310-8 Bucket Tractor

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

Fixed it!

Edited May 19, 2020 by KrazeyOlDave

[ebinmaine 67,712]

Forgive my lack of memory but is that a hitch that you bought? Or something that you made up?

 

I've had this issue with an inexpensive hitch I picked up from eBay a few years back. In my case I was able to widen the holes approximately 1/16.

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

25 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

 

Edited May 19, 2020 by KrazeyOlDave

[ebinmaine 67,712]

Might be a good idea for you to call the vendor to let them know what you're running into in case they need to make adjustments for the future.

 

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

Just finished printing and laminating my decals for the bucket arms and back side of bucket.

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

Some updates: Nearly finished plumbing the hydraulics. Rear tiller/scraper electric power lift wires ran. Stainless hydraulic tank set and ready. Forward strut arms ready for install. 

[ebinmaine 67,712]

LIKE that tank

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

19 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

LIKE that tank

Stainless, not dealing with rust. 👍

[Pullstart 62,923]

Rear tiller/scraper?  What about the weight box?  I think a ripper would be a great addition to a FEL tractor!

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

Well guys, I’m gonna have find a hydraulic guru because I’ve hooked everything up and I’ve either gotten a bad control valve OR more likely I’m not bleeding the air out right. I’m stalling out the pump when I lift or lower, same with bucket tilt. I’ve double and triple checked my lines and they are right. I’m gonna leave a link to the controller, maybe one of y’all will see something I missed in the specs?
If any of ya are professionals with hydraulics, might I please FaceTime you for technical help?

Magister Hydraulic Directional Control Valve 13 GPM with 2 Spools Monoblock 4-Way Tandem Center https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B9VFFTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VVw6EbSYPQ1G2

[Tractorhead 9,064]

On 6/13/2020 at 1:04 AM, KrazeyOlDave said:

 

 

On 6/13/2020 at 1:04 AM, KrazeyOlDave said:

 

Good Work 

Nothing can beat a Loader if you have to move or carry heavy things.

- or even just to play..

 

Btw. Nice Ashtray.... 😂👍

 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

I have the same control.

there are marks on the side, they called P ( to pump) and T (to Tank or Reservoir)

in your Pict the upper side is the P Terminal, that is the side where the Screw ( pressureregulator) on the bottomside is. the other side is the T Terminal that must facing back into Tank.

 

each Valve have an out and an in the go directly to the cylindres, that seems correct as far as i can see.

 

i suppose, you connected P and T vice versa.

If so, the system will not work.

 

They Valves bleed themself simply just by move each lever until the cylindres go to it’s endpoint 

than pull the lever in opposite direction to bleed both sides.

That bleeding depends about 5 or 6 times until all Air is completely bleeded.

than refill the tank to level and you are good to go.

 

check also the direction of the Pump, if it delivers on that side, that points to the P on the Valveblock.

to doublecheck if the pump works and rotates in right direction, i would disconnect the sparkplug

and release the connection from valveblock (P) and put it in a glass or bucket.

Than crank with the starter until oil is spilling.

After that, reconnect it to the P Terminal on Valveblock, reconnect the Sparkplug and fireup the Engine.

 

Now your bleeding shall work simply as before suggested.

 

Edited June 17, 2020 by Tractorhead
Extend

[Tractorhead 9,064]

By the way, 

the Manufacturer of your hydraulic Valve block is Badestnost,

they act under several Brands all arround the World and be actual quasi Standart.

 

i would suggest to expand it to a Float valve on the Lift Cylindres.

The Valve itself is not really cheap about 120$ but this improves the use one step ahead to a Maximum.

the change can be done self. 

I did it on my Beast and be flashed how easy that was and how much more ability‘s you have.

 

 

Here you can take a closer look how „ hard“ this change is.

 

 

 

 

 

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

12 hours ago, Tractorhead said:

I have the same control.

there are marks on the side, they called P ( to pump) and T (to Tank or Reservoir)

in your Pict the upper side is the P Terminal, that is the side where the Screw ( pressureregulator) on the bottomside is. the other side is the T Terminal that must facing back into Tank.

