Any appliance repair members out there?

[formariz 11,987]

This morning our drier stopped producing heat. Have appliance contract with Public Service but due to current situation they will no do house calls unless it’s an electrical or gas emergency. All service contractors in area are closed.

Plan to open it tomorrow to check it. Hopefully just a bad igniter. Any advice appreciated. @squonk??? At this time it just may be easier to buy another one?

Edited April 13, 2020 by formariz

[squonk 41,021]

I'm assuming gas? An igniter is about $20 bucks. Another common problem is a small thermal fuse in the dryer chimney. You can check each with a simple DMV.  115V to the igniter and continuity thru the fuse.Goggle the fuse so you can see what it looks like. If the fuse is bad, pull the whole chimney off and clean it out

[bc.gold 3,403]

The drum belt keeps tension on the idler pulley should the belt break the idler is released then makes contact with a micro switch to break the electrical circuit or shut down gas supply.

 

Burnt heating element check continuity with multi meter.

Faulty thermo switch, usually when these fail the spade connector will show evidence of over heating.

 

Timer could be faulty.

 

Hidden inside the control panel you'll find and envelope that contains the wire schematic and diagnostic codes for late model machines.

 

While  you have it apart vacuum all the lint from the inside of the cabinet and the motor, add a few drops of lube onto the oil light bushings, their surrounded by a felt wick.

 

Over time the accumulated lint sucks the oil from the wick ending in premature motor failure.

 

[squonk 41,021]

Thermal fuse is a little plastic thingy with 2 wires going to it.Usually mounted in the long filter chimney near the bottom of the dryer

Edited April 13, 2020 by squonk

[cafoose 3,354]

My washer started going out of balance for no reason at all so I Googled it by typing in "washer out of balance" with my brand and model number. Results were the suspension rods were faulty which is a common problem with my washer. I found a set of suspension rods for $45 on and ordered them. I googled replacing them on my model washer and found a YouTube video on it. I replaced them and had no trouble ever since and that was a few years ago. I use the same basic approach with all my problems I don't understand and most of the time I'm successful!

[formariz 11,987]

Thank you everyone. Will be digging into it tomorrow.

[Pullstart 62,786]

Elements and igniters are to be checked by resistance, not continuity.  Some igniters especially might be low enough resistance to not show continuity.  Hot surface igniter like Mike said test for voltage.  Many igniters are 120 volts, 150 ohms or less if I remember correctly.  Continuity is for testing switches and wires 

[bc.gold 3,403]

4 minutes ago, formariz said:

Thank you everyone. Will be digging into it tomorrow.

 

I believe the  contacts inside the thermo disk would be normally closed, if you removed the component then used a heat gun on the face if your hearing is good would hear the disk snap open then as it cools down the disk snaps back to a NC position.

 

The multi meter is my best friend.

[JoeM 7,871]

31 minutes ago, cafoose said:

found a YouTube video on it

I figure a man could do brain surgery watching the tube! 

I came in the house one day and my wife was inside of the dishwasher, iPad on the counter above. She just finished up and was about ready to give it a try and it ran great after using the tube for repair!  

[WHX?? 48,770]

My kinda gal Junkie..

Yer wife got any sisters???

 

Problems Cas let us know between Skunk and I we can wreck it some more!  Need a model # tho.

Hey Mike in your days at NAPA how many times when you asked what vehicle and got a deer in the headlights look!

Jeepers cats Pullstart... just read yer post.... ther is hope for you yet! 

Edited April 13, 2020 by WHX24

[formariz 11,987]

34 minutes ago, WHX24 said:

Need a model # tho.

Not sure of model # probably on the back which I have no access to until I pull it out. Its "built in " under counter. The manual I have is gor a DLG3744W and DLG3744S. I guess its one of the two.

[cafoose 3,354]

19 minutes ago, formariz said:

Not sure of model # probably on the back which I have no access to until I pull it out. Its "built in " under counter. The manual I have is gor a DLG3744W and DLG3744S. I guess its one of the two.

