Can you mix conventional and synthetic oil in hydro?

[Charrie 18]

We bought a 1994 520H last summer. The PO said the fluids and filters had just been changed. We have only used the tractor about 5 to 7 hours total. The rear right axle shaft seal is leaking slightly and over the winter some leaked put as i can see it on the ground. The problem is that I have no idea what type of oil was used last time they changed it.

We need to cut the yard and I was hoping that we could just add some conventional 10w 30 for now.  The right tire leaks down in a couple of days so we were hoping to order new tires and the the wheel seal and at that time change out the oil while changing the seal.

  What do you think?  

I read for automotive that mixing the two is not a problem but have no idea about this hydro

Maybe I am checking it wrong... Over night the mower deck leaks down and with the engine off and cold, the oil level is just barely over the full line. I started the engine, raised the mower deck, and moved the tractor back and forth a couple of feet a couple of times and checked the oil level with the engine running and the break on. The oil does not even touch the tip of the dipstick with the engine running.

 

I have 5 quarts of Motorcraft 10w-30 synthetic blend and 5 quarts of conventional 10w-30 as well as both the engine filter and the hydro filter

 

Wiping the dip stick between my thumb and for finger, the oil appears to be clear but when wiped on a white paper towel, it has a slight conventional oil/tanish color but not as dark as most conventional oil is.

 

Thanks

Charrie

 

 

[pfrederi 17,875]

Welcome.  There should be no problem.  Conventional. Blended or Synthetic they will mix no problem.

[Charrie 18]

Thank you Pfrederi!  What about checking the oil level in the hydro? The manual says to:

Check before each use.

Dipstick is marked for Cold oil.

Oil level should remain between F and L

Never operate above or below F or L

ECT

But nothing about the oil not touching the dip stick once the engine is running and the tractor has been moved.

 

In other words if I go out right now and check the oil level without starting the engine, it will show full.

If i start the engine and move the tractor, set the brake, raise the seat, and check the oil, it isn't touching the dipstick.

 

Yes the seat switch is disconnected!

 

Thanks

Charrie

 

 

[The Tuul Crib 7,337]

TO 

 

[953 nut 55,773]

1 hour ago, Charrie said:

I go out right now and check the oil level without starting the engine, it will show full.

If i start the engine and move the tractor, set the brake, raise the seat, and check the oil, it isn't touching the dipstick.

When the engine is running and the pump is circulating the oil in the system the level will go down, after you shut it down the oil slowly drains back into the transaxle. The Eaton transaxles are known to have a slight delay when first started because the oil needs to be put in circulation for about 30 seconds.

[WHX?? 49,162]

I welcomed you in your other post but again 

Paul's & Richard's advice is sound but I would top it off with whatever 1030 you have on hand but then change it again after a season.  Guys here and I like any quality syn 1030. Seems to be best in colder weather. NAPA 1410 on the filter. All of my 520s have a different sound and act differently. 

Jack the rear end up and check the play in the out board axle bearing. If ok just replace the seal. Hard part might be getting the hub off if need to just replace the seal... yer on yer own ther... just kidding we can help. 

[Charrie 18]

Ok, Thanks guys for all of the help. It should be safe to run as is. I am thinking  I should change both axle seals while i am at it since i will be right there with all the tools and fresh experience on the right side!   I will have both the wheels off to change the tires. Gee I cant believe the price of these little tractor tires.

Thanks

Charrie

[WHX?? 49,162]

Actually we think the prices are pretty good all things  considered. Many  a thread & discussion been done on ag selection here. Billy @WVHillbilly520Hwhere's that thread when you need it?!?!

[Charrie 18]

5 minutes ago, WHX24 said:

I welcomed you in your other post but again 

Paul's & Richard's advice is sound but I would top it off with whatever 1030 you have on hand but then change it again after a season.  Guys here and I like any quality syn 1030. Seems to be best in colder weather. NAPA 1410 on the filter. All of my 520s have a different sound and act differently. 

Jack the rear end up and check the play in the out board axle bearing. If ok just replace the seal. Hard part might be getting the hub off if need to just replace the seal... yer on yer own ther... just kidding we can help. 

 

Thanks WHX24. You mentioned the "out board axle bearings", are they bad about going out? From what I understand about the tractor is that the PO bought it brand new in 1994 and always had a shop to do all the work on it yearly as well as any other problems that might have come up.  If the hour meter is correct, then it has 706 hours on the machine. The old Charger 12 we had growing up never had any problems except we had to rebuild the engine once. Other than that, it just went on and on and on!

[WVHillbilly520H 10,374]

1 minute ago, WHX24 said:

Actually we think the prices are pretty good all things  considered. Many  a thread & discussion been done on ag selection here. Billy @WVHillbilly520Hwhere's that thread when you need it?!?!

 

[WVHillbilly520H 10,374]

3 hours ago, Charrie said:

We bought a 1994 520H last summer. The PO said the fluids and filters had just been changed. We have only used the tractor about 5 to 7 hours total. The rear right axle shaft seal is leaking slightly and over the winter some leaked put as i can see it on the ground. The problem is that I have no idea what type of oil was used last time they changed it.

 

I have 5 quarts of Motorcraft 10w-30 synthetic blend and 5 quarts of conventional 10w-30 as well as both the engine filter and the hydro filter

 

Wiping the dip stick between my thumb and for finger, the oil appears to be clear but when wiped on a white paper towel, it has a slight conventional oil/tanish color but not as dark as most conventional oil is.

 

Thanks

Charrie

 

 

I run synthetic blended in (Castrol GTX Hi Milage in my 520 hydros without issue... And don't worry about the deck dropping overnight my first 520 was bought new and and would leak down as well.

[WHX?? 49,162]

Just lift the tractor up and see if there's any up and down play in the outboard Axle bearing. Kinda uncommon for 1100's but ya never know. 1/16" is ok but 1/8 yer in trouble. If tight the seal can just be replaced without having to split. There will be a plastic thrust washer between the hub and case if that got ripped up it maybe causing the leak.

I wrapped a cable around that once pulling stumps  but careful disection of the mangled thrust washer cured the leak. Some day when I get the hair I will pull the hub to replace the washer and seal.  We don't  consider pulling hubs or steering wheels as quality shop time  around here. 

Edited April 4, 2020 by WHX24

[lynnmor 7,354]

I have three 520H tractors and found that the Castrol GTX Hi Mileage oil mentioned above made a noticeable difference in performance. 

 

If a tractor is unused for a long time, I have had them pee on the floor and couldn't figure out why this happened. Just a few days ago I caught one in the act of peeing oil, the oil level was to the top of the dipstick tube and overflowing.  Apparently the pump and/or filter allows oil to drain down over a long time and probably with the help of temperature changes.  After running the tractor for just a minute the oil level was correct.  I think it might be a good idea to always run the tractor and move it and the lift before shutting it off and then check oil level after a few minutes to allow it to settle. 

 

I use the 1410 NAPA filter without the anti drain-back valve, I believe the Wheel Horse filter has none as well.