to have in the shop anyway! Generally referred to as a 'clamshell' puller. Put the 2 big pieces under the wheel with FLAT side against the wheel. If you get it tightened down real tight and still stuck, whap the threaded piece with a hammer thatll usually pop it off. (The concave side is for bearings.....)

 

 2PC bearing Splitter Gear Puller Fly Wheel Separator Set Tool. This is a pic from one at HF - I think one of the 20% coupons will work here & should bring it down to less than $50.

 

[pfrederi 17,989]

16 minutes ago, pacer said:

You just about HAVE  to have this type puller ---- Besides it is a handy tool to have in the shop anyway! Generally referred to as a 'clamshell' puller. Put the 2 big pieces under the wheel with FLAT side against the wheel. If you get it tightened down real tight and still stuck, whap the threaded piece with a hammer thatll usually pop it off. (The concave side is for bearings.....)

 

 2PC bearing Splitter Gear Puller Fly Wheel Separator Set Tool. This is a pic from one at HF - I think one of the 20% coupons will work here & should bring it down to less than $50.

 

 

Pulled a lot of things with  a kit like that...Well worth the money

[3WHDave 60]

Ok, ya'll made me laugh, and I needed it with the cursing and praying!  I like this board, and I have been/am a member of many.  I am an out-of-control restorer of things.  Started at 14 with a Model A, been through the grand piano thing (1919 Mason & Hamlin, sounds great), motorcycles (too many) and now WH's!  Again, this board has a sense of humor!  Now for the Q: what nut?  the steering wheel doesn't have an obvious cap to remove, and the collar under the steering wheel is round.  Should I start prying at the center of the wheel to find a cover?  Please, add humor! (plenty of long hanging fruit in my response!)

[pfrederi 17,989]

[pacer 3,174]

Yep, Paul has it - that #31 is just a little piece of tin with the logo on, Use a small tip flat screwdriver and gently ease it around the edge lifting as you go. you should feel the edge and prize up on the rubber/cover - its pliable, and work around lifting and itll come out pretty easily. An impact wrench on the nut will ease getting it loose, but do screw it back on to where the nut is right at the top of the threads - dont wanna booger them! That thing is gonna be STUCK -itll take some force to get it broke loose, hence the clam shell.......

 

Why are you pulling it? slack in steering? or?

Edited April 20, 2020 by pacer

[3WHDave 60]

OMG!  Found it before looking back at post!  The cap was soooo weathered that there was no indication it was removable.  I went out armed with determination and a beer (double IPA)  popped the cap off to reveal mucho-rust!  It is soaking in anti-rust.  Thank you Paul and Pacer, good guys with good info, all I need in life.  On a side note, all sheet metal went out today for media blasting, going to shoot a color-close epoxy next week.  I am totally excited to see how this things performs in the woods of Northern Michigan, pulling logs out for slicing and dicing!  Stay safe out there, this CoVID thing is real, and we will beat it, its my business when not rebuilding things that have value.

[3WHDave 60]

Update on project:  I bought this thing 7 days ago, here is where it stands:

[3WHDave 60]

I choose not to pull and paint the dash as I have many electrical thing to address before doing so.  All else has been rebuilt and painted.

[Pullstart 63,201]

You in Northern MI?  Nice work on the big D!   to the board!

[3WHDave 60]

Thanks Pullstart, yes, Northern MI via Saginaw, to Detroit to Denver, live half time in Boyne other in Denver.  I prefer Boyne/MI over Colorado, I love water, small towns and family.  The D-180 is coming together, awaiting a few more parts and then the big start-up.  I have lubed the top-end, changed fluids, completely de-crapped the fluid system, replacing everything from tank-to-carb.  This thing was a mess.  I pulled a 1926 Chevy out of a barn that was in better shape than this.  It will run again, and it will run right.  On that note, I am looking for a front bucket/end-loader.  The brand I see most is an ARK.  I'm sure there are others, but this Horse will need to work if it wants to be fed!

[3WHDave 60]

pfrederi: I get it now, the Gear Splitter Wheel Puller is the only why to grab the steering wheel!  Did I listen the first time?  Well, lets just say I'm listing now!  Live and learn, or as I say, live and relearn!

Edited April 22, 2020 by 3WHDave

[3WHDave 60]

Well folks, the steering wheel is off, but at a cost.  Cutting to the chase, I will be able to assemble it, but not with the original nut.  This Horse sat outside, unprotected, in Michigan for a decade or longer (copping a plea).  While tightening the wheel puller in combination with the bearing splitter, the top of the steering shaft split, nut and all.  I then resorted to use a sheet metal drill-bit (that funky looking tapered bit with now, two uses) and cleaned the mushroomed threaded steering rod down to the spline.  Next, as luck would have it (yup, there was still a place for luck) the I.D. of the steering rod accepted a ½-13 tap.  I tapped it for the for length of the tap and then proceeded to place a bolt into the threaded shaft.  I pre-drilled the head of the bolt so as to have a center point to receive the wheel puller screw.  After screwing in the ½-13 bolt, I heated the end of the bolt red-hot, letting the heat transfer into the assembly.  I quenched the bolt thinking that would cool the shaft faster than the wheel spline (perhaps I was over thinking it). Then I took an impact wrench to the splitter and the wheel puller.  One rap on the wheel puller bolt and the steering wheel was free.  I plan on using the threaded I.D. of the shaft with a bolt as a retaining method upon assembly.  Oh brother, I call it a victory.  Q: Is the hollow steering shaft blind at the far end?  In other words, should I worry about the chips from tapping the I.D.?