McGrew 460 #1 Posted April 10, 2020 Folks, My Raider 10/14 has been in constant use for the past week. It has pushed soil with the blade, pulled a plow, and drug a drag harrow around my yard for hours. I noticed the brake wasn’t working well, and checked the brake drum. It was coated with tranny lube. Keep in mind, this 6 speed trans was completely rebuilt a little over a year ago by me with a LOT of expertise from this group. Every bearing and seal was replaced, and it has worked flawlessly. Until this past week, the tractor has not seen hard use. I am wondering if the breather in the dipstick is not allowing any air escape, and with hard use, Heat caused pressure to build up in the case? This is a 5073 transaxle with a limited slip 10 pinion carrier( I saw it spin both back tires on several occasions). Did I get a hold of a bad seal, or is there something else going on? Trans lube was up to the full line on the dipstick. Thoughts? Thanks! Danny 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #2 Posted April 10, 2020 I'm not sure how much those transmissions need to breathe. I've seen several with nothing but a plug where you have a dipstick. I'm thinking you just got lucky enough to get a bad seal. Easy enough to change out so that's good. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,220 #3 Posted April 10, 2020 Not a pressure buildup. The shifter isn't sealed. I'd say what Eric said or the seal was damaged when it was installed, Also check the shaft for excessive wear or a bad bearing. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,771 #4 Posted April 10, 2020 A shaft seal can be damaged just passing over the groove for the lock ring that holds the drum on. I have used masking tape over the groove to prevent damage and use the brake drum as a slide hammer to start the seal squarely in position. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,337 #5 Posted April 10, 2020 21 minutes ago, 953 nut said: A shaft seal can be damaged just passing over the groove for the lock ring that holds the drum on. I have used masking tape over the groove to prevent damage and use the brake drum as a slide hammer to start the seal squarely in position. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,992 #6 Posted April 10, 2020 Another thing that can happen to seals is excessive amounts of dirt, mud and sand wearing into the covering on the seal. While this is rare it can happen and can happen quicker if the seal has some nicks or slight damage. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
McGrew 460 #7 Posted April 10, 2020 Thanks guys! The bearing feels good, and the shaft looks fine, as much as I can see... Every seal and bearing was new when I rebuilt it last year. I guess what bothers me is it has not leaked a drop until this past week. And I did not even think about the shifter not being sealed. Good catch! Thanks for all the information. Tractor is apart and new seal ordered. Danny 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
McGrew 460 #8 Posted April 11, 2020 I pulled the old seal out this evening, and there was a definite tear in the nitrile (?). I found some sharp edges where the two flats on the shaft transition into the round shaft. I spend a good bit if time with a die file and super fine emery paper polishing the shaft. I will definitely wrap masking tape over those areas before installing the new seal just to be sure. Thanks again for all the help! Danny 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #9 Posted April 11, 2020 8 hours ago, McGrew said: wrap masking tape Choose your tape carefully. Cheap masking tape is very coarse and difficult to slide the seal over. I had better luck with thin tape like Scotch tape. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,159 #10 Posted April 11, 2020 (edited) I like that EB. I used masking tape and found couldn't get the seal on over it. Black tape does not work at all. Also put the seal in some hot water or set in the sun to make it a tad softer. Oil helps too. Edited April 11, 2020 by WHX24 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,867 #11 Posted April 11, 2020 I have always used Scotch electrical tape Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
McGrew 460 #12 Posted April 11, 2020 Thank you guys! I will look at the different tapes, and really like the idea of warming the seal before installation. Seal should be here Tuesday. Danny 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cvans 1,009 #13 Posted April 11, 2020 Before installing the new seal check the shaft and see if there is a groove worn in the shaft from the seal lip. If there is try installing the seal in a slightly different position to give the seal a new surface to run on. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
McGrew 460 #14 Posted April 23, 2020 Wanted to post a follow up: The new seal went in without issue, and I can report it has not leaked a drop after using the tractor today. I used the scotch tape trick, and it worked great! Thanks to all who responded. One thing did surprise me though... I had assumed ( we all know what that means..) that all the seals in the transaxle were above the normal full level of oil in the gearbox. Wrong! Figured that out pretty quick when the expensive Mobil 1 synthetic lube leaked all over the floor when I pulled the old seal out.... Live and learn! Danny 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites