GT 14 transmission leak...near filter

[stevasaurus 22,865]

I think I see a crack at about 11:00 on the edge of that bearing.  It almost looks like someone tried to soldier it.  

 

If that is the case, be very careful here.  Get to where you can work on it...ie...take off the filter, wheel, hub.  Take a small screwdriver (we would call it a tweaker) an scratch away the paint.  The cap and the bearing race are one piece, the end of your needle bearing are right where that crack appears to be.  When you go to put JB Weld on there, try not to push any of it inside of the crack...you will get some on the bearings.  

[lynnmor 7,354]

19 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

I think I see a crack at about 11:00 on the edge of that bearing.  It almost looks like someone tried to soldier it.  

 

If you look at the shiny surface at the 6:00 position, it appears to be flat as it should be.  If you look at the same surface at 11:00, it appears to be distorted.  If that is the case, that bearing is toast.

[Tractorhead 9,065]

You‘re right @stevasaurus & @lynnmor at a closer look it seem so, but it‘s hard to say on that Pict.

 

To clear where it spills or dribbs i think, is doing a video while running

i.eg at the Pull tests with a focused highres Actioncam, 

so it could be seen where the oil dribbs.

 

But i still believe this is the weak point.

 

before JBWelding, i would try to place a small round plastic cap,

or a Rubbercap, that covers and protects the Bearinghousing.

So no JB Weld can contaminate and destroy your Bearing .

 

 

 

Edited March 23, 2020 by Tractorhead

[Sailman 1,294]

Well I just saw the last several posts and appreciate the info. However, I had already gone at the tractor today with the JB weld idea...I cleaned it real good with a dremel and satinless steel wheel, acetone. Took everything including the cap and surrounding cast down to metal. Did not see anything unusual like a crack in the cap or distortions, just paint chips. Put the JB weld over the surface and overlapped onto the casting but did not try to force any into the cracks. The fluid had been leaking from the left side and lower part of the cap. Just looked like it was leaking around the cap.

We shall see!! Life is an adventure right???

[Sailman 1,294]

Considered the suggestions to put a rubber cap over the leak but the bearing cap is flush with the engine casting so nothing to attach it to. Also not too worried about JB weld getting into the transmission as the leak around the bearing cap was small and did not try to force any into the crack. Even with the transmission drained and the filter off it continued to weep out of the filter port so cant imagine the JB Weld sticking to anything inside with all that ATF fuid coating bearings, etc. This is first coat of JB weld. Had drained and filtered ATF fluid with NO METAL so keeping my fingers crossed.

[Sailman 1,294]

Here is second coat of JB Weld. Refilled ATF and no weeping, but have not run engine yet. Will have rim welded and new tire on this week and will give it the driving test to see how it works.

[ZXT 2,401]

3 minutes ago, Sailman said:

Here is second coat of JB Weld. Refilled ATF and no weeping, but have not run engine yet. Will have rim welded and new tire on this week and will give it the driving test to see how it works.

 

Excellent! Assuming you got the area you JB welded good and clean (though the area round it looks rather oily), I can't imagine it leaking from there any more. Glad to hear that there was no glitter in the trans oil. Looks like you'll be back in business soon!

[Sailman 1,294]

Area with the JB Weld was thoroughly scuffed, all paint removed and acetone wiped. Clean as a babys.......

you get the point.

Double coat for strength.

Thanks!

[stevasaurus 22,865]

Excellent job there...I just keep thinking of the guy that has to change out that bearing sooner or later.  I wonder if just, after you cleaned the area like you did, if a little spar varnish might have done the same thing.  Just thinking.  

[pfrederi 17,874]

Flap wheel and die grinder will take the JBWeld off fairly quickly then it could be pushed out from the inside...Easier than the poor dumb SOB who winds up with my Charger 12 that has an alloy steel set screw snapped off flush with the hub

[Sailman 1,294]

I already figured on a repair next winter if need be. The JB weld can be removed easily with a die grinder if I have to go that route.

[Sailman 1,294]

Whoo Hoo the GT 14 runs great! Plenty of pull and smooth operating transmission. Brings back old memories....

Only issue is idler pulley on main belt seems to be hitting on the rear fender. Makes a racket with belt guard on. I measured the spool and it is 1 inch from rim to rim. Seems too big. Belt is 5/8 and does not look like pulley can be moved any closer. Is this the wrong size pulley? Any ideas?

Thanks!

[ZXT 2,401]

Did you take that video with a toaster? 

 

In all seriousness though, it looks like it runs and drives good as it should. Any sign of it leaking since the repair? If it doesn't leak, I'd call it good. If the bearing were bad, I can't see it ever wearing a hole in the end of the bearing cap. More likely, it would just "machine" the rollers out and the metal would kill the trans. Bearing wear would cause side to side play, not end play. 

 

A little red paint and you'll be good to go!

Edited April 3, 2020 by ZXT

[Sailman 1,294]

No leaks. Repair is solid. My wife took the video....looks like from a camera the same age as the wheel horse.

[953 nut 55,772]

9 hours ago, Sailman said:

looks like from a camera the same age as the wheel horse

It did look a bit like a grainey old move from the '60s                  Glad it is running and driving well.          

[Herder 2,354]

I am throwing my hat into the ring a bit late here so I apologize for that.  Anyway your not alone on this one, I have recently made some repair to the final-drive on my GT-14 and removed the entire unit from the tractor and in doing so I noticed that the previous owner had used some type of sealer over the bearing caps.  It was the first time that I had seen this and decided to leave it alone.  Currently they are not leaking.    

[Sailman 1,294]

Seems to be  reasonable fix for just a leak. Time will tell if there are other issues but not expecting any. Good luck with yours too. I have a question for GT 14 owners. 

Is the 1 inch idler pulley correct? Its actually hitting on the fender. Have pulled fender out as far as possible and the idler pulley arm is in as tight to the tractor as it can be. Looks like the pulley is too wide. What is the width on your GT 14 idler pulley? GT 14 owners?

I do want to replace the spring to put better tension on the pulley. Any suggestion where to purchase the spring?

[ZXT 2,401]

2 minutes ago, Sailman said:

Seems to be  reasonable fix for just a leak. Time will tell if there are other issues but not expecting any. Good luck with yours too. I have a question for GT 14 owners. 

Is the 1 inch idler pulley correct? Its actually hitting on the fender. Have pulled fender out as far as possible and the idler pulley arm is in as tight to the tractor as it can be. Looks like the pulley is too wide. What is the width on your GT 14 idler pulley? GT 14 owners?

I do want to replace the spring to put better tension on the pulley. Any suggestion where to purchase the spring?

I'll have to measure the pulley on mine the next time I'm near it, but IIRC, it looked to be around 1". I know mine likes to throw the belt due to the fact that the bushings on the shaft that holds the idler pulley is wallered out. What kind of shape is yours in? If it's worn out, I could see the pulley being cocked to one side and rubbing the cover.

[953 nut 55,772]

10 minutes ago, Sailman said:

Is the 1 inch idler pulley correct?

Mine measures just a touch over 5/8" wide.    

[Sailman 1,294]

Thanks for the replies! The shaft for the pulley is good, no wallered out. Pulley runs smooth. All seems in good shape and it could use a new spring, still it is holding enough tension...BUT...953 Nut states his is 5/8 which would make sense and SHOULD be right given the 5/8 belt. I think someone put a 1 inch pulley on this tractor which just does not have enough room without dragging on the fender. It even has worn the rim down on the pulley where it is grinding on the fender.

 

Anyone know where i can get the correct 5/8 pulley and a new spring?

[Sailman 1,294]

Have a new correct pulley coming. Just using the other with belt guard off. Got the GT 14 working well. No leaks from transmission. Hydro pulls strong. Had a front wheel get galled to the spindle. Big job getting it off but keeping it well greased now. Plan to use it to pull some small stumps but also important work with grand kids (see picture)! Does anyone know if a C100 series mower would work on the GT 14?

[Sailman 1,294]

Meant to say a mower on a C-100 (not sure of mower model number). Will it work on the GT 14? Seems like the mule drive might be different. Any experts out there care to comment? Have a C-100 for sale local (man these things are addictive!!) with a mower but would be nicer to have it on the GT 14 with the hydro.

[ZXT 2,401]

39 minutes ago, Sailman said:

Meant to say a mower on a C-100 (not sure of mower model number). Will it work on the GT 14? Seems like the mule drive might be different. Any experts out there care to comment? Have a C-100 for sale local (man these things are addictive!!) with a mower but would be nicer to have it on the GT 14 with the hydro.

The mule drive is different. GT-14's didn't use the tach-a-matic like the C series does. It can be adapted to work but it isn't a direct bolt on. I've not done it to mine ( need to find a deck first) but try searching and you will probably find some info on the conversion.

[Sailman 1,294]

Is there a dedicated mower for the GT 14? Seems there is a side mount mule drive for that one? Pretty rare bird I suspect.

[953 nut 55,772]

15 minutes ago, Sailman said:

Is there a dedicated mower for the GT 14? Seems there is a side mount mule drive for that one? Pretty rare bird I suspect.