310-8 Bucket Tractor

[Jhook 849]

On 6/25/2020 at 9:00 PM, KrazeyOlDave said:

Thank y’all for the kind words and especially the tips, excellent info. I’ve got the gravity box for the rear already as suggested. Just not on yet until I get my head wrapped around this hydraulic stuff. (Not my strong points). I actually went smaller on the pulleys but went 2 groove, belt tensioner in route. Also installed a flow control.

I almost forgot, maybe I’m lucky but with a full bucket of dirt, the steering is much easier than I thought it would be. However, I do have the plans for upgraded power steering, along with a full solid machined axle up front. As for the frame, it does concern me BUT, I’m not opposed to stripping it down and building a Hulk frame for it 😂

What was the approximate material cost for this whole build? Minus the tractor

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

16 hours ago, Jhook said:

What was the approximate material cost for this whole build? Minus the tractor

I stole the tractor for $200 and put new tires, seat, starter and battery in it. The bucket build itself was  roughly 2K.
 

So you all know about the belt slipping issues, I think I have it fixed. I’m going to test it later today. Looks a bit crude but I’ll radius the bracket and paint it if it pans out.

 

 

[wallfish 17,021]

3 hours ago, KrazeyOlDave said:

So you all know about the belt slipping issues, I think I have it fixed. I’m going to test it later today. Looks a bit crude but I’ll radius the bracket and paint it if it pans out.

Maybe not necessary but applying the tension to the slack side of the belt loop could hold better. The drive side of the belt will tension more under load and try to push out on the idler pulley. If it pushes out the pulley the belt loop will be getting looser around the pulley groove. With all the tension applied on the slack side, the drive side of the belt loop directly drives the driven pulley. Does that make sense?

Edited July 1, 2020 by wallfish

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

Didn’t like how hot it was getting, just too much loop. So I threw on a 1” shorter belt, much better!

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

1/4 throttle scoop

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

2 hours ago, wallfish said:

Maybe not necessary but applying the tension to the slack side of the belt loop could hold better. The drive side of the belt will tension more under load and try to push out on the idler pulley. If it pushes out the pulley the belt loop will be getting looser around the pulley groove. With all the tension applied on the slack side, the drive side of the belt loop directly drives the driven pulley. Does that make sense?

I think so 🤔 it spins counter clockwise 

[R. L. Addison 299]

Wheel Horse weight limit recomendations for nArk 500 on the "C" series was  #350. I did not have the weight box on the rear but had my breaking plow on (unless working in tight quarters) with loaded bar-cleats & weights. I had no traction problems, but very tipsy if loaded bucket was raised very high.

[wallfish 17,021]

9 hours ago, KrazeyOlDave said:

I think so 🤔 it spins counter clockwise 

 

Again this may not be necessary if it's not slipping but something to try if it is slipping

 

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

31 minutes ago, wallfish said:

 

Again this may not be necessary if it's not slipping but something to try if it is slipping

 

Gotcha, thank you so much for making that clear!!! Excellent info sir, I appreciate it!!!

Edited July 2, 2020 by KrazeyOlDave

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

5 hours ago, R. L. Addison said:

Wheel Horse weight limit recomendations for nArk 500 on the "C" series was  #350. I did not have the weight box on the rear but had my breaking plow on (unless working in tight quarters) with loaded bar-cleats & weights. I had no traction problems, but very tipsy if loaded bucket was raised very high.

I’m not having any traction issues so far. I had the bucket nearly full last night with sand/clay mix and it did great. I’m not getting any side to side flex do to the under belly struts I put in, very stable. 

[Pullstart 62,923]

Good stuff in this thread!  The more you work it, the less you’ll wanna sell it 

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

On 7/2/2020 at 7:26 AM, pullstart said:

Good stuff in this thread!  The more you work it, the less you’ll wanna sell it 

Yep! Except I think my differential just puked...it’s making a clink sound every few minutes...sounds like someone is hitting the fender with a big bolt. 
 