 

each Valve have an out and an in the go directly to the cylindres, that seems correct as far as i can see.

 

i suppose, you connected P and T vice versa.

If so, the system will not work.

 

They Valves bleed themself simply just by move each lever until the cylindres go to it’s endpoint 

than pull the lever in opposite direction to bleed both sides.

That bleeding depends about 5 or 6 times until all Air is completely bleeded.

than refill the tank to level and you are good to go.

 

check also the direction of the Pump, if it delivers on that side, that points to the P on the Valveblock.

to doublecheck if the pump works and rotates in right direction, i would disconnect the sparkplug

and release the connection from valveblock (P) and put it in a glass or bucket.

Than crank with the starter until oil is spilling.

After that, reconnect it to the P Terminal on Valveblock, reconnect the Sparkplug and fireup the Engine.

 

Now your bleeding shall work simply as before suggested.

 

OMG 🤦🏼‍♂️  That fix it!!!!  I need your PayPal email so I can send you money for whatever your favorite beverage is! Thank you!!!!!  

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

2 new bucket brackets going on tomorrow, I miscalculated on them, not enough tilt to dump.

 

 

Edited June 17, 2020 by KrazeyOlDave

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Good if it was that simple.

 

You never get my Paypal 

think we see us next year on the Big Show. And have together a cold Beverage 

 

 

 

Edited June 18, 2020 by Tractorhead
Part of answer not sent. So i edit

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

On 6/18/2020 at 1:39 AM, Tractorhead said:

Good if it was that simple.

 

You never get my Paypal 

think we see us next year on the Big Show. And have together a cold Beverage 

 

 

 

What big show?

[Pullstart 62,923]

On 6/19/2020 at 5:13 PM, KrazeyOlDave said:

What big show?

I think you’re in MI?  It’s a bit of a haul for us to get to Arendtsville, PA but totally worth it!  It should be next weekend, but was cancelled due to coronavirus.

[Pullstart 62,923]

Oh also... Stefan @Tractorhead might could be krazier than you Dave, he’s flying from southern Germany to come see us there!  He also bought a tractor from me, waiting for the courier to pick it up 

[wallfish 17,021]

Nice job !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That thing looks great!

 

 

Curious about the pump and the recommended max RPM because it looks like it's going to be spinning at 7000 + RPM when the engine is running at 3600 with the pulley set up on there now. You probably want a larger pulley on the pump at the same diameter as on the engine, or even larger depending on the GPM of the pump. That will give more surface area of belt contact on the pulley too and limit belt slip under heavy load plus slow the volume down to be more controllable if it's moving too fast. 

Another $0.02 suggestion is changing the front tires. You'll find it hard to steer with a full load and going with tri-rib tires leaves less ground contact so the tires don't bite into the ground as much. Fill the air pressure to tire's capacity too. It's still best to always steer with the tractor moving but it made a big difference when I switched over from just turf tires. The Wheel Horse steering design isn't the best for using a loader and cranking on the steering wheel causes the gears to jump teeth and or break the mount tabs on that cast piece at the frame. Even tractors without a loader will have those tabs broken from people cranking on the wheel to hard. 

[littleredrider 409]

1. I have the tri-ribs on my 520-8, tho not the loader tractor, but with those tires and steering reduction, it is EFFORTLESS!!!!! I have the Vredestein on the loader tractor, they have a flatter profile, and even with the steering reduction there is a lot more effort required to steer, even with an empty bucket. Once I get it back together, gonna swap tires n see how it does. I'm afraid with the ribs and the weight of the loader, the tires will sink in more than the other tires. Time will tell. Awesome build BTW!!!

[Tractorhead 9,064]

@wallfish & @littleredrider have both good suggestions.

 

Add some weight ( counter weight box) coupled with the FEL Frame a little far behind the Rearaxle

that releases the Steering force you need dramatically.

if you build that counter weight box with a Quicksnap mount, you can remove it, to Work in very small areas or while storeing.

 

About the Tyres, that’s a thing in the eye of beholder ( hope i don‘t annoy somebody)

i use normal Turf Tyres with 1,3 Bar pressure, what worked very nice for me.

As Counterweight i would recommended 2x Loader weight behind the Rearaxle center.

To find this point out, measure the tip of your bucket to the Center of your Rearaxle.

half that measurement and measure that beginning from Rearaxle center to rear.

that will be a good starting Point to have the place of your Counterweight.

 

Your actual Gravity Center is the Frontaxle, remove that gravity to Rear

if you work with a counter weight bucket on the Back, you can shift the gravity center more to the rearaxle.

if you fill it with Sand or even Water you are simply able to change the Counterweight as needed.

( dont forget the Load in the Bucket, that‘s on Top

But take Care not have that heavy Load on your Tractor Frame itself, urgently work with a Loader Subframe.

 

 

I hear also the slip of your Belt, that‘s the „sirring“ Sound.

first a changed gearratio and maybe a Springloaded Beltspanner and a bit longer Belt 

give you more pressure on the Belt to prevent that happens.

I used it in my Vertical engine Horse also with about 12Kg pressureforce  and a Gearratio of 1:1,5 on the Pump pulley

and an idle rpm of 2400 RPM to use the FEL with adequate movement on a 4GPM Pump.

That works nearly slipfree with a very impressive Hydraulic force.

 

 

[KrazeyOlDave 860]

Thank y’all for the kind words and especially the tips, excellent info. I’ve got the gravity box for the rear already as suggested. Just not on yet until I get my head wrapped around this hydraulic stuff. (Not my strong points). I actually went smaller on the pulleys but went 2 groove, belt tensioner in route. Also installed a flow control.

I almost forgot, maybe I’m lucky but with a full bucket of dirt, the steering is much easier than I thought it would be. However, I do have the plans for upgraded power steering, along with a full solid machined axle up front. As for the frame, it does concern me BUT, I’m not opposed to stripping it down and building a Hulk frame for it 😂

Edited June 26, 2020 by KrazeyOlDave

[Tractorhead 9,064]

great to hear that new‘s.

 

i would change the pulley on the pump instead adding a flow control.

you have allready a control valve, that can set the hydraulic force.

i marked it into your pict.

 

 

 

The marked area is the Control, the small screw changes the hydraulic pressure.

turn the small screw counterclockwise releases the maximum pressure, turn clockwise increases the Pressure.

 

The flow rate shall be changed by gear ratio, otherwise you have a permanent similar weak hydraulic force

this inline flow controls make sense for dedicated circuits, to restrict them against the rest of hydraulics.

 

One word about Safety, 

don‘t underestimate the Power of Hydraulic Systems.

The used pressures here are far from a Toy, 

 

Another suggest, look at your Hydraulic parts dealer for a „ blast protection tube“ they be just put over your hydraulic tubes.

 

All tubes the be used with any hydraulic load shall be upgraded with.

In case of a pointed rip, the oilspill can‘t hurt you easily or cut your Skin simply.

a needlefine rip in a Hydraulic line under high pressure can easily cut yourself in half.

That can be really dangerous, so please don‘t save this few bucks for your own safety.

the application is as simple as it sounds.

 

 

 

i added 2 picts to show what i meant.

This safety tubes can bring an very small dangerous leak to an harmless oildrip instead of an injection.

Hydraulic Fluid at all is poisoned and can cause you‘re loosing a foot or an arm while injected.

 

 

Another suggest, don‘t build the Frame itself too stiff. it shall support you Tractor‘s frame and take load of it

and keep bad forces away but try to give it a little possibillity to bend.

Things they are too stiff tend to break on overload, or breaks other weakpoints, 

things they can bend a bit show‘s you any Overload ahead while beginning to bend.

 

So you be able to see, if the System works in good condition or if it goes in overload.

 

Keep up your good Work.