Searching DLG3744W comes up with LG DLG3744W 27 Inch Gas Dryer with 7.3 cu. ft. Capacity. I just searched the model number. Using only model number DLG3744S I got LG DLG3744S 27 Inch Gas Dryer with 7.3 cu. ft. Capacity, 7 Drying Cycles. The first image is the one with "W" at the end. The second image is the one with "S" at the end. Looks like "S" or "W" just indicates color. Does that look like your dryer?

 

 

[formariz 11,987]

That is the one. Silly me model no is actually right in front. Was able to download a service manual with exploded parts view and numbers. Seems like this one also has a reset button that could have tripped .Will probably have other questions tomorrow for you guys. Will keep posting progress. Many thanks.

[bc.gold 3,403]

3 minutes ago, formariz said:

That is the one. Silly me model no is actually right in front. Was able to download a service manual with exploded parts view and numbers. Seems like this one also has a reset button that could have tripped .Will probably have other questions tomorrow for you guys. Will keep posting progress. Many thanks.

 

Now if someone would create a smartphone app to diagnose horse problems.

 

If you prefer the old fashion way, here's a list of error codes.

 

 

[squonk 41,021]

Since it’s LG,  May cost as much as a new one!

[Pullstart 62,786]

12 hours ago, WHX24 said:

 

Jeepers cats Pullstart... just read yer post.... ther is hope for you yet! 

 

I used to teach guys with the mindset of “Imma plumma not an electrician” to gain confidence to grab a meter and actually troubleshoot.  If an igniter is bad, they don’t need a gas valve, control board and wiring harness to “fix” the thing after they replace the burner assembly. They need an igniter.  My job was to train them to take the “I think” out of troubleshooting 

[953 nut 55,069]

The worst part about appliance repair is the time it takes to remove all the outside panels to get inside. Look for any lint build-up inside the dryer. Combustion air comes from the room and if the exhaust duct isn't tight you could get enough lint build-up to reduce the air flow. Most gas appliances have an "air proving" switch that will prevent the ignition from working without adequate air flow. A lint build-up could keep this switch from working.

[pfrederi 17,663]

The more I read about this the happier I am with our 35 year old Whirlpool dryer. Much simpler ...Heck the other half replaced the heater element by herself while I was TDY

[formariz 11,987]

Tested igniters resistance and its good. Its also intact with no broken or charred element.

Tested thermostat #1  it has continuity\Tested reset able thermostat #2. It has continuity. Removed it and tested function by heating it. It works.

Tested sensor assembly. It has continuity.

There is voltage to igniter.

 

Beginning to look like the gas valve assembly?

[WHX?? 48,770]

Getting power to the gas valve? 

Should look like this. Pull the spade connectors off and see if you have continuity across both coils. 

https://www.appliancepartspros.com/lg-gas-burner-valve-5221el2002a-ap4457614.html

 

More trouble shooting help on that site. 

Edited April 14, 2020 by WHX24

[Pullstart 62,786]

17 minutes ago, WHX24 said:

Getting power to the gas valve? 

Should look like this. Pull the spade connectors off and see if you have continuity across both coils. 

https://www.appliancepartspros.com/lg-gas-burner-valve-5221el2002a-ap4457614.html

 

More trouble shooting help on that site. 

 

Resistance across both coils or continuity?  Continuity could mean a short, right!?

[formariz 11,987]

I have good resistance across both coils. No continuity.

[Pullstart 62,786]

7 minutes ago, formariz said:

I have good resistance across both coils. No continuity.

 

That is good.  Check for power to the valve(s) now, should be 24 vdc.  Also, if a coil is energized it should be able to hold on to a paper clip.  They become electromagnets to pull the valve plunger open.

[formariz 11,987]

Both ok with voltage

[squonk 41,021]

Does the igniter actually glow? Some dryers have a sensor that picks up the heat of the igniter and tells the controller to open the gas. I think the controller actually completes the circuit to the valve so you will have voltage at the valve but with out a ground it won't open. That's how a lot of DC controls work. The voltage is available to everything and the controls just complete the circuit.