I’d LOVE to upgrade the rear end but not a clue what bolts in. Hydrostatic drive would be sweet but it’s probably not a bolt and go.

 

My axles are 1” diameter... I need to upgrade to the 1 1/8” I think? I’ve read the C160 is the strongest?

Edited July 5, 2020 by KrazeyOlDave

[Pullstart 62,923]

Anything 1-1/8” axle would work for ya, anything 8 speed would bolt right in.  Lowell @wheelhorseman sells the transmission case gaskets, it might be worth a look inside.  There are plenty of parts available to fix what you have, or look for a donor with the larger axles.  @davidtmercer did have an arrangement of transmissions, he’s just south of the MI border off 131.  It might be worth asking him what he”s got.

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

28 minutes ago, pullstart said:

Anything 1-1/8” axle would work for ya, anything 8 speed would bolt right in.  Lowell @wheelhorseman sells the transmission case gaskets, it might be worth a look inside.  There are plenty of parts available to fix what you have, or look for a donor with the larger axles.  @davidtmercer did have an arrangement of transmissions, he’s just south of the MI border off 131.  It might be worth asking him what he”s got.

Thank you!!!!!

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

On 6/17/2020 at 6:52 AM, Tractorhead said:

I have the same control.

there are marks on the side, they called P ( to pump) and T (to Tank or Reservoir)

in your Pict the upper side is the P Terminal, that is the side where the Screw ( pressureregulator) on the bottomside is. the other side is the T Terminal that must facing back into Tank.

 

each Valve have an out and an in the go directly to the cylindres, that seems correct as far as i can see.

 

i suppose, you connected P and T vice versa.

If so, the system will not work.

 

They Valves bleed themself simply just by move each lever until the cylindres go to it’s endpoint 

than pull the lever in opposite direction to bleed both sides.

That bleeding depends about 5 or 6 times until all Air is completely bleeded.

than refill the tank to level and you are good to go.

 

check also the direction of the Pump, if it delivers on that side, that points to the P on the Valveblock.

to doublecheck if the pump works and rotates in right direction, i would disconnect the sparkplug

and release the connection from valveblock (P) and put it in a glass or bucket.

Than crank with the starter until oil is spilling.

After that, reconnect it to the P Terminal on Valveblock, reconnect the Sparkplug and fireup the Engine.

 

Now your bleeding shall work simply as before suggested.

 

@Tractorhead On the controller, to lower the psi by bass, do I screw it in?

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Screw it in will increase the PSI

Screw it out will decrease the PSI

Edited July 6, 2020 by Tractorhead

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

@davidtmercer hooked me up! Here’s what he found inside my old one.

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

Back up and running...my youngest trying it out.

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

Well, I’m moving and now having to sell this baby! 😢

 

If anyone is interested, it’s listed in the classifieds.

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

Long time, no updates. I didn’t have to move after all. FEL is still kicking butt. Slight change to the pump drive, no issues all summer long.

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Great to hear you can keep it.

 

Allway‘s a good feeling, if you calculate or even estimate Things, 

construct them and they last.

 

👍

 

 

[Pullstart 62,923]

Chain drive, is that full time?  How does that do for noise?  I like the idea of positive engagement and no slip!

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

11 hours ago, pullstart said:

Chain drive, is that full time?  How does that do for noise?  I like the idea of positive engagement and no slip!

Yep, full time. I used a #60 chain, its not ear banging but it’s definitely louder...sounds like a race car with gear to gear timing, LOL. 
Now I can use full capacity and no issues. Believe it or not, my tiny tach shows 2100-2200 rpm’s and never have to throttle up. 

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

It’s that time of the year for upgrades. 520 swept front end install with power steering. 
Due to the front being wider, I will be adding wheel spacers to the back, and also building a wider bucket.

[Tractorhead 9,064]

The upgrade of the Spindles looks great.