Mudrig150 298 #1 Posted April 5, 2020 So we have an L, it's a 1946. Been sitting for 25+ years with water in the engine. Let's just say she didn't take kindly to that and is totally locked up tight. Tight as in, hitting the piston with a hammer and denting the top and not budging it at all. Tight as in there's more rust below the piston then above, but that's not saying much because 25+ years of water on top of a piston is known to not exactly make an engine look good. I uh, emptied over a gallon of water from the crankcase. The rod's been broke before (not from low oil, but because it failed), someone brazed it back together, and I really don't want to run it with a brazed rod. The transmission is very much free, can't seem to get it to go into and kind of gear, it just kind of locks the handles. But, I think that maybe a K161 or K181 swap might just be in the near future for the ol crap bucket. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,403 #2 Posted April 5, 2020 (edited) Drill some holes into the piston, the area for the wrist pin is the strongest part, stay off center or you could go to deep and drill into the connecting rod. From the direction the engine rotates you should be able to figure the layout of the hidden wrist pin, you do not havee to drill through the hardened pin, over the top and near the sides of it. Then a few more random holes. Once the piston has been sufficiently weakened break it up letting the pieces fall into the crankcase. Edited April 5, 2020 by bcgold Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #3 Posted April 5, 2020 Welp, a bigger wrench was applied and I kind of got it loose, although the rod did break again. Engine is completely destroyed on the inside, there are gear teeth in everything and all the surfaces are horribly scored from the metal particles. Crank is bent from getting the engine loose and the bottom of the jug is ruined from when the rod broke in half the first time. Everything is wet, oily, and rusted something awful... This engine is definitely not salvageable. I wish it was, but sitting for 25+ years with water in it took a huge toll on the condition on the internals... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #4 Posted April 5, 2020 Hm. I think an 8 hp briggs looks good on it, I just need to find one that is a 3/4" shaft. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stepney 2,325 #5 Posted April 7, 2020 You are going much too hard on the machine. It didn't seize overnight. I've saved much worse before. Before you started mashing it to bits, fill it up with diesel fuel, or a 50/50 mix of ATF/Acetone. Give it time. The T engine shares oil with the transaxle so everything in there will likely be just as rough as the engine itself. The T head is 3x the engine any B&S will be, and I'm not even sure, due to how the crank is on a Gravely, the B&S could even work. Sort the bearings in the lower end, overhaul or replace the jug, and add a new rod. She'll be good as new. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #6 Posted April 10, 2020 On 4/7/2020 at 5:20 PM, Stepney said: You are going much too hard on the machine. It didn't seize overnight. I've saved much worse before. Before you started mashing it to bits, fill it up with diesel fuel, or a 50/50 mix of ATF/Acetone. Give it time. The T engine shares oil with the transaxle so everything in there will likely be just as rough as the engine itself. The T head is 3x the engine any B&S will be, and I'm not even sure, due to how the crank is on a Gravely, the B&S could even work. Sort the bearings in the lower end, overhaul or replace the jug, and add a new rod. She'll be good as new. Luckily the oil lines are all broke off so the transmission looks good inside. I pulled the oil filter and drained the trans and there was little rust and the only real concern with the transmission is the sludge. Transmission is well and salvageable, it shifts into both gears fine, the PTO now engages after freeing up the stuck lever, and the range lever works. The transmission is good, but I can't say as much for the engine. I attempted to get the block apart, but no luck. I did some investigation and pretty much every internal part of the engine is tore up from the exhaust camshaft gear breaking apart... The crank and rod are pretty well beat and it'll need almost every part replaced, from either rust damage, freeze cracking, or the damage from the exploded exhaust camshaft gear. I honestly have way too much to deal with right now to rebuild the original engine, and I can also just buy another L, for the extra torque, but this L has some family history and I want to make it a fun project. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHNJ701 4,165 #7 Posted April 10, 2020 I got an international lb engine. it's seized up and has been sitting in kerosene and pb blaster for about the last year and half. figure I will wait another year before I start freeing it up. you probably should have just unbolted the engine and set it aside and just added your replacement engine 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stepney 2,325 #8 Posted April 11, 2020 1 hour ago, jabelman said: I got an international lb engine. it's seized up and has been sitting in kerosene and pb blaster for about the last year and half. figure I will wait another year before I start freeing it up. you probably should have just unbolted the engine and set it aside and just added your replacement engine Amen... An LB? Nothing will stop that old chunk of iron. I've had several. Yours a 3-5 or a 1.5-2.5? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #9 Posted April 19, 2020 So, I was looking over the engine, almost every part is freeze cracked. I might have sourced a couple briggs with 3/4" cranks for it. We'll see. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
