Pullstart 62,912 #76 Posted March 25, 2020 These bricks were laying in the bottom of the weight box, topped with flat rocks. I stood them up and will add an old lathe vice and a Duramax flywheel in the center. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,912 #77 Posted March 25, 2020 3 minutes ago, bds1984 said: I don't think the governor adjustment is all that different than a Kohler as long as it isn't an air-vane set-up. Maybe the spring needs a little less tension on it and the idle speed bumped up a little bit (ut maybe that part is from a dirty/compromised fuel system). Cool deal. I tossed some sea foam in the tank the other night too. I’ll run the whole fuel system dry then inspect it. There’s a new electric fuel pump under the seat. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,912 #78 Posted March 25, 2020 Ok now. Is there anything other than a ring problem that could cause this much blow by on a flat surface? The oil level was actually just under full on the dipstick. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tractorhead 9,064 #79 Posted March 25, 2020 Cool Video about the Loader, looks it works great. 👍 but you Oil mist problem Seems to me pistonrings or Valveseals are done. did you pull for a short Testrun the Oil dipstick to verify the pressure out of Crankcase? Because the oil mist was much more visible under stronger engine load, i be nearly sure that the pistonrings are worn out. More Pressure on Piston whilst load results in more pressure in crankcase. I would verify that firstly with a removed dipstick, if oilmist is happen the same ammount on intake, the Trouble will happens from the Valve side if oilmist is nearly non, or if it blows by the missing Dipstick, piston or pistonrings are the cause. Depending on hours, the engine has, check the side gap of Piston, if that is ok, i would give it a try by simply crosshatching the cylinder and refitting the piston with only new rings. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,926 #80 Posted March 25, 2020 Since the engine appears to have been worked on, any chance the breathers were assembled wrong? I would check that first. Also, I have read that it is possible to flip a vertical Briggs for use horizontally, any chance that was done? Does the oil smell like gas at all? I'm not sure how to bypass the original pulse pump when using an electric pump, but if the pulse hose is still hooked up or the electric pump is overpowering the needle and float you could be filling the crankcase with gas which would cause the smoking as well as the miss. I have no idea how many hours are on mine but it only smokes a little on startup. I usually have to clean the plugs at least once during the summer as they do get fouled. Other than that it's a great running engine. Bill 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,912 #81 Posted March 25, 2020 22 minutes ago, Bill D said: Since the engine appears to have been worked on, any chance the breathers were assembled wrong? I would check that first. Also, I have read that it is possible to flip a vertical Briggs for use horizontally, any chance that was done? Does the oil smell like gas at all? I'm not sure how to bypass the original pulse pump when using an electric pump, but if the pulse hose is still hooked up or the electric pump is overpowering the needle and float you could be filling the crankcase with gas which would cause the smoking as well as the miss. I have no idea how many hours are on mine but it only smokes a little on startup. I usually have to clean the plugs at least once during the summer as they do get fouled. Other than that it's a great running engine. Bill I just drained the oil and got out more than the 3 pint recommendation in the manual. Concerned that I did not clean the air filter well, I am replacing that along with fresh oil. Between possibly over filling it when I added Lucas treatment and the filter creating a big vacuum on the crankcase, this is all easy to understand how it could happen. I’ll mark the dipstick at “full” according to the manual. It’s a great time to add those new spark plugs too The oil did not smell like fuel at all and seemed to have plenty of lubricity like oil should. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,912 #83 Posted March 25, 2020 I’m putting the new Husky tool set to use. I normally carry tools back and forth between barns, forgetting where I put them. Since these little sets have a place for everything and everything in it’s place, it helps an OOOO SHINEY! distractable guy like me to stay a bit more organized! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,912 #84 Posted March 25, 2020 @Bill D I will also pull the intake and check the crank case breathers out too. Great idea! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,926 #85 Posted March 25, 2020 Pull the front head and have a look in at least one cylinder. Check the compression. It may top out at 60 psi each, but it should be even. Of you want to pm me your phone number we can talk over the situation some more. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tractorhead 9,064 #86 Posted March 25, 2020 Oh, that sound good. i ain‘t imaging an possible overfill of Engineoil. Good point change and fill only as much as needed. Even changing the clogged filter Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,926 #87 Posted March 25, 2020 If you pull the breathers check the valve clearance. If you lost a valve seat the valve clearance might be your first clue. Bill 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,666 #88 Posted March 25, 2020 If that briggs has aluminm block with out cast iron sleeves. I would guess the cylinders have worn ege shaped. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,912 #89 Posted March 25, 2020 I refilled the oil per the manual and re-marked the dipstick. I had it to the top of the crosshatch. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tractorhead 9,064 #90 Posted March 25, 2020 Is this the original dipstick or a replace ? I wonder about the marks in the lower side, so on my known engines this are the min/max values. is there another min max mak on it, except the both crossed marks on the end? 😳 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,912 #91 Posted March 25, 2020 10 minutes ago, Tractorhead said: Is this the original dipstick or a replace ? I wonder about the marks in the lower side, so on my known engines this are the min/max values. is there another min max mak on it, except the both crossed marks on the end? 😳 I have no idea if this is the factory dipstick or not. I spoke with @Bill D on the phone and he pointed out things on this engine that makes him believe things have been replaced before. Either way, I know now where full should be according to the manual. I put this back together with fresh spark plugs and fresh oil. I replaced 2 oz oil with 2 oz Seafoam. This video shows this guy adding it to his Ford Ranger farm truck and the difference it made... so I’m giving it s shot. It’s also in the fuel system. At initial startup with the air breather off, there is just a bit of smoke from the vent tubes and none from the exhaust. After a minute or two it begins smoking more and even out of the exhaust. Bill also mentioned pulling one plug wire at a time while it’s running and listen for any difference in tune between the front and rear cylinders. It still runs on either cylinder, but a much different tone comes from each one. I’ll run it for a while with that seafoam inside and see if anything changes. Next will be a compression check. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tractorhead 9,064 #92 Posted March 25, 2020 To be honest, i ain‘t a friend of „repair chemicals“ because my experiences with it is, it is just a shorttime solution, so maybe it is better than my experiences - cool but i doubt. As of your answer, the blue smoke comes just after a few minutes runnin time, it seems to improves once more my first far diagnosis. ( i know a far diagnisis is nothing, but sometimes maybe better than nothing.) Glass cylinder and/ or worn Pistonrings. If engine is cold good gap is given between pistonrings and Cylinderwall, so engine runs nearly without oilmist, Engine runs a while cylinders heats up, enlarges their size, gap increases to wide, oil will be sucked like a pump into combustion chamber and burns. This can also be given if just the cylinder is glas surfaced (no useful crosshatch) and pistonrings still useful. I had this on several longterm Engines in the past, even on my OM314 from my Truck i reworked in 2009 that also can caused from mismaintened in the past, but whatsever the reason is, pull one head, set this piston to bdc and check cylinderwalls. I think i showed you the picts before This where the old pistons i pulled, cylinder was glossy but round is given within tolerance A new Piston After the reworked crosshatch after that rework i have no measurable oilconsumpt further, until now ( a friend of mine has bought it.) This was not the only, but my best documentated rework of an Engine. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cschannuth 3,816 #93 Posted March 25, 2020 2 hours ago, pullstart said: I refilled the oil per the manual and re-marked the dipstick. I had it to the top of the crosshatch. If you need any pictures or information off mine, I’m pretty sure everything is still original (except the starter and seat pan) because dad bought it when it was one-year-old back in 78 from the neighbor who bought it new. Just let me know. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,981 #94 Posted March 25, 2020 I am a strong believer in sea foam. I had a truck with the same problem, lifters chattering . I added sea foam to the crankcase and after 100 miles I changed the oil and never had another lifter sound load at all. I think it removes all the deposits that oil leaves in the engine. And it works great at cleaning the resin deposits from gas. Especially from ethanol. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,926 #95 Posted March 25, 2020 Any video of it running when you pulled the plug wire from each cylinder? Depending on the results of the compression test it's probably time to pull the heads and look in the cylinders. Breathers could still be bad resulting in hi crankcase pressure. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,912 #96 Posted March 25, 2020 54 minutes ago, Bill D said: Any video of it running when you pulled the plug wire from each cylinder? Depending on the results of the compression test it's probably time to pull the heads and look in the cylinders. Breathers could still be bad resulting in hi crankcase pressure. It didn’t run long enough to pull the wires... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,926 #97 Posted March 25, 2020 I'm running out of ideas. It may be time for an engine swap. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,308 #98 Posted March 25, 2020 4 minutes ago, Bill D said: I'm running out of ideas. It may be time for an engine swap. Without ever doing a compression test? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,912 #99 Posted March 25, 2020 I just pressurized the back cylinder with a quick shot of air. Oil shot out the breather. The back plug is black after just minutes of run time. I believe @Tractorhead Stefan might be on to the rings idea. I will pull the engine and yank heads for bench inspection. thanks everyone! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites