ClassicTractorProfessor 5,314 #1 Posted March 26, 2020 After much debating, I have decided to build a two seater two steering wheel tractor for the kids and I to ride on around the yard and in parades and such. The shop I work at is still open, but business has been extremely slow the past week or so, so last night Krystopher and I loaded up the tractor and I took it to work with me. Have access to a welder over there so maybe I can make some progress on this during the slow time. My plan is to attach a wide bar across the seat spring on the rear, moving the driver's seat to the left side of the tractor, and adding another one for a passenger on the right side. Also planning on putting full running boards like on the newer models as well for more operator and passenger comfort. Where this is going to get tricky is in the steering. I've got a couple ideas of how to offset the steering system to the left side, but not sure how exactly I'm going to do that yet. Also thinking about rigging up a hand clutch in place of the existing foot pedal, might be easier for the boys to operate. Tractor currently has a 3.75 HP Briggs off an old gas powered air compressor on it, but that will probably get swapped out for a 6 HP Predator sometime in the future. If I get a chance tomorrow I'm going to try and make a video explaining what I want to do in detail to share with y'all 5 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,228 #2 Posted March 26, 2020 With a welder and some emagination nothing is impossible. You may want to consider a centrifugal clutch rather than a hand operated. Good luck. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,867 #3 Posted March 26, 2020 Awesome Bryce! I imagine the seats mounted on the center spring might feel a little wonky if the two riders aren’t close in weight. @Achto used some small coil springs (know anyone in the tool and die business?) on his McLean seat. I feel like along with the seat spring, a couple coils mounted as wide as possible as helpers might do the trick to keep things level. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,571 #4 Posted March 26, 2020 8 minutes ago, pullstart said: @Achto used some small coil springs (know anyone in the tool and die business?) on his McLean seat. To my knowledge those are actually the factory springs on the McLean. Bryce, You may consider making some stand offs from the axle on each side to help support the seat/seats. May be incorporate the fenders in the bottom of the seat some how? Just throwing out ideas. Anxious to see your ideas. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,494 #5 Posted March 26, 2020 I'll be here follerrin' along. Sounds wicked cool... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClassicTractorProfessor 5,314 #7 Posted March 26, 2020 Had to haul a wreck to the body shop in Woodward today, so I stopped by my steel supplier on the way back and $15 later we have a second seat. The 2x4 is only on there just to get an idea of how much spacing I need to clear the tires...payday is tomorrow so will probably make a trip back to the steel supplier and really get rolling on this build sometime next week 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClassicTractorProfessor 5,314 #8 Posted March 27, 2020 12 hours ago, pullstart said: I imagine the seats mounted on the center spring might feel a little wonky if the two riders aren’t close in weight. @Achto used some small coil springs (know anyone in the tool and die business?) on his McLean seat. I feel like along with the seat spring, a couple coils mounted as wide as possible as helpers might do the trick to keep things level. I'm sure you are right, after I set the two seats on the 2x4, I called my buddy I work with to come over and sit on the passenger one while I sat in the other one so I could check the spacing between the seats if I centered them over the tires like I planned. He has a good 40 lbs or so on me and I could definitely feel it shift to his side the minute he sat down. 12 hours ago, Achto said: Bryce, You may consider making some stand offs from the axle on each side to help support the seat/seats. May be incorporate the fenders in the bottom of the seat some how? Just throwing out ideas. Anxious to see your ideas. My plan right now is to build the running boards and fenders into one unit, and by doing this I should have a nice flat surface on top of each fender that I can brace each seat to. Hopefully will be able to get over to Woodward Steel Monday or Tuesday to get some tubing. I've got several projects going, and most have been drug out two years or more, but this one has became a high priority since both boys have found out what I'm doing. Every night they both ask me if the tractor is done yet. 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClassicTractorProfessor 5,314 #9 Posted March 27, 2020 Also curious if anyone knows of anywhere to get steering wheels that are close in size and design to the original 701 wheel (not pictured here as the original fuel tank and wheel are on my 753 until I can get around to fixing the leak in this tank). I am certainly not opposed to buying two wheels in order to get a matched pair. But the closest thing I can find online that looks similar is a new one for a Farmall Cub, A, or B. These wheels measure almost 2 inches bigger than our WH wheels, and I'm afraid they are going to be big enough that they will look out of proportion with the rest of the tractor. May go ahead and order one, if it doesn't work my friend Rodger has been saying for the last 4 years that he needs a new wheel on his B, guess if it doesn't work for me I can always put it on his Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,867 #10 Posted March 27, 2020 13 minutes ago, HandyProfessor said: Also curious if anyone knows of anywhere to get steering wheels that are close in size and design to the original 701 wheel (not pictured here as the original fuel tank and wheel are on my 753 until I can get around to fixing the leak in this tank). I am certainly not opposed to buying two wheels in order to get a matched pair. But the closest thing I can find online that looks similar is a new one for a Farmall Cub, A, or B. These wheels measure almost 2 inches bigger than our WH wheels, and I'm afraid they are going to be big enough that they will look out of proportion with the rest of the tractor. May go ahead and order one, if it doesn't work my friend Rodger has been saying for the last 4 years that he needs a new wheel on his B, guess if it doesn't work for me I can always put it on his Seems there was a site with either a Cub or a Deere wheel with a splined center that was very close not that long ago? The splines could be drilled out to 3/4”. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,867 #11 Posted March 27, 2020 @Lane Ranger posted this: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClassicTractorProfessor 5,314 #12 Posted March 27, 2020 I kept looking after posting this and thing I may have found one. Steiner Tractor has them for the old Cub Cadets. They are the 13" diameter with the 3 bare metal spokes, only difference I see is the center hole is 11/16" 40 spline, but that could easily be drilled to 3/4. Looks to be the same wheel that Lane used in the link you just posted https://www.steinertractor.com/GTS002-Steering-Wheel 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClassicTractorProfessor 5,314 #13 Posted March 27, 2020 Robbed the belt guard off of the 753 last night and mounted it up this morning for mock up purposes. Need to find another one or take this one to someone to use as a pattern and have one made 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,867 #14 Posted March 27, 2020 Do you have floorboards and a fender in mind yet Bryce? If you’re fabbing those up, you might be able to incorporate a belt guard into the right floorboard. Use 1” angle iron to outline the belt in tight form then skin it with sheet stock 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Play 393 #15 Posted March 27, 2020 12 hours ago, HandyProfessor said: I kept looking after posting this and thing I may have found one. Steiner Tractor has them for the old Cub Cadets. They are the 13" diameter with the 3 bare metal spokes, only difference I see is the center hole is 11/16" 40 spline, but that could easily be drilled to 3/4. Looks to be the same wheel that Lane used in the link you just posted https://www.steinertractor.com/GTS002-Steering-Wheel Yes, these wheels are really close to the originals, but the plastic is not as thick and a little rough textured. I have one that's been sitting at a machine shop waiting to be drilled. Only the top half of the hub has the 11/16" splines; the bottom half is just a plain 3/4" diameter. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horse Play 393 #16 Posted March 27, 2020 New Cub wheel on left; original RJ58 wheel on the right. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClassicTractorProfessor 5,314 #17 Posted March 28, 2020 Went to Woodward Steel today and picked up a bunch of 1x1 14ga square tubing for the framework of the running boards/fenders, as well as a piece of 2x2 11ga for the cross piece that the seats are going to sit on. Was hoping to get some welding done but had to leave the shop to work a bad 2 vehicle accident south of the shop and was gone most of the afternoon. Hope to be able to get some work and show you all some progress tomorrow. I did draw up a rough sketch of what the fender and running boards are going to be, the frame will be built entirely out of the 1x1 and then covered with sheet metal. If all goes well I hope to have one side framed tomorrow 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,867 #18 Posted March 28, 2020 I hope everyone made it out ok... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,228 #19 Posted March 28, 2020 21 hours ago, HandyProfessor said: Need to find another one or take this one to someone to use as a pattern and have one made I made up a built guard once with a couple pieces of angle iron from a bed frame and a scrap piece of 20 gauge flat steel. Nothing fancy but it worked. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClassicTractorProfessor 5,314 #20 Posted March 29, 2020 Spent a few hours at the shop today, and made some progress on this build. Got both running board frames built and mounted on the tractor, as well as the mount for the seats. Changed my mind about the design a little bit, was originally going to make full fenders over the rear tires, as well as a bit of a fender behind the front wheels as well. Decided to not go with anything behind the fronts and only do half fenders in front of the rears. Going to get some more metal first part of this week and try to get those built. The seats are just sitting on it in these pictures, one thing we don't have at work is a drill press, so I brought the whole seat assembly over to my shop to drill the bolt holes 2 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClassicTractorProfessor 5,314 #21 Posted March 29, 2020 Ordered a second steering wheel from Steiner Tractor tonight as well Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,867 #22 Posted March 29, 2020 @HandyProfessor just to be clear, you will have some vertical guard in front of the tire? When I was building Frank, I was reminded of the pinch point danger between a flat foot rest and the rear tires. Someone mentioned a little girl at a show getting her foot pulled in and the time it took to help her back to safety. Just a good idea to keep little feet in mind looks good! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClassicTractorProfessor 5,314 #23 Posted March 29, 2020 Yes the fenders will be integrated into the running boards. Have to get some more metal and really need to look into getting a new chop saw...that poor old Black & Decker has seen better days. I'm almost afraid to use it to cut the angles needed to build the fenders 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,867 #24 Posted March 29, 2020 I’ve come to liking a carbide tipped sawzall blade in the shop. They seem to last very long! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClassicTractorProfessor 5,314 #25 Posted March 29, 2020 I'm looking at this particular saw...$350 is a lot to spend on a saw, but in my opinion these are the only way to go...no heat generated by cutting, virtually no burrs to clean off, and absolutely zero blade deflection like you see with an abrasive type saw. